Car won't stay idling...

Well.. I still haven't worked out all the quirks since i replaced the motor.. with my stock N* LQ4 MAF table with the 10% added across the board just like i had it before.. I go to start my car.. and it starts up and purrs like a kitten at 1k rpms.. It slowly climbs to 1500rpms (on its own) and than it hangs there for a second. and than it slowly falls down to 1000 rpms and than keeps dropping to 900 than 800 than lower to 700 and 600 and until it dies.. this all happens in about a 10 second period.. HOWEVER when i ad fuel across the board like a lot.. 25% on top of my 10% it will idle.. KINDA... it runs ok but my LTFTs and my STFTs are WAY off like pegged at 16.41 and 20.31 but its running ridiculously rich ( i can tell by the smell of the exhaust.) I have no more exhaust leak before the O2 sensor as far as i know.. i took the headers off and put in new Manfold gaskets and sealed it really good.. I have looked for vac leaks.. BUT only visually i have not broke out the carb cleaner yet... i was thinking maybe the IAC... maybe? what do i need to do to clean that? any more ideas? i want to go fast again

IMHO you should start with the stock tables for the motor you installed, then with a can of starting fluid spray find the intake/vac leak(s).

RPMs are dropping as the engine warms up, of course.

Think about why the donor car was in the junkyard in the first place, to get hints about what to look for. If donor car was not wrecked then look for an engine problem that'd frustrate an owner enough to trade/junk the car. If it was wrecked then look for a remove/reinstall anomaly or error--AFTER going back to stock tables. Do not be surprised if the problem has little or nothing to do with what you touched to do the install. If it climbs to 1500 RPMs on a warm start, I wonder if you have a flaky temp sensor or some such.

Also - after the reinstall did you do a CASE learn?

Albertj

albertj wrote:

IMHO you should start with the stock tables for the motor you installed, then with a can of starting fluid spray find the intake/vac leak(s).

RPMs are dropping as the engine warms up, of course.

Think about why the donor car was in the junkyard in the first place, to get hints about what to look for. If donor car was not wrecked then look for an engine problem that'd frustrate an owner enough to trade/junk the car. If it was wrecked then look for a remove/reinstall anomaly or error--AFTER going back to stock tables. Do not be surprised if the problem has little or nothing to do with what you touched to do the install. If it climbs to 1500 RPMs on a warm start, I wonder if you have a flaky temp sensor or some such.

Also - after the reinstall did you do a CASE learn?

Albertj

No i did not do a CASE learn.. The only difference in the motor that i put in is that it has 9.4:1 compression VS 8.5:1 compression...

I do not remember if the engines have identically shaped camshafts.

Please consider setting the tables to stock for the motor, and doing a CASE learn.

albertj wrote:

I do not remember if the engines have identically shaped camshafts.

Please consider setting the tables to stock for the motor, and doing a CASE learn.

Ill read up on case learns, yes the camshafts are the same! I cannot put the stock MAF on because i have an Aftermarket Lq4 and a N* TB..

Thank you for the help so far!!! i will go do some of the suggested things now

You also want to make sure your mixtures are adjusted properly for E85. I have no idea what the main differences are.

What you described above to me, sounds like when I was having fuel pump issues on a carbeurated car - it would start ok, run normal if a bit rich, then rev up as it started going lean (running out of fuel) before dying. How's your fuel pressure through all this?

deekster_caddy wrote:

You also want to make sure your mixtures are adjusted properly for E85. I have no idea what the main differences are.

What you described above to me, sounds like when I was having fuel pump issues on a carbeurated car - it would start ok, run normal if a bit rich, then rev up as it started going lean (running out of fuel) before dying. How's your fuel pressure through all this?

hmm i'm gonna change my fuel filter.. every time i have an issue like this i change the fuel filter and bam no problems.. BRB.. i stocked up on WIX part 33263

Wow... My powrtuner is being the gay.. BUT after putting a new fuel filter on it runs like a CHAMP.. total 360 on how it was acting before. unfortunately my scanning feature on my powrtuner is acting up so i can't scan for LTFT or STFT's... soooooo ya... any idea's on that? showing a 2021(or close to this) code and it says "severity:1" hmm i restarted my laptop and still no dice.. any help on the powrtuner issue?

I used PowrTuner scan package for about 1/2 day... sorry, worst scanner EVER!

What do you use to Scan then ?????

Good ol' AutoTap - love it.

This question has probably already been asked but, does Autotap still make scanners.???
Never mind, just Googled Autotap and found my answer.

Anyone know where i can download UVscan? need it like NOW please and thanks you!

Travis I can send you UVscan, but if you look on the DHP forum there are links to some older versions of it. Shoot me an email.

Is that Vista? It says ALL OVER the DHP forum not to use Vista with PT.

deekster_caddy wrote:

Is that Vista? It says ALL OVER the DHP forum not to use Vista with PT.

I have no choice but to use vista.. it has worked for 3 months without ANY flaws..

I don't have your email... could you email it to me at

holmtransamws6@yahoo.com

Thanks DEEK!!!!!

DEEK.. i'm getting this error message each time i try to open the program.. it says "Error loading CONFIG table"

that is says there was an issue running the program and it needs to stop.. LAME

IDK, it just worked for me.

Did you run 'install.bat'?

deekster_caddy wrote:

IDK, it just worked for me.

Did you run 'install.bat'?

got it to work!!! thank you deek

one more difference.. BEFORE detonation of my old motor.. i had the plugs gapped at .055 and now i have them at .045 COULD this cause a harder start issue and idling issue.. and when i stand behind my car at idle the exhaust pop's.. not loud but a mild tone .. pop.pop.pop....pop..pop you get the idea...

It could, a little. Actually, I don't think it would. You'd also have a lot of misfires. I used to notice a popping like that when I had dirty injectors.

How are your LTFTs at idle?

deekster_caddy wrote:

It could, a little. Actually, I don't think it would. You'd also have a lot of misfires. I used to notice a popping like that when I had dirty injectors.

How are your LTFTs at idle?

They are still a little wacky

They are normally pegged... BUT i got the STFT's to setlle from .7 to 2.3% right now

STFTs will always get small when the LTFTs get stable. It takes STFTs to make LTFTs... so once the LTFTs stabilize, the STFTs should get very small.

In other words, your STFTs are correcting the LTFT.

(this isn't my pic)
I deleted my EGR And the circled hole i didn't fill ... would this cause a leak...