Where to begin...

Hey thanks man. I will be sure to read through that FAQ.

I found an intake that LOOKS like it would work...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=230109104277&rd=1

It looks like it would FIT, anyway.

The one thing I don't much care for is how that filter isn't isolated from the engine bay. Even the stock air box is designed to pull in air from the outside because it's cooler. While I do think that K&N cone should flow well, I also think it will flow a lot of hot air, which isn't good. One thing you could do is build an insulated box around the filter to keep the air cooler. Then it might work.

More on intakes: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/Supercharged-3800-Tech-c2/Series-II-FAQ-f19/What-are-CAI-FWI-t29.htm

Yes, short ram hot air intakes don't work well in L67s.

NO 4 EVR wrote:

Yes, short ram hot air intakes don't work well in L67s.

I disagree. With a mostly stock engine an open cone is better then a stock airbox. Not the best option by far.

Ok lol. I won't disagree but the massive amount of hot air being pulled in can't be much better than a little bit of slightly warm air.

Any one have intake temps on a short ram as apposed to a gutted box for FWI?

I know my intake temps are usually 5 to 10 degrees more than ambient temp (this was when it was like 30 out)

Alright i have been reading and was wondering what mod to do first. I think im gonna start with 180 degree thermostat and AutoLite 104 plugs. Is it better to have headers next ? Or 3"downpipe and High Flow Cat ? Also was wondering if anyone recommeded a good exhaust system ??? Thanks !

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/modding-how-do-i-make-the-car-faster-t23.htm+

Note: I would move the scanner up on this list. That way you can make sure that your car is running properly before you increase your power. The scanner will be able to help you make sure that everything is running properly and it will help you know how much know you are getting.

Quote :

1. Premium fuel
2. Cooler spark plugs
3. Cooler thermostat
4. Gutted air box
5. Cold Air Intake (CAI or FWI)
6. Modular Pulley System (3.6" or possible 3.5")
7. Scan device
8. 3.5" or possible 3.4" SC pulley
9. 3" Down pipe
10. Possible 3.4" SC pulley
11. Rockers or cam
12. PCM or tuner
13. 3.4" or possible 3.3" SC pulley
14. PEMs or headers
15. Possible 3.3" or 3.2" SC pulley
16. Exhaust and mufflers
17. Ported blower
18. Bigger throttle body
19. Intercooler
20. Possible 3.1" or smaller SC pulley

So they do make a Cold air intake for these cars ? I couldnt find one so i just went with the filter. How do i get one , or do i have to custom make one ?

Is it a true cold air is it the ones that you find on ebay that sit in your engine bay and suck up hot air ?

If i put smaller pulleys on engine, will i need to upgrade any internals ? I want to do it, but dont want to develop rod knock ? Thanks a lot !

98RiviSC wrote:

So they do make a Cold air intake for these cars ? I couldnt find one so i just went with the filter. How do i get one , or do i have to custom make one ?

You will have to make your own. There are a couple threads that have pictures and information that you can follow if you want to go that route. The ones on Ebay are warm air intakes. You would need to make a box to surround the filter to keep the warm air out of the intake.

98RiviSC wrote:

If i put smaller pulleys on engine, will i need to upgrade any internals ? I want to do it, but dont want to develop rod knock ? Thanks a lot !

You shouldn't have to if you keep knock low (zero is the best). Read some of the stickied threads at the top in this link https://rivperformance.editboard.com/series-ii-engine-transmission-f4/. It should help answer some of your questions. I would start out with a MPS (Modular Pulley System) first. I would suggest a 3.5 after you get the supporting mods done.

Alright, so if i buy the 180 degree thermostat, the autolite 104 plugs, would i be safe at 3.4 inch pully ? Im looking at the Module Pully System from intense racing right now. Thanks man !

No, that is not sufficient to start dropping pulley sizes. The ONLY way to determine that is by scanning for KR.

And how do i get a scan device ?

I did all the usual supporting mods that should have allowed me to run a 3.4 pulley, but I have knock retard even running the stock 3.8 pulley. Every engine/car is different, and no one can tell you what is "safe" until you can scan for KR.

I personally use an LS1M scan tool, but they are no longer produced. There are many options available for our OBDII engines, try searching the board for "scanners".

I found them, thanks a lot man, expensive, so maybe i will wait to get one of those tools before i upgrade pulleys. So even if i went with a 3.6 i have a chance of rod knock ? I was just wanting to do something for now and upgrade more later.

What did you find that is expensive? The obsolete DHP and the currently available HP Tuners tool are much more than scanners, they are tuning tools, enabling you to make programming changes. An example of a scan tool only, is an AutoTap, or an Actron. Have a look at those. Not CHEAP, but a lot less than a tuning tool.

We also have a lot of OH members, maybe you're close enough for someone to volunteer to do some scanning for KR for you.

The RK scanner is like 300$ right ?

That would be nice, i would pay them though. How is the scan done ?

98RiviSC wrote:

That would be nice, i would pay them though. How is the scan done ?

You plug the scanner into the OBD-II port. There is also a gauge that you can use as a scanner. I forget the name, but you can find it by searching the forum or by looking at the vendors websites.

Found it, it is called the Aeroforce Intercepter scan gauge.

Alrighty, now i just need to find someone that will help me by having the scanner. lol...thanks a lot man !

how would i go about gutting my air box?