Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)

Useful tool for changing sparkplugs (thanks to AA):

i recently did a spark plug change and found that fitting the following pieces together makes a handy spark plug ratchet:

- flex-head ratchet, 3/8" drive (craftsman #96875)
- universal joint, 3/8" drive (craftsman #96887)
- 3/8" drive to 1/2" adaptor (craftsman #96889)
- 5/8" deep-well socket, 1/2" drive

all 6 plugs can be removed and installed using this tool, and without the need to change or add any other pieces or extentions. here's what it looks like:

KD Tool has come out with this series of spark plug sockets that are pretty neat: KD Tools 3 pc. 5/8 in. Extended Universal Spark Plug Socket Set

It doesn't list this in the Sears description, but they are also magnetic.

Here they are again in Northern Tool.

Yeah they're not installed yet...but 6 bucks isnt worth my time to take em back...I plan on doing some modding but nothing to extreme...but hows this for some crap... I was looking at my plugs to see how hard they were to get to and i noticed the boot on the front middle cylinder was off the plug and the end of the plug was corroded so i put one of the 104s in and put the boot back on and when i drove it the difference was pretty big for a while and then i went back to double check and the boot seperated from the wire...so needless to say im getting new wires but they were out at the store so i have to wait till tommorow morning...though i must say it was still pretty quick for 5 cylinders...

and anyone have any tips on getting to the back plugs?

What kind of wires are on it, and how old are they? I recommend stock wires from the dealer, about $60 (maybe less online).

Stock wires...probably the original AC delcos...i'm getting ac delcos from a store for 50 bucks.

The rear plugs can be done easily from the top. Just use a ratchet with a swivel, and feel your way. Takes 15 mins when you figure it out.

Yeah...well i guess i got a project for tommorow morning... i'm glad i'm in florida so i dont have to freeze.

Best of luck!

Lucky guy. It was -32 here friday and the starter on my roadmaster froze We got over 3 feet of snow in November, now we're over 10 ft and it's still just December.

I didn't realize the plugs weren't installed. I would still just keep them.

Thanks for the offer Aaron. I'll take you up on it one day.

Wow... i can't even imagine what -32 would feel like. Sucks to be you.

-32 F... that's a bit on the brisk side. Coldest I've experienced was a -30 New Years Eve several years ago. Hope you don't have any wind with those temps, that's the real difference maker.

Wow, that's really friggin' cold. If I remember right, when it was -20ºF here 10 years ago, the my running nose turned to a "snotsicle" near instantly!

If it's that cold, heated garage or block heaters are in order.

AA wrote:

Wow, that's really friggin' cold. If I remember right, when it was -20ºF here 10 years ago, the my running nose turned to a "snotsicle" near instantly!

If it's that cold, heated garage or block heaters are in order.

That is some sick junk!

Sick part is, I'm originally from sunny Palm Beach, Florida. Takes a while to get used to this stuff.

No heated garage here, though I do intend to insulate and close in my garage ceiling in the next year or 2, then look into a hanging nat. gas furnace. I used to always have a block heater in my vehicles, but then I didn't have a double garage until 3 years ago, and running synthetic makes a big diff in really cold temps too, the engine turns over MUCH easier. My attached unheated garage does run 10-15 deg warmer than outside too.

I personally feel like we have it pretty good up here. VERY livable spring, summer and fall weather conditions, then winter is an OK break from summer heat and humidity. Aaron, I know you have it pretty bad with humidity in OH in the summer, right?

Yeah, it's pretty hot and humid here in OH during summer, but it doesn't bother me much. Like I said, originally from FL... if you want to feel hot & humid, visit FL in July/Aug.

my garage is insulated but I don't heat it because it aggravates rust. I use my block heater when it is -20 C or under. I use the German Castrol syntec 0W30 in my winter car. Good stuff.

AA wrote:

Yeah, it's pretty hot and humid here in OH during summer, but it doesn't bother me much. Like I said, originally from FL... if you want to feel hot & humid, visit FL in July/Aug.

Been to OH once in August, to Salem 2004. Lucky timing, it was 70-75 highs for 4 days, low humidity. Next summer will be in Columbus for a few days around Aug 1st for the BPG/Buick HP Nationals. I'd like to drive the Riv, but if I get some work done in time, will drive the 68 GS instead. No truck and trailer in my budget.

So i decided to tackle my spark plug job last night and let me tell you that was a blast. I didn't have the special socket configuration so I had to jack up the car and do the back plugs from underneath. How did everyone else do theirs?

I do mine from the top. If you prefer to go in from the bottom, consider using a pair of ramps from Autozone ($35). They come in real handy for whenever you need under the car, but don't need the wheels off (changing oil, etc.)

For the back plugs I just reach around the alternator and no problem. But I find it easier to go from underneath. Still really easy. Much easier than a GP.

One option is to have some people push the ca from behind while it's in park. The motor rolls forward a bit, then lock the e-brake. The engine stays in this foward position giving a little better access to the rear plugs from the top.

For the back plugs, I change from the top and use a 'wobble extension" on a socket wrench.

You can get a small wobble extension from Northern Tool, or your friendly local Snap-On or MAC truck vendor.

Albertj

I find it pretty easy to reach from the top, passenger side around the back. Left hand is not ideal, but I make it work.

Haha, nope, just amazon.com's compatability chart.

Now, I have a similar opinion to AA's, change 'em every 1 or 2 years since they're only 8 bucks anyway. I drive very conservatively, but like to hit the gas every now and then. Should I get 104's and swap them out every year or 20,000 miles, and if they look bad then go down to the 605's?



Again, how easy is it to install them? What tools do I need? Does anything have to be put in at a specific torque? How do I 'gap' them, does the auto part store do that?