Engine Wiring Harness Diagrams - Series II SC

L67 wrote:

Correct, '96 is a Series II SC. Still don't see why one yellow wire would need to split into two

In my 98 wiring diagram I can find a minimum of 3 Yellow wires going into the main connector.
Pin #64 = VSS High
Pin #68 =Transaxle Range Switch
Pin #69 = MAF Signal
Remember this is for a 1998 and will not be the same for your year.
I'm just pointing out that they use the same color wire for several systems.
Stupid I know.!!!!

Rickw wrote:

L67 wrote:

Correct, '96 is a Series II SC. Still don't see why one yellow wire would need to split into two

In my 98 wiring diagram I can find a minimum of 3 Yellow wires going into the main connector.
Pin #64 = VSS High
Pin #68 =Transaxle Range Switch
Pin #69 = MAF Signal
Remember this is for a 1998 and will not be the same for your year.
I'm just pointing out that they use the same color wire for several systems.
Stupid I know.!!!!

Right, in my FSM it says 2 of the yellows are MAF signal wires. They're both #492. Right now all i can figure is that there's a break behind the firewall (very unlikey), or that second yellow wire has a break (somewhat likely), or the yellow wire i repaired which had continuity to the MAF sensor (havent tested voltage yet), is shorting.

Yes, be aware that disturbing a harness as you have can not only break a brittle wire but you could be experiencing a cross short between two adjacent wires. Anything is possible on a 10+ year old vehicle.

that's why i think i'm just going to run a direct wire from the connector to the maf. i just need to be 100% sure the wire i cut is the right one

Mr.Riviera wrote:

that's why i think i'm just going to run a direct wire from the connector to the maf. i just need to be 100% sure the wire i cut is the right one

You still need the map of the connector pins?

My previous experience with the Mitchell Diagrams were always positive, but you seem to have a conundrum. (I like that word)

i think it is #69, but that is what the 98 fsm says. i've never had the connector apart so i dont know how it is labeled or set up.

Update: i found the break, but it is right at the connector. how do i remove the tab inside the connector to wire up a new one?

There is a white catch bracket that slides in and out of the connector that you will have to remove first (kind of a fork-like thing). Then you will have to take some pliers and grab the broken wire end while putting a small pick in the pin side to press down the metal tab to release it.

ok i got the wire kinda hooked up, plugged it in and the car wouldnt start. SES light and code was gone, but the car just kept cranking.
I undid the wire i fixed, plugged it all back up and still nada.
Cranks over and over as if the CKP sensor is bad. did i F-up that wire too? which one is it?

got the car to crank but i still cant get the metal clips out of the connector to properly connect the new wires.

Have you looked at radio Shack for the pin removal tool. They may have the pins, male and female as well as the removal tool.
Generally very inexpensive.
I would buy at least one male and one female pin new from a GM dealer so you know what the exact pin dimensions are and then see if you can get them and the tool at Radio Shack.
I have accumulated a few different removal and installation tools over the years for different manufacturers pins. They are all different diameter's and shapes.
Yes, you can improvise and use small picks and ground down paper clips to reach in some types of connectors and release the tang that holds them in. Some others you end up destroying the connector trying to get them out. So be patient.

i've tried it 100 times with the pick and other tools around the house, but i dont even see what is holding the terminal connectors in there!?!
I went to radio shack and they have lots of PC connectors, but nothing that looked the same as on the car. autozone had a multi pack that had one similar too.
Does the terminal clip come out from the front or the back of the connector?

It depends on the type / manufacturer of the connector.
GM doesn't make them they have other vendors make them for them. That's why i suggest going to the GM parts counter and buying one male and female so you know what your dealing with.
Once you have one in hand you'll be better able to tell how to remove it and re-install a new one without destroying the plastic connector in the process.

Well I never understood the 2-digit labeling (i.e. pin-69), but that certainly does look like the MAF Pin-A6 in my eFSM...

Their lettering/numbering system doesn't make a lotta' sense (the outer rows only have 6, for example) but this looks like the same actual connector:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4118992942_6683a7c19a_b.jpg

As far as removing the terminals, all of the pins in your photo seem to have the usual 'extra' slot next to them, and I would think they'd be like any other connector that I've disassembled on my car, and you can use a thin, ice-pick-like tool to press the tab sideways and then pull the wire and terminal out the back...

These two tools should be able to help you.

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=105
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=1111

You can find them on Amazon. I also found them at this site http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=LIS56500. You also might be able to find them locally.

I haven't seen the clips before, but most likely there is a barb on the sides the metal clip that is holding it in there. You need to get something in there like a pick or the tools in links above to get the barbs pushed in. You probably need to push it in from this side to get it out.

To update my MAF problem i found 5 volts at the yellow wire at the MAF plug, so i took my 99+ MAF sensor that I'm going to use with my Stage 1 TB and plugged it in to rule out a bad MAF sensor. I got a Hz reading! So my OEM MAF sensor bit the dust for some reason.

glad you found the problem Matt.
I havent had time to tear back into mine, but i plan to this holiday weekend when i get to my parents house.

I put in a MAF from the junkyard from a 3800 Camaro (same part #) and it initially gave me a Hz reading and ran fine with no P0102. After driving around for about 10 minutes the DTC returned and i had 0 Hz...What happened? Is a short frying my sensors? I plugged my 99+ back in and its still getting a reading but the two 96-98 sensors are dead even after cleaning. I suppose I'll get one more to see if it was a fluke but if it dies then I'm worried

well, i did get my maf back working today. i was able to use the existing connector and bend it around a new wire. so far it stays connected, but it isnt my idea of a solid fix.

I had repaired this a while ago already but I didn't visually confirm until now that the problem was at the main engine plug. I originally bypassed the whole thing and ran new wires all the way from the PCM. I bought a replacement 97 s/c riv harness from morad recently to put in and I got it in now. I've been itching to replace the whole thing for a while for a number of reasons. I freshened this one up with a lot of new flex loom and retaped a lot and it looks very healthy so hopefully I'll get plenty of failure-free miles out of it.

Btw, does anyone have the ICM part of the harness to spare that's in good shape? The one morad sent me has a pretty rusted ICM plug bolt and it doesn't even look like the socket is going to fit on it.

does anyone have wiring diagrams for the engine compartment and if so can you help me out? and from what i've gathered haynes and chilton do not have a book for our cars but do they offer one for our type of engine?

I have access to any wiring diagram you may need. Some of which I can post, the others are "protected". As far as a diagram of how everything is routed (which is what it sounds like your asking for), not so sure. If you let me know EXACTLY what you need, I can try and help.

www.ondemand5.com

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this is the mitchell account that my school used when i went there, last time i checked its still valid and if it works you can use it along with anyone else here, im not sure if ive posted this here before but like i said that account is open for anyone that needs it.

Ummm, it will get cancelled soon. If too many IP's access the site with that username and password, Mitchell will freeze the account and notify the school.