My problem has returned

I repaired this problem about a month and a half ago. It ran fine up until yesterday. Originally, the car wouldn't start and the plugs were wet with gas. I replaced the plugs even though they weren't very old. Still no start. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the car fired right up. It ran fine after that. My son used the car and had to leave it at a friends house because it wasn't running on all cylinders. I got in the car, started it, and it had a miss. I decided to drive it home so I could work on it, and the cylinder started to fire half way home. I got up the next morning and it wouldn't start. I pulled a plug and it was wet with fuel. I went with the Autolite 605's the last time I changed them, and thought maybe the colder plugs were fouling in this cold weather, so I installed the standard plugs. Still no start. When cranking it, it sputters but won't start. The plugs are wet again. After searching this web site, I'm suspecting the crank shaft position sensor. It did crank a little funny and reminded me of a car out of time. Will the crank sensor set a code if it's bad? My check engine light never came on.

Steve, you won't necessarily get a code when the crank sensor goes bad or the wiring to the sensor has a problem.
There have been some recent issues with guys having problems with the wiring in the harness and not the sensor itself.
Usually though they have replaced the sensor first only to find out it was a wiring issue. So you may want to check the wiring first, before replacing a sensor.
Do a search on here for Crank (and camshaft) Position Sensor and see if you can find some of the more recent writings on the problem.
Although the camshaft will normally trip a code and light.

I would check the camshaft sensor, but also the wiring harness and coil packs. Had a similar problem with mine when I first got it. Ended up being a loose harness on the coil pack. Just my experience with this.

Also, if electrical troubleshooting doesn't get you anywhere, be sure to check the fuel. My fuel pressure gauge has a drain hose attached to the pressure relief, and squirting some of that gas into a pan showed me the problem - I had water in my gas! A lot!

If it's partially running, I have trouble believing the cam sensor would be bad without giving you a code. If you got some bad gas, I can see this problem.

Believe it or not, I took all of the plugs out and cleaned them, and left them out over night to let any gas in the cylinders evaporate. I installed them in the morning and it started. I filled it with some good gas and added a can of Sea Foam, and it's been running like a champ ever since. I'm hoping I don't have some intermittent recurring problem, but for now everything is good. Thanks for the replies.....this site is priceless.

Have you been able to check the fuel pressure at the rail with the car running and then see if it holds holds pressure with the car off, and if so, what are the readings.? Car Running ? Car Off ?
If you don't already have one, the fuel pressure gauge Derek is referring to with the drain hose is about $35.00 at the auto parts store.
If you continue to have problems and are unable to tell if it's fuel or ignition related, the fuel pressure gauge is a relatively inexpensive tool to have in your tool collection and can tell you a lot.
Highly recommend one. Especially one with a bleed hose off the gauge. It is meant to relieve the pressure before you remove the gauge from the rail but also offers you the opportunity to bleed off some fuel right at the fuel rail into a small container and see if you have bad gas.

Thanks Rick. I really do need to buy a fuel pressure gauge. So far, it's still running great, but on a warm start, I have to touch the gas for it to start correctly. Could this be another problem, like a throttle position sensor or something similar? Once it's started, there is no problem with the idle, just on the initial start when warm. Cold start, there is no problem.