FAQ: O2 (Oxygen) Sensor Information

Jack the R wrote:

matt270avian wrote:

You can get a new downpipe from zzp, but they don't come with bungs welded on.

Is there a more sane option than "ignore SES light and forget about it?"

You can get an O2 emulator if you're concerned about passing emissions. The post-cat sensor is only there for emissions, it does nothing to control how the engine is running. Alternatively you can do what i did and just tune out the O2 codes because the sensor I got was crap. I bought the ZZP pipe and welded in a bung.

LARRY70GS wrote:

You can also cut out your current bung and just weld a new one in.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/O2-Oxygen-Sensor-Nut-Bung-02-M18-x-1-5-THREAD-/180846024262?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a1b435646&vxp=mtr

That may be the best option, after ignoring the problem Ebay is having trouble letting me buy that though

matt270avian - All I've got is a code reader or I'd definitely tune out the codes. We don't do emissions testing here.

You can buy them anywhere Jack.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2990

Jack, the O2 Emulator "replaces" the O2 sensor. All it does is send false signals to the PCM tricking it into thinking that the O2 is there and functioning. It's probably the easiest option as far as work goes. All you do is unplug the O2 and plug the Emulator into the harness, that's it. I've had one for years and it works just fine. You don't have to turn off any codes or anything. It's completely plug and play.

Exhaust bungs are available pretty much anywhere (as Larry has posted). The only issue being that there has to be enough pipe left to cut out the old piece, and weld the new piece in. If it were my car having this issue, I'd opt for the Emulator route.

For future reference, an O2 sensor socket is a very specific tool - a deep socket with an opening on one side for the wires to slide through. If you don't have one, rent or borrow one for the job (most autozones etc have 'loaner tools' that include this socket).

Also, if the old one is really really stuck, PB blaster is a great penetrant, and making the bung glow orange with a torch will help. Don't heat up the sensor, heat up the bung it's screwed into.

Checking Amazon for an oxygen sensor socket I find nothing but poor reviews and/or low review counts.

Anyone have a lead on a known socket that will be perfect for our sensors?

Thank you

I have one I got at Advance Auto and it was good for loosening one sensor, one time. Now it's only good for tightening them. If you try to loosen with it now, the socket just spreads apart and gets jammed on the sensor. That's probably why you can't find a good one.

Do you know any mechanics around you? I just drove up the street, asked to borrow it, and offered to buy them lunch way back when I did mine.

Z-type wrote:

I have one I got at Advance Auto and it was good for loosening one sensor, one time. Now it's only good for tightening them. If you try to loosen with it now, the socket just spreads apart and gets jammed on the sensor. That's probably why you can't find a good one.

I've had the same issue - is this the deep socket with the slot down the side? One thought is to get a 'normal' deep socket (impact, even) and cut the wires off the old O2 sensor you are removing. Just use the slotted socket for installs. Another thought is to put the socket on, then put a hose clamp around the bottom of the socket (closest to the nut) and make it as tight as possible to help stop the slotted (and a little flexible) socket from expanding over the nut corners. I haven't tried this, but I've had the same problem and butchered a few old O2 sensors getting them out.

Another key factor to removing a very old O2 sensor - HEAT. Get yourself a small MAPP/OXY torch from your local home improvement store and make the O2 bung GLOW ORANGE. That's been the most effective method for me.

Thanks for the help, guys. I will report back once i have more info.

charlieRobinson wrote:

Checking Amazon for an oxygen sensor socket I find nothing but poor reviews and/or low review counts.

Anyone have a lead on a known socket that will be perfect for our sensors?

Thank you

9 times out of 10, we have to heat the O2 up with a torch before it'll come loose...even with a socket. I have GM's "J-Tool" O2 socket, and it spreads apart just the same.
If there's room, I'll just use a 24mm open-end wrench with a another wrench "attached" to it for more leverage. That works the best if there's room.

I also have a super-thick O2 socket that doesn't flex apart, but it's only a 3/8" drive....

Or you could even slide a small section of pipe over the socket to act as a sleeve. You could either cut it short enough so that the wires can still stick out or just cut a slot in it like the socket has.

Apply PB blaster 2 hours ahead. Slip a box wrench over sensor, use additional wrench for leverage. Apply heat to bung if necessary.

(this has already been covered in the thread by various members, but this is how I broke mine loose)

pipe wrench

I used the 'box wrench' adapater thing from harbor freight. Came off easy.

I think I will ultimately be using the wideband plx module for PCM narrow band in the future because I think it's in a better spot in the exhaust line for a more accurate reading.

Is there an 02 emulator for 97's? ZZP and 3800 performance carry one that is only good for 98-99.

Jack the R wrote:

Is there an 02 emulator for 97's?  ZZP and 3800 performance carry one that is only good for 98-99.

'96-'03 should be the same Simulator. They all had the 4-wire square connector. The O2 sensors changed for the Series III.

I've definitely got the 4 pin connector. I wonder why ZZP/3800 say it only works for 98-99? There must be a reason.

Um...ZZP says it works for everything '97-2003...
They're Riviera "knowledge" must be wrong. This is the exact Sim I have in my car. All the O2 sensors are the same for those year ranges. As long as your O2 is a 4-pin square, not 4-pin flat like the '95's, this will work.

Think of it this way...why on earth would a Riviera O2 be different from a PA or a GP with the EXACT same engine?

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/468-O2-Emulator.aspx

EDIT: Why not just use the old Spark Plug non-fouler method? It's MUCH cheaper than anything else. Unless you actually have a bad O2...

You can add '96 to that list, it has the square 4 pin as well.

From the ZZP link -

Quote :

1998-1999 Riviera
1998-1999 Cadillac 4.6 liter
1997-2003 Corvette
1998-2003 Malibu
2002-2003 Trailblazer 4.2 liter
1999-1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue GLS with the 3.5L engine

O2 sim does not work on: 1997-1998 Buick Skylark (3.1 V6, 2.4 L4) or 1997 - 1998 Pontiac Grand Am (3.1 V6, 2.4 L4) because the power and ground wires are reversed on these models.

IF YOUR CAR IS NOT LISTED ABOVE OUR O2 SIM WILL NOT WORK! There are no refunds on electrical items so please choose carefully.

I can only guess that perhaps the power and ground wires are reversed on the 95-97 Riviera's as well?


If I didn't have a bad 02 before, I do now, since I cut the cable off so I could get a deep socket on it (02 sensor socket opened up too much trying to break the sensor free).

Unfortunately it looks like there's no emulator option for me

Look....they're the same. The only difference is the connector and pin that goes into the PCM itself. The wire colors are all the same, and all go to the same "point" as far as power, ground, Ref, and signal are concerned.

Here's a '98 Riv


Here's a '97 Riv


Here's a '96 Riv


'96-'97 are the same. The ONLY difference for the '98 is the place of the physical connector on the PCM itself. The wires are the same for every car. It WILL work. I don't care what ZZP says. The schematics tell different.

EDIT
They are correct on the Sunfire/Grand Am. Notice that the Ground wire IS reversed on these (pins C and D). NOT the Riv. Their information needs to be updated for the Riv....
'97 Sunfire

O.K. What's the worst that can happen if you're wrong? I'm not saying you are wrong, you clearly know more about this than I do. I just need to be sure there's no way my engine computer can be fried. I'm sure that sounds dumb. I hope it is dumb, but I've lived long enough to be bit by details that seemed insignificant a few times. I don't need to be bit to the tune of a car that no longer runs. No offense meant, but Murphy's Law has a special affinity for me.

Jack the R wrote:

O.K.  What's the worst that can happen if you're wrong?  I'm not saying you are wrong, you clearly know more about this than I do.  I just need to be sure there's no way my engine computer can be fried.  I'm sure that sounds dumb.  I hope it is dumb, but I've lived long enough to be bit by details that seemed insignificant a few times.  I don't need to be bit to the tune of a car that no longer runs.  No offense meant, but Murphy's Law has a special affinity for me.  

With the schematics I posted for you, you can see that it will work on your car.

Here is the EXACT connector you should have on your car....if in fact your O2 connector is exactly this, with the wire colors in the right spots, it will work. You can verify this with the schematics as well. I'm just trying to help, mang. I KNOW I'm right on this one.


Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function

A
TAN/WHT
1669
Heated Oxygen Sensor Sensor 2 (HO2S 2) Low

B
PPL/WHT
1668
Heated Oxygen Sensor Sensor 2 (HO2S 2) Signal

C
BLK
1350
Ground

D
PNK
639
Fused Output - IGN1[/b][/b]

FYI, I also sent ZZP an email regarding this concern. I provided a link to this thread, and offered to send them the schematics if they wish to see.

Is that the connector on the car? The Denso sensor has different wire colors (going clockwise from top left, white, blue, black, black).