Write-Up: Filled Rear Motor/Transmission Mount

My thinking is that pucks, being vulcanized rubber, offer some insulation against NVH, while working like a solid mount against torquing forces of the engine. Urethane bushings are the same idea, whereas a sold bronze bushing is straight-up race car stuff. Using metal-on-metal will rattle the interior considerably more than using rubber pucks, imo.

Man, this window weld is something else. Kinda thinking I shouldve went with the liquid urethane pour method instead...

charlieRobinson wrote:

Man, this window weld is something else. Kinda thinking I shouldve went with the liquid urethane pour method instead...

What's not to like about it? I used it and I loved it. I found it easier to cut open the tube and shove it in with my (gloved) fingers.

matt270avian wrote:

charlieRobinson wrote:

Man, this window weld is something else. Kinda thinking I shouldve went with the liquid urethane pour method instead...

What's not to like about it? I used it and I loved it. I found it easier to cut open the tube and shove it in with my (gloved) fingers.

You dirty bastard

turtleman wrote:

matt270avian wrote:

charlieRobinson wrote:

Man, this window weld is something else. Kinda thinking I shouldve went with the liquid urethane pour method instead...

What's not to like about it? I used it and I loved it. I found it easier to cut open the tube and shove it in with my (gloved) fingers.

You dirty bastard

Oh.... OH............... I see what you did there.

Here are some shots of my trans mounts. Front and rear. I filled the rear one and the ends caps for the front. I cut a gallon jug in half and filled it with sand so the rear mount would sit nice and straight. I rolled paper and used it as a spacer for the front mount end caps. Once they were filled, I removed the paper. Really hoping this rear mount fits my car. Looks like it should but we shall see... I only have doubts because I ordered front and rear from rock auto and the front they sent me was for 98 and earlier gen 8 models.

Got the rear mount installed today. WOW!

The Riv even starts better now! I used to have this final rocking motion when I put it into park after stopping. Not any more!

shifts? the very noticeable 1st to 2nd drawn out shift lag I had before, GONE! all shifts feel like butter now. It's just beautiful! Feels like a different car. That is how much effect this rear mount swap had.

wow.

Previously, you may have read that my DP was resting on the heatshield above the rack n P. NOT ANY MORE! I now have about 1.5" clearance over the heat shield thanks to the new rear mount and the flex joint of the DP looks a lot happier! Wow!

Very satisfied and grateful for the gains this mount has made

I replaced the rear transmission mount on my 97 a few months ago.  First thing, it is possible to remove the whole metal bracket that bolts to the cradle without lowering the cradle or removing the sway bar links and tilting it.  Once all of the bolts are removed, take the 4 bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission out and it will move out of the way enough for you to pull the motor mount bracket up and back.  It took me about 20 minutes of trying but eventually I got it out between the sway bar and the down pipe.  Maybe someone already said this and I missed it.

Second thing, the Anchor 3065 (Westar EM2065 on RockAuto now) must be quite a bit stiffer than the factory.  I drove the car around 2000 miles on the mount before temps started to drop so it should be "broke in".  The car feels normal until the temp gets below 30 f, once it goes below that there is a vibration at idle in gear and accelerating that gets worse the colder it gets.  No vibration in neutral at any rpm.  It's not because of the lower idle in gear either because you can hold the brake in drive and raise the rpm slightly and it doesn't go away.  I drove it at -5 f the other day and it was like a Cummins in a school bus until it ran for quite a good while, probably warming the rubber mount up though the metal transmission bracket.  It kind of sucks because even at 170k my interior is pretty quiet, but when it gets cold now that new vibration causes random things in the interior to rattle at idle.

Thanks for posting, Michael. I used the Anchor 3065 as well (I think), and noticed it had a slightly more beefy design compared to OEM. This is probably to maximize life of the mount, and I completely agree the rubber compound transmits more vibration when cold. I have experienced this phenomenon in a different car.

Maybe it's time to carefully remove some panels and damp the vibrations to reduce the noise. I'm sure of the new mount rattles them, they probably make some noise rolling over bumps as well. Ah, the joys of driving an older car!

Anyone find a suitable passenger engine mount replacement? Seems like nobody carries this and mine is still original @ 255k miles

AA wrote:

Thanks for posting, Michael. I used the Anchor 3065 as well (I think), and noticed it had a slightly more beefy design compared to OEM. This is probably to maximize life of the mount, and I completely agree the rubber compound transmits more vibration when cold. I have experienced this phenomenon in a different car.

Maybe it's time to carefully remove some panels and damp the vibrations to reduce the noise. I'm sure of the new mount rattles them, they probably make some noise rolling over bumps as well. Ah, the joys of driving an older car!

I did have to take the passenger door panel off and glue in a different piece of foam that sits between the black insulation and the rods for the locks/door handle. It would rattle with the window all the way up but stop if I barely tapped the switch to put it down. The original was basically dust, so I hot glued a piece of white stiff shipping foam on and that seems to have stopped the rattle. Other than that it's still pretty good, but once you hear it one time sometimes even the radio doesn't cover a noise!

stydel311 wrote:

I replaced the rear transmission mount on my 97 a few months ago.  First thing, it is possible to remove the whole metal bracket that bolts to the cradle without lowering the cradle or removing the sway bar links and tilting it.  Once all of the bolts are removed, take the 4 bolts that hold the bracket to the transmission out and it will move out of the way enough for you to pull the motor mount bracket up and back.  It took me about 20 minutes of trying but eventually I got it out between the sway bar and the down pipe.  Maybe someone already said this and I missed it.

Second thing, the Anchor 3065 (Westar EM2065 on RockAuto now) must be quite a bit stiffer than the factory.  I drove the car around 2000 miles on the mount before temps started to drop so it should be "broke in".  The car feels normal until the temp gets below 30 f, once it goes below that there is a vibration at idle in gear and accelerating that gets worse the colder it gets.  No vibration in neutral at any rpm.  It's not because of the lower idle in gear either because you can hold the brake in drive and raise the rpm slightly and it doesn't go away.  I drove it at -5 f the other day and it was like a Cummins in a school bus until it ran for quite a good while, probably warming the rubber mount up though the metal transmission bracket.  It kind of sucks because even at 170k my interior is pretty quiet, but when it gets cold now that new vibration causes random things in the interior to rattle at idle.

When you replaced your rear trans mount, how was the car supported (lift, jackstands, trolley jack)?  I am thinking jackstands and use the floor/trolley jack to move the transmission a little? Also, is it helpful to remove anything besides the bolts on the mount (like, the PS lines, etc) Please advise, thanks.

Albertj