Painting Wheels.

how can u tell what color ur wheels are? i freakin scraped mine TWICE already, fuckin used to those riv wheels that stuck out and protected from curb rash. i cant figure out how to choose the color paint to repair it. they arent deep at all, nor do they coever a good space, small yet annoying especiially being new. figured id sand it with a 300 sandpaper and give it a light coat of paint,,just gotta pick the color!

any help fast would be great!

you have to go to an auto store.they have many shades of silver.

i figured thats what it would be, so kind of take a guess or something? :/
do i get a spray paint or like a roll on little stick thing, marker?

finally found the freakin color online..its called "HyperSilver" is that a normal color??

find a spray can. test on the backside of the wheel to make sure its color compatible. fill any gauges with bondo,wet sand the damaged area with 320 or 400 grit,feather out the area and shoot the color. spotless cleaning beforehand is a must.remove any grease with wax and grease remover.wipe dry,spray. should come out tits!

thanks. u were much more helpful then the people on the hyundai forum. i didnt even get a response. so...either theyre ignorant, or they dont know what theyre doing.

no prob. forgot to mention,hit the repair with a little primer after damage is repaired.

unforturnate news. i went to get a paint to match. its off by just that little bit to notice. ughhh. gonna have to go and exchange the paint. hopefully pepboys will allow that lol.

bummer.try a auto body shop instead.

xxsupergman25xx wrote:

unforturnate news. i went to get a paint to match. its off by just that little bit to notice. ughhh. gonna have to go and exchange the paint. hopefully pepboys will allow that lol.

If the paint is close, consider doing the patching then repaint all 4 entire wheels to match.

Be sure to clean the wheel with a tire and wheel cleaner that contains an etchant like ammonium bifluoride (but keep the stuff away from people it's poisonous) so that you clean the wheels well and etch the aluminum a little, the paint will stick *much* better. Then patch the wheel as indicated. By the way, bondo patch is a bad idea if the wheel is structurally compromised. You'd need to let a wheel straighteneing/refinishing place have at it so they can refill the aluminum alloy properly.

By the way I bet you can get the matching paint through a Hyundai dealer.

As for the people on the Hyundai list you joined not answering, maybe there is a different Hyundai list on which participants actually work on the cars themselves. You'll have to search around for it though. Another thing, I hear the Hyundai people let you use the service manuals on line after you register. You might want to try to find that link.

Albertj

you can look at the service manul online as a PDF.i found a link that said owners only. very interesting. would u have an idea of how much it would cost for paint from the dealer?

silver paint is around $15 to $25 a can. your chances of finding a perfect match are better at an auto body supply shop.
@ Albertj; wtf is "ammonium bifluoride" ? scratch that.i know what it is. supergman said he "scraped them" why are you complicating his problem? bondo is safe and effective.so is a little JB weld for scrapes and bruises. primer is an acceptable medium for paint prep.on any metal.one could spend a fortune on metal prep products.primer is our friend.jeez! sorry Sgman,i cant take it any longer....

robotennis61 wrote:

silver paint is around $15 to $25 a can. your chances of finding a perfect match are better at an auto body supply shop.
@ Albertj; wtf is "ammonium bifluoride" ? scratch that.i know what it is. supergman said he "scraped them" why are you complicating his problem? bondo is safe and effective.so is a little JB weld for scrapes and bruises. primer is an acceptable medium for paint prep.on any metal.one could spend a fortune on metal prep products.primer is our friend.jeez! sorry Sgman,i cant take it any longer....

no problem - you are right that an auto body paint place that does computer matching is great to match the wheel paint. In some places it's easier to let the dealer do the legwork on that and it also may be the case that there's some in their body shop.

As for the primer, if the wheel is not prepped properly it won't stick either, although it may stick longer than most paints alone. Depends on the paint.

As for the bondo on the wheels, you're correct enough--but admittedly people vary somewhat on what's "just a scrape" and if the scrape is deep enough, a failure could be catastrophic although it would not occur until some time (one or more years) down the road. It's important to determine if the wheel is structurally compromised. Scrape is probably nto a big deal. If however that scrape is the surface evidence of a crack thru the wheel, that wheel needs either professional repair (recast) or replaced. I can't tell from here - but I can encourage supergman to take a second look.

As for the wheel cleaner, "Black Magic" wheel cleaner has the ammonium bifluoride. The wheel cleaner that was sold under the Clorox label did too but was recalled after some sub-genius let his 3 year old drink some (do a web search if interested, you'll find the news articles). The issue (as you know) is that if you don't clean and etch the prepared area right then the paint won't stick right and corrosion creeps under it. And again as in the case of bondo on the wheels, if you *don't* do it right it takes some time (one or more years) for the problem to show up.

My experience is - I got a set of OE wheels from Wilberts GM (Victor NY) that needed refinishing like you're mentioning - scrapes and light corrosion - and some work with a Dremel/stainless steel wire brush and then a scotchbrite pad, followed by washing with the Black Magic cleaner, was more than enough to smooth them out (wheel lip scuffs) and get the Dupli-color rattle-can wheel paint to stick fine. The paint pretty much but did not 100% match the GM paint so I sprayed it to blend, rubbed it (red compound), polished it (white compound) then clearcoated them (dupli-color clear coat for wheels). It's been 3 years now; I only use the wheels winters, and I have **no** corrosion. I think the Black Magic was $6.- for a bottle (I still have a little) and that paint was I forget how much - no more than usual price for decent rattlecan paint.

So I don't think one needs to spend a fortune but like most everything else it's at your own risk. Just sharing some of those risk considerations in case they had not occurred to readers.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

robotennis61 wrote:

silver paint is around $15 to $25 a can. your chances of finding a perfect match are better at an auto body supply shop.
@ Albertj; wtf is "ammonium bifluoride" ? scratch that.i know what it is. supergman said he "scraped them" why are you complicating his problem? bondo is safe and effective.so is a little JB weld for scrapes and bruises. primer is an acceptable medium for paint prep.on any metal.one could spend a fortune on metal prep products.primer is our friend.jeez! sorry Sgman,i cant take it any longer....

no problem - you are right that an auto body paint place that does computer matching is great to match the wheel paint. In some places it's easier to let the dealer do the legwork on that and it also may be the case that there's some in their body shop.

As for the primer, if the wheel is not prepped properly it won't stick either, although it may stick longer than most paints alone. Depends on the paint.

As for the bondo on the wheels, you're correct enough--but admittedly people vary somewhat on what's "just a scrape" and if the scrape is deep enough, a failure could be catastrophic although it would not occur until some time (one or more years) down the road. It's important to determine if the wheel is structurally compromised. Scrape is probably nto a big deal. If however that scrape is the surface evidence of a crack thru the wheel, that wheel needs either professional repair (recast) or replaced. I can't tell from here - but I can encourage supergman to take a second look.

As for the wheel cleaner, "Black Magic" wheel cleaner has the ammonium bifluoride. The wheel cleaner that was sold under the Clorox label did too but was recalled after some sub-genius let his 3 year old drink some (do a web search if interested, you'll find the news articles). The issue (as you know) is that if you don't clean and etch the prepared area right then the paint won't stick right and corrosion creeps under it. And again as in the case of bondo on the wheels, if you *don't* do it right it takes some time (one or more years) for the problem to show up.

My experience is - I got a set of OE wheels from Wilberts GM (Victor NY) that needed refinishing like you're mentioning - scrapes and light corrosion - and some work with a Dremel/stainless steel wire brush and then a scotchbrite pad, followed by washing with the Black Magic cleaner, was more than enough to smooth them out (wheel lip scuffs) and get the Dupli-color rattle-can wheel paint to stick fine. The paint pretty much but did not 100% match the GM paint so I sprayed it to blend, rubbed it (red compound), polished it (white compound) then clearcoated them (dupli-color clear coat for wheels). It's been 3 years now; I only use the wheels winters, and I have **no** corrosion. I think the Black Magic was $6.- for a bottle (I still have a little) and that paint was I forget how much - no more than usual price for decent rattlecan paint.

So I don't think one needs to spend a fortune but like most everything else it's at your own risk. Just sharing some of those risk considerations in case they had not occurred to readers.

Albertj

"AAAGGGGHHHHH!!!!!!

regarding the paint not matching - perhaps the OE wheel paint is clearcoated? If you don't clearcoat your new paint it won't match, even if the color does match. Find out if it needs a CC before you decide the color isn't matching. It could also just be that the finishes don't quite match up because you might need to wetsand and buff out the top layer (whether clear or color), and you are seeing the difference in non-matching finishes.