Replacing Spark Plugs (Series II SC)

Read the thread...theres reference to the tools you need to make it as easy as possible. As far as torquing them down, only make them snug, then tighten 1/4 turn more....

Okay, I'll take the 605's. I'm gonna look under my hood and get a visual on how difficult it may be to reach the back, I'm hoping it won't be so hard that I have to find a way of getting under my car.

Why is it that the Regal was so easy and the Riv is almost impossible?

I've got all of them done except for the DS one in the back. It's effing ridiculous to get at. You have to either remove the EGR (which I'd do if I had a blockoff plate for it). Or remove the MAP bracket. I tried to get the engine hoist bracket off the back but short of me smashing the sh_t out of this car.... it didn't work. For a car this big, I can't understand why the engine back looks more cramped than the w-body.

I would try to get it from underneath, thats where i found it to be the easiest. That way you don't have to remove anything, its just a tight fit if you have big arms/hands.

I agree. The best way I've found to do it is to put the car on ramps...that leaves a good bit of room underneath the car - pretty comfy for the job.

I can change front and back in 15-20 minutes, from up top. Takes some practice, and the right tools, but it's pretty easy. Hint: go in from the passenger side, it helps if you are slender enough to fit through the hood strut.

^^ That's what I ended up doing. If the engine hoist bracket wasn't there, I wouldn't have ruined my forearm but it's done for now. Anyone know what size the nuts/bolts are holding that bracket in? I assume they are 13MM? I want to get that sucker out tomorrow, if possible. If anyone has suggestions for that, I'd love to hear them.

thats how I did it on the 97. But the 95 needs to be done from the bottom. That vaccum box gets in teh way. 96+, easy plugs, 95= more of a pain.

I lean over the front, get my arm behind the P/S pump, and can reach all 3 back spark plugs from there. Elbow tucked right behind the P/S pump for 4 and 6. I hand myself the tools and plugs down from above with my other arm.

I prefer to pull the car up on ramps so it's not as hard on my back.

I've also done all 3 from the bottom, it takes some fancy wristwork but it's really an easy job either way.

i just move unbolt the heater hose bracket ,push it backwards and that gives me plenty of room to get at the plugs from above.

Eldo wrote:

(The installation of our plugs is the real pain!)

I used to share this thought but I figured out of you lean on the passenger fender and stick your torso between the hood and support strut the process is very simple. Just gotta snake your left hand to the rear bank and there's plenty of space

L67 wrote:

Eldo wrote:

(The installation of our plugs is the real pain!)

I used to share this thought but I figured out of you lean on the passenger fender and stick your torso between the hood and support strut the process is very simple. Just gotta snake your left hand to the rear bank and there's plenty of space

I kneel on the radiator support.. and I am a fairly large guy.. reach right over the motor and bam spark plugs

98riviera98 wrote:

L67 wrote:

Eldo wrote:

(The installation of our plugs is the real pain!)

I used to share this thought but I figured out if you lean on the passenger fender and stick your torso between the hood and support strut the process is very simple. Just gotta snake your left hand to the rear bank and there's plenty of space

I kneel on the radiator support.. and I am a fairly large guy.. reach right over the motor and bam spark plugs

Actually, I drop the strut completely on the passenger side... If they're in good shape, it only takes one to hold the aluminum hood up. You can also buy a small clamp to tighten onto the other strut to hold it up.

I also remove the set-screws and wiggle the heater hose pipes out of the alternator bracket so I can move the hoses out of the way. With my back, hips, shoulders, etc. it's still a PIA...

It's all relative. Changing plugs on our cars is easy and roomy compared to a W-body...

I like to go up from underneath if I have the car raised, it's really easy to go around the exhaust pipes and reach all 3 back plugs. But it's still pretty easy to reach around to the back 3 from the top/side, around the PS pump...

How the hell do you change the spark plug closest to the driver side on these bastards??I can see that I can get at the other two from the underside,but no way can I get my arm up through and past the down pipe to get the last one.That particular wires insulation is a little cooked...hopefully that is the cause of my rough idle.I have a new set of wires and 605's to put in...but damn!! I just might let the shop do it,I have ZERO patience for tedious shit like squirming around and contorting...just to change the damn plugs no less!! I miss my old chevys...

O.k. in hopes of diagnosing my vibration at cruising speed I have done the following.Balanced tires TWICE (second time with a road force machine),got a four wheel alignent,and been under the car personally looking all of the mounts/bushings I can see.So,I cant really see the rear trans mount very well.but just from the angle of it at rest,I might say it looks a little sloppy...not sure though.The lca bushings at the rear are covered in small cracks,but I don't see any major splits all the way through.The front driver side motor mount looks like there is a gap in the lower front corner (between the rubber and the steel bracket) is this normal...just the way it was manuf.?The rear most driver side cradle mount is not sitting right...I can spin the top half of the rubber mount freely (I suspect alot of my vibration is coming from this,but not sure yet.I tried to torque the bolt to snug the rubber cushion to no avail.I incrementally went up in torque with my t-wrench up to 180 ft lbs...no dice!! Matter of fact I SHEARED my 1/2" - 3/8" adapter!! I figured it best to stop there.I don't even know the torque specs for these bolts...anybody have the specs by chance??So,other than the said loose rubber in the cradle mount do the other minor cracks etc. I described sound like contributing factors to my cruising speed vibration??What do you suggest to remedy the loose rubber situation??

As for the rear spark plug closest to the driver side.....You need to access it from the passenger side. There is a spot to stick your arm through to reach all 3 on the rear. Just look at it, study it, you'll see. Absolutely no need to remove the plugs from the bottom. It only takes about 15-20 minutes to change them all. IMO, this is one of the easiest FWD vehicles to change the plugs on.

Your cruising vibration. First of all, the driver side front mount has "gaps" in it from the factory, that's it's design. As for the big round rubber one.....if you can spin it, it's shot. Time to replace it. I have also had a cruising speed vibration for quite a while now (70mph+). After many times of balancing tires etc, it turns out that I have a bent wheel. Not bent radially, but bent laterally. The inner part of the rim is not in line with the outer part of the rim, got me? The bend (or twist) is somewhere in the center of the wheel.

I have changed my plugs from over the fender on the passenger side as Scott has said.
You may want to disconnect the hood strut on the Pass. side to give you a little extra room for your arm. After having done it once it becomes easier, as well as changing the wires.
As far as replacing the trans mount that is bad, refer to the Write Up on that. Used to be you could only get the mounts from GM at $300.00 a pop, but now they are available on-line (Rock Auto) and at Auto Zone from what I just read.

I think Scott is a little generous in his estimation of how easy the plugs are to change - I seem to remember the fronts taking 10 minutes and the rears taking 90... However, I do have another tip to help you get your arms in there.

Besides disconnecting the hood strut at the top and laying it down in the fender gutter, remove the single set-screw from each of the metal heater-hose pipes that plug into the alternator bracket. Put a pan under the car for the little bit of coolant that will come out, and gently work them in a circular pattern to remove them. They just have o-rings that seal them.

This lets you bend the heater hoses up and out of the path that your left arm needs, and it's a helluva lot easier than removing the hoses from the pipes. Before reassembly, clean the pipes, the holes, and the o-rings, and lube the rings with a little straight anti-freeze.

Eldo wrote:

I think Scott is a little generous in his estimation of how easy the plugs are to change

Eh, maybe I've done 'em too many times (3800 that is). Only takes bout 20mins for me Your arm fits perfect through there to access all 3. Still absolutely no need to do them from the bottom, that's the even harder way.

Abaddon wrote:

Eldo wrote:

I think Scott is a little generous in his estimation of how easy the plugs are to change

Eh, maybe I've done 'em too many times (3800 that is). Only takes bout 20mins for me Your arm fits perfect through there to access all 3. Still absolutely no need to do them from the bottom, that's the even harder way.

Wellllllllll.... Now we know who to go to for pulling those heater hoses off of the core end!

Have you ruled out worn CV joints? Maybe the vibration is coming from a 1/2 shaft.

Eldo wrote:

Wellllllllll.... Now we know who to go to for pulling those heater hoses off of the core end!

It's not so much the hose as it is the clamp.(s)

I've never found the rear plugs on any of the 3800 equipped cars I have owned over the years to be that big of a deal to get to from the top.

Abaddon wrote:

Eldo wrote:

I think Scott is a little generous in his estimation of how easy the plugs are to change

Eh, maybe I've done 'em too many times (3800 that is). Only takes bout 20mins for me Your arm fits perfect through there to access all 3. Still absolutely no need to do them from the bottom, that's the even harder way.

Yes, if your left arm is functional, it's not that difficult to reach in thru the passenger side from up top and get that last plug changed. I get all 6 in about 30min if I'm not in any hurry. Patience is key in doing the "bastard" plug.

If you don't already, please take an air hose with spray end and reach back there and blow out around the rear plugs before removal, just in case...

Good tip on the air hose. Thx, Dave. I've done that in the past, but I never thought to post it!

I've done them so many times, it's more about feel than anything. I've just accepted that this has to be done blind. Once you accept that, it's not so hard.

1998 Riv wrote:

Yes, if your left arm is functional, it's not that difficult to reach in thru the passenger side from up top and get that last plug changed. I get all 6 in about 30min if I'm not in any hurry. Patience is key in doing the "bastard" plug.

If you don't already, please take an air hose with spray end and reach back there and blow out around the rear plugs before removal, just in case...

Maybe that's it. I'm Left handed.

I'm right-handed, not good with my left at all, but I find it fairly easy to get the job done with the left.