Has anyone ever replaced their EBTCM by themselves?

I can take to Meineke for them to do it, but I wonder if I can do myself.

It appears to be held on with two bolts, and there's 6 brake connections on there. I'm just afraid I disconnect the break lines and tubes and the flud leaks out...and I"m not sure how to bleed this setup!

Anyone ever try it?

You need a Tech II or aftermarket scanner with the 2-way ABS controls to bleed the ABS valves.

I have heard that you can bleed it with a power bleeder but I have not tried that and don't recommend that over using a Tech II.

Albertj

screw that! I'll have them install! Don't mess with brakes!!!

Albertj... I'm getting an ABS/TC light.. I just replaced the ABS module and it's still there, next is the EBTCM, but is there something I may be missing? Relays or something???

Hi Nate,

You probably have the same info in your manual as I have in my '98 eBook, but I'll point out 3 things I'm seeing:

- To be clear, this isn't the EBTCM - that's the brain. This is the BPMV, the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve. Perhaps that will help you find the right section in the manual ( plus, you just KNOW how the thing you're looking for is always in the other book... )

- Have a 5/8" bolt/plug/something to plug the hose coming from the master cylinder reservoir.

- I just saw Albert's post, and maybe he knows something about the '96 that I don't, but according to this book the job just requires a normal 4-wheel bleed when you're done... I would add that since the air is going to be at the very beginning of each brake line, have plenty of fluid on hand, and make sure you don't turn on the key until you're done bleeding.

- Finally, there's a warning in the reassembly step that has no photo, nor corresponding reference in the disassembly procedure, so keep an eye out for this metal gasket:

Important
Improper installation or inversion of the metal gasket may introduce extremely high pressures during the autobleed procedure. This high pressure may cause severe damage to various components on the brake system.

Ensure that the locator tab position is correct so that none of the internal ports between the pump and the valve block assembly are blocked.


Kind of sounds like more of a rebuild warning, doesn't it? I mention it only to be safe, but all the other instructions just say to disconnect the wiring, disconnect the brake lines and remove the mounting bolts... BTW, I'm seeing 2 rear mounting bolts and 1 front one.

Good luck with your job. Personally, I'm going down right now to attack that miserable lower radiator hose and plumb in my tranny cooler...

Mark

Good advice...

I should mention that I disassembled the whole unit when I got it. It was covered in rust so I took it all apart, disconnected the brake lines & such. And I know what metal gasket you write about.. It's in the right positon. I blew out all the internals and it appears ready to install...

BTW this is my second EBTCM or BPMV ( ) I've installed. So if this doesn't do the trick, I'm just going to pull the lights out of the dash and not worry about ABS andT/C... remember, cars used to NOT have ABS and traction control!!

Natesriv wrote:

I should mention that I disassembled the whole unit when I got it. It was covered in rust so I took it all apart, disconnected the brake lines & such. And I know what metal gasket you write about.. It's in the right positon.

Could you elaborate on that gasket?

It's between the motor/valve assembly and that big silver bottom part. It's a triangular'ish metal gasket with holes in it, each hole is surrounded by a rubber o-ring. That big silver bottom part actually holds 10..what appears to be valve things... all connected by plastic film wiring.

on my first EBTCM those valves were just all rusted to pieces...and the underside of that silver bottom was rusted very badly...that's why it failed.

So when I got the first replacement EBTCM I took it all apart and cleaned and painted...

Now on this one I did the same, but put some gasket compound on the bottom portion as well, to seal it even more against moisture.

NOTE TO ALL...If you spray your engine down to keep it clean, avoid that EBTCM area all together.

Natesriv wrote:

screw that! I'll have them install! Don't mess with brakes!!!

Albertj... I'm getting an ABS/TC light.. I just replaced the ABS module and it's still there, next is the EBTCM, but is there something I may be missing? Relays or something???

Eldo (Mark) caught this one.

I'm wondering if maybe you just had a wheel sensor die. You pulled codes again yet?

Albertj

when I took it to Meineke they said they had a few codes..

a. ABS Module
b.. ABS/Anti Skid Relay
c. BPMV ABS valve
d. Front hubs...

I find it odd that the light went on and everything is bad at once! BOTH wheel sensors? all the other junk??

I put a new ABS module in from Morad...nothng.. checked the fuses and cleaned the relays (has anyone EVER seen a relay go bad?)...so I have the EBTCM assembly to install and if that doesn't work...it's the hubs.

I made a mistake in NOT getting the DTC codes from them,.....

Natesriv wrote:

when I took it to Meineke they said they had a few codes..

a. ABS Module
b.. ABS/Anti Skid Relay
c. BPMV ABS valve
d. Front hubs...

I find it odd that the light went on and everything is bad at once! BOTH wheel sensors? all the other junk??

I put a new ABS module in from Morad...nothng.. checked the fuses and cleaned the relays (has anyone EVER seen a relay go bad?)...so I have the EBTCM assembly to install and if that doesn't work...it's the hubs.

I made a mistake in NOT getting the DTC codes from them,.....

not to worry - were you along this path earlier I'd have commented check wires to the hubs for obvious damage; and by the way if they have a lot of mies on them the sensors might be toast; and finally if it's cash that's got you consider junkyard hubs, there are a number of GM cars using the same hubs and people don't necessarily junk their cars over hubs - a good scrapyard person can usually pick out good ones, if only by looking for the marks that signify an SKF or Timken.

Albertj

Well, I do hear at about 45 mph a grinding type worn out bearing/drive shaft sound coming from the right front...very faint.

But they said they both were signalling bad...now an EBTCM shouldn't be able to do that...so..I'm wondering if they were just tossing shit out there...

The wires on the hubs look good. I long ago checked them and cleaned the connectors & such.. I wouldn't mind replacing the front hubs as that car has 115K and is 14 years old... eBay has them too...

A bad BPMV is rare. And yes, trying to bleed them without the Automated Bleed function of a Tech II sux.

An easy check to see if the WSS's are good is this.....

--unplug the WSS at the hub. On the female connection (hub side), use a DVOM and measure the resistance across the two terminals. You should get a variable of between 800 - 1500 Ohms. Anything between those readings is ok. Also, you can set the meter to AC volts, spin the wheel slowly, and watch the meter to see if it goes OL, which would indicate a dead spot. It's an easy check to do.

As for the other side of the harness (male end), you would need to unplug the EBTCM connector, and check from there all the way to the other end (male) of the WSS harness for continuity. An easier way to do this would be to use a jumper on the male end, "connecting" the wires together, and simply checking both circuits at the EBTCM. As long as it shows about .4 Ohms, both circuits are good from the EBTCM to the male end. If you get a high resistance or OL, then you need to isolate each wire and find out which one is bad. GM cars have a habit of breaking the wires off about 6 - 10 inches from the plug because of the constant bending while turning.

These are just a few tips, but after reading this post, I seriously recommend having any codes cleared, and see which ones come back before you repair anything. I seem to recall mentioning this to you in a different thread related to this......

Too bad you can't clear ABS codes with a regular scanner!

I might have them do another scan (it's $65) and get all the codes down on paper. Then they clear them and we go from there.

I should not, on two occasions, the lights went off for about 5 minutes then came back on. While they were off, I could engage and disengage the T/C light on the dash...by using the T/C off button...

Hey guys,
Since I put my new *used* s/c on the ABS/TC light has been on constantly. However, i had the negative battery terminal off for two days while I did the swap.

can you clear ABS codes that way? As soon as I plugged it back in and started car, the lights were on instantly, I even changed the ABS control module...same thing.

is the code still there, and can be wiped to see if any changes I made worked?

Having the battery disconnected for 2 days will clear any codes stored. There is a problem if the lights are still on.

Natesriv wrote:

Hey guys,
Since I put my new *used* s/c on the ABS/TC light has been on constantly. However, i had the negative battery terminal off for two days while I did the swap.

can you clear ABS codes that way? As soon as I plugged it back in and started car, the lights were on instantly, I even changed the ABS control module...same thing.

is the code still there, and can be wiped to see if any changes I made worked?

This is a puzzle, not sure what to check. You did check the wheel sensors, right? and what if you put the old ABS controller back in?

Albertj

Okay, I've a new EBTCM (or the motor & valve assembly) ready to put on as well...But I still think I'll need a hub(s)

Thanks!

BTW, new S/C still running just fine. I'm amazed how much quieter it is.

not done anything with hubs...have no equipment to check the voltage & stuff... Still have old ABS part...

Sh_t, only thing left to replace would be a cheap relay, or two hubs (hopefully just the fronts) and the EBTCM.

I'm thinking I'm going to go back to Meineke have them put the EBTCM and do another check, on and see if we've narrowed it down)...

I washed the car and walking into work today looked back...she's so lovely. The Riv is a great looking car and I gotta keep her up! never surrender!

Nate, I've already told you an easy way to check the WSS's. It's on the first page of this thread. Borrow a meter from someone. You can buy a cheap meter for like $15. All you need it for is Ohms/Volts. It could possibly save you quite a bit of $$$ in diagnostic charges.

If you are not clear on what to do after reading my post (page 1), I'll even take pics to show you. It's really easy to do man......

back to my reply... I DON'T have the equipment. Doesn't mean I can't get it...just haven't

Car drives fine right now so no rush...besides, letting the s/c run for awhile to make sure that demon is quelched!