Write-Up: Gutting the Stock Air Box

Yes Eldo, the Grams per Second readout would probably be the best method. It's heavily based on MAF Hz and air temp, so grams per second works even better. Either way, most of Jason's statements are right on.

Jason, I am not trying to imply that Boost should not be considered a factor, but there are too many variables to make a solid caluclation using boost. Cam design, intake runners, pulley size, heat charge to the intake air, exhaust system will all combine to determine boost. My engine at 6000 RPM I'm sure draws a different amount of air than your engine at 6000 RPM. But for base airflow calculations I'm sure this will get everyone in the right direction, and that's what really counts. Sorry for nitpicking!

Where is everyone getting K&N filters from? I looked on their web site and at the local parts stores, it doesn't seem to exist for my car. Is there one for another model that fits? I am in Canada BTW.

Most people on here have done a custom FWI design and adapted an aftermarket K&N cone style filter to the setup (search custom FWI). You should be able to find the dimensions on here. I just have a stock K&N replacement in my 95, but if I am not mistaken the filters may be different between the 95 and 98. I think you have a different airbox design.

uhhh... I gutted my box today and man, that plastic was some tough stuff! anyways.. I pulled that red gnarly sucker out and gave my baby a fresh breath of air. But ... i forgot to plug the sensor back in!

Down the road my SES light turns on and like a genius who just had a novel idea I pull over pop the hood and ta da, the sensor wasn't where it shouldve been. So thats good now but my SES light is still on. How do I turn the dang thang off? I dont like seeing that light, even if i know why it's there. I just dont want to see it! EVER!

I've done the same thing before. Not a big deal. The lamp will shut off after you drive the car another 2-3 trips (1 trip = turn car on, drive, turn car off). Or, pull the PCM fuse for 20 mins and replace - light should reset.

Woke up from a nap this evening and first thing I thought was.. did I put the sensor back in? Of course I did, how could I miss that!? Then down the road the SES came on and I did this

Thanks for the wisdom, my anxiety has been quelled.

I am trying to take the bottom part of the air box off and I'm stuck. I take the top right screw out and then theres something in the top left corner. its hard to get to and looks like a screw being held on with a rubber washer. I can get my hand and the wrench to it but theres nothing to torque. Just the rubber washer thing. Do I just have to rip the box out or is there a secret I'm missing?

Are there no answers on page 1 of the thread? Should be just two screws to remove.

Quote :

- there are two hex-head screws holding the bottom portion of the air box to the car. Use a socket wrench to remove the screws, then lift the box up and out of the engine bay.

So mine must be an anomaly? Because the left hex screw isn't a hex screw. it's a rubber washer. Even though I have my doubts, a previous owner must have done this. Unless I can wiggle the rubber stopper washer thing off, I think I am going to have to claw, rip, and tear through it.

Try vice grips maybe?

When I messed with mine on my old '95 the rubber washer you're talking about used to have a bolt going through it. The rubber washed acts as kind of a grommet/sleeve for the bolt that's supposed to be there and would get wedged in the sheet metal. It took some force to remove it.

I hope that helps a little.

wanna know wat I did to mine?...I cut that bolt out!

Your 'WTF' in your picture is correct - there is (used to be?) a bolt over there with a rubber grommet thingy insulating the housing. It's an odd bolt for sure, but there certainly used to be a bolt there.

Z-type wrote:

When I messed with mine on my old '95 the rubber washer you're talking about used to have a bolt going through it. The rubber washed acts as kind of a grommet/sleeve for the bolt that's supposed to be there and would get wedged in the sheet metal. It took some force to remove it.

I hope that helps a little.

robotennis61 wrote:

wanna know wat I did to mine?...I cut that bolt out!

deekster_caddy wrote:

Your 'WTF' in your picture is correct - there is (used to be?) a bolt over there with a rubber grommet thingy insulating the housing. It's an odd bolt for sure, but there certainly used to be a bolt there.

This is what I was looking for. Thanks, guys. Now I am reassured I can beat the hell out of this thing with no remorse. Perfect.

I will try to get a picture of this thing so everyone else can see what were talking about.

I just skimmed through this thread. Turns out I had the same problem as you. I drilled out the trouble bolt, removed the airbox, then replaced with a new fastener from the hardware store. (see page 3)

I just made the modification to the air box by removing the red and gray piece. Woo hoo! I can feel a definite improvement, plus I get to hear the supercharger sing when it kicks in.

The filter that was in there before was a cheap FRAM and was so dirty I'm surprised the car ran as well as it did.

What is responsible for the loud sucking noise when you start the car up on a cold morning with a CAI, FWI or gutted box? The engine also sounds louder until the sucking noise goes away. I know I have read the reason to this before, but the answer is escaping me right now. Does it have to deal with the IAC?

There are in fact 2 bolts. The smaller one that looks weird is just a bolt with a rubber thing on it. Just stick a 1/4" socket on it and you're good to go.