FAQ: High Mile Club - Wear/Repair Reports

AA wrote:

Curious, how did you come to notice the coolant loss? Coolant on ground? Low level in reservoir? Or low level in radiator (including low coolant lamp)?

The reservoir level would drop for no apparent reason. So we put dye in the radiator and the reservoir and I kept driving it. It took over a year to figure out what was up. I had driven the car long enough to fully warm up, no issues, then for no good reason I drove a short way to a local convenience store (got a bag of pretzels), Coming out of the store I noticed coolant on the ground under car under front of drivers front fender. Opened the hood, could not find the leak. So I got home and put the UV bulb in my trouble light (I bought a spiral fluorescent blacklight bulb at Home Depot a year ago when we put the dye in), opened the hood to have a look. It was *obvious* where the leak was. There is small crack in the neck of the rad hose fitting in the drivers side plastic tank.

Darn those plastic tanks...

At 242000 miles I am not real torqued about having to get a new radiator. I mean, I don't wanna spend the money but it's not a big surprise given the age and I'll do some PM (my radiator hoses, for instance, are *original*) while I am in there. I thought about installing stainless or clad-copper hoses but could not make a good excuse for the extra ~$200. Did not think twice about replacement, though. The hoses in service are 13+ years old (mfg date of late 1997 is stamped onto each hose). I also thought about getting radiator with metal tanks but RockAuto did not show one and the http://www.radiator.com site - well, getting a straight answer from them as to what the radiator is made of, or whose radiator it is, is not something I am an expert at. For instance, weak crimps on the tanks of Nissens radiators are legend, but easily fixed with handheld vise grips. SpectraPremium rads *just* meet the OE specs. VistaPro radiators exceed the spec for the Riviera somewhat. So yeah I want to know whose it is.

Come to think of it, I might/should replace the heater hoses and that elbow while I am at it.

Albertj

Howdy All,

1996 Buick Riviera

Just added one more to the 250k + crew. I'm currently at 254k.

Original engine supercharged (eats about a quart of oil every 3K miles). Transmission has been rebuilt a couple times, but it never seems to be quite right anymore. Starting to not trust the people at AAMCO. It recently started to chatter at full throttle when going up hill. Oh joy!

Broke the tape deck about 50k miles ago. Spent it's first winter in the North this past year, and managed to not get too much rust.

I'm the original owner, and I've got records for all major repairs since I bought it.

Have you guys ever heard of anyone getting GM to buy back high mileage cars to look at what they did right?

-Ames

Welcome to The Site, Barrett. But "Starting to not trust the people at AAMCO"? Remember their old commercial: Come to AAMCO and know what you're getting? A lot of us don't go to AAMCO because we know what you're getting.

Spoiler:

SCREWED.

"A lot of us don't go to AAMCO because we know what you're getting."

I bought my current 95 Riv with 61k miles on it for $1700.

I understood it needed brakes and had difficulty starting.

Since I knew the car needed a bit of work I was hoping to be able to fix it up so that the totall costs including original $1700 would not go over the $2500 I sold my 157k Riv for(green one pictured). This would have be a big win...but it didn't work out that way.

Odo: 61682
Fuel Pump- $493.90
Sending Unit Hold Down Ring- $13.90
Total w/ labor= $782.69

Crank Shaft Sensor- $71.90
Hermonic Balancer- $159.90
Total w/ labor= $391.79

Spark Plugs+installation- $150 <- Riv doesn't make it easy to DIY so I had it done reluctanly.

Odo: 64604
Ignition Lock Cylinder- $189.90
Ignition Key- $33.80
Link Assy- $12.90
Link Assy- $15.90
Total w/ labor= $535.03

Odo: 67680
Front Wheel Hub- $198.90
Front Sway Bar Link Kit- $38.90
Brake Line- $107.40
Fitting- $59.88
Brake Fluid- $15.20
Total w/ labor= $1,198.11 <- that KILLED me.

Every year in the winter the car would have an issue starting so I decided to switch it up and try another mechanic.

Crank Shaft Sensor repair...again + labor- $275

Having a bad case of the deja vu I compiled my binder for work done on the car which includes documentation from original owner.

The guy was a real gem and comped the cost of the re-repair of the sensor and finally found the issue the other guy did not notice.

Ignition switch- $299.73
Total w/ labor- $318.46

Car starts everytime! A wire was loose on the ignition switch (brown) and even though he was able to place it back where it needed to be, the wire would come loose and prevent starting. We go a whole new piece.

Oil & Oil Filter- $19
Serpentine Belt 1- $31.90
Serpentine Belt 2- $49.90 <- one for the engine another for the supercharger, again could not do it myself, the belt seemed intertwined and I needed the car for the winter; couldn't tinker.
Timing Cove Gasket Set- $29.90
Antifreeze- $14.90
Total w/ labor= $744.14

The car started bucking and feeling like it was rumbling at idle which led me to research and find these to be TPS sensor issues of which I bought a new one and installed it myself. The findings also mentioned it could be the MAF sensor so I chose to replace the cheaper option since I have been unemployed for a year today. The rumbling at idle stopped and after replacing the air filter, the car was cherry. I was estatic to think I finally got the car to the condition I wanted it in to be able to use this low mile vehilce enough to make all the repairs worth while.

As of recent though, I was on a flat stretch of highway and came to a stoplight. All was good until the light ran long and the car stalled. Just like that, no rumbling or any other sign of distress. It started right up and I had parked it ever since. About a month now. Every week I visit the vehicle and start it up, take it to the gym(20mile trip/ backroads) with no problems...yet the check engine light that used to come on when I had TPS/MAF issues and went away after replacing the air filter does now come on. I only notice a problem at full throttle when I gun it and it pulls back. Its not like it was when I could gun the car and it went into Millenium Falcon mode really showing off its American muscle.

Today, which concerned me enough to post all of this, was when I decided to take the car to the coffee shop for a quick trip. It started fine, the brakes were a little faded which has concerned me since I was under the impression I got a full brake system repair with new front brakes for the $1,198 I paid a little less than a year ago. 2 miles down the road I came to a 2-lane stop light and had to pull over to the empty lane since I was seriosuly having difficulty stopping. I did see the brake light come on for a moment and hear the ding. I forgot about the coffee and went straight back to my friend's appartment parking lot where I am now keeping the vehicle. Much better than in the woods at my grandparents.

Another scary feature that I found out today while parking it was when I put the car to P-park the engine revved to 3 or 3,000 rpms and I did not have my foot on the acceleration. Before it got out of hand I turned it off and went back to my older Miata of which seemed like a new car in comparisson.

I am looking for some insight from anyone who knows what I can do to remedy these new issues. I have engine code readers for systems 1 and 2 but some General Motors vehicles of 1994/95 including my model gives off rare 1.5 system codes so I cannot read it myself. My older mechanic of which I returned to get a free reading when I was having the TPS/MAF issues told me it could be the MAF sensor or its wires. He told me it could take 3 hours, could take days to figure out. Being unemployeed I need to do as much as I can myself and not make fixes to things that don't have issues. If I replace the MAF sensor and it the wires, I'm out $160/$200 for the sensor. I have used MAF sensor cleaner which temporarilly work but it feel like I need to do it everytime.

Being July now, I am seriously considering alternative options for a winter vehicle. I would hate to have to totally give up on the Riv seeing as there are soo many new parts on a vehicle that has very little mileage considering its age; mostly do to its elderly owners.

Being a rare car, I am not sure if my Riv would be of interest as a parts vehicle for someone. I am not interested in parking it out since I'm not a tinkerer and would not care to have the husk laying around.

Unemployment is a bitch and all the money I get goes to repaying student loans. My budget, if any, for a replacement winter vehicle would be from the sale of my Riv.

I have been seriously considering either the LeSabre or Century; model years 2000+. Ideally it would be of great interest to get ahold of a 2004/05 Century of which I'm sure have 1 owner, bought by an older person, and even with higher miles would be a lot newer than try to replace aging Riviera parts.

$3k is a budget buster but I would love to hear from any of you what would be a decent winter/snow vehicle with under 100k miles, ideally over the year 2000. Really small cars need not apply since getting snow tires would mean more $$.

I would really like to get the Riv back in action, repaired and ready for sale. I do own the vehicle outright so it would only cost me for repairs. And seriously I wonder with all the repair costs I have accured already, couldn't I have purchased a new motor?

Do you know the mileage and dates for each of the repairs? This info might help you decide how much money you are really spending, and it gives our members an idea of when such parts might fail.

Not to criticize so don't take this the wrong way, but you should really look at doing more work on the car yourself. Alot of what I saw listed were relatively easy jobs to do, granted they're time consuming, but if your unemployed you must have some spare time. A few bloody knuckles and some curse words are far cheaper than the totals you listed, and probably less stressful in the long run. Even if you don't know the procedures, most everything is documented in threads on this site that will walk you through.

Like you said you have alot invested in this car in the last while so it's most likely not worth it to sell. You simply won't see the kind of return you desire after the expenditures. Besides what happens if you sell the Riv and get another fixer upper? I would keep the Riv knowing that it isn't far off being A1 again. Why not use the transit systems to get around instead of buying another car for winter?

I know it's easy to be critical from an arm chair , but it would be a shame 4 you to take a loss on your Riv and replace it with an inferior car. Just my 2 cents, goodluck on whatever you decide.

I would like to do more of the work myself but I have no way of diagnosing the problems to even research the way to fix it. From what I can gather, I try to research what might be the issue online, figure if I can attempt it myself, and if not then contact a mechanic.

I would love to have a friend who was available an knowledgeable about mechanics to advise me or show me how to assemble and dissassemble parts.

My brother in law who works on semi trucks and tri-axle dumps never has the time for me to ask him his opinion or advice.

Aaron, I do have the mileage on the slips, I will add that to the original post. Good idea. My old Riv at 144k when I bought it has little to no issues as compared to this low mile Riv.

A quick search for the revving when in park/idle seems to be the Throttle Positioning Sensor, the TPS I just replaced. According to a professional You Tube training video for installing a new TPS unit was litterally plug and play. Yet I did hear of needing to tune the TPS when installing it but when I saw other videos pro and amateur all just plugged it in.

I did as well and it did fix the rumbling at idle. My car had never revved at idle/park.

For those who have replaced theirs, is there a setting I missed?

The video was for a Trailblazer that had what looked like the exact same part.

Define your starting issue - I'm having a very stubborn long crank time but it starts every time.

I also had the stalling issue - I replaced the O2, MAF, PCV, and all spark plugs and wires and my issue went away. I had a slight issue with throttle at idle and in park but that was a mechanical adjustment. My dad showed me this and I don't remember the technical part names so here's my best description through words - in the engine bay, you can manually rev the engine. The object you pull on to rev the engine (brain fart on the name....) doesn't strike the plate behind it, there is actually a small "pin" that is actually the end of a bolt behind the plate. Over time, this seems to get worn down and needs to be adjusted up ever so slightly. I believe this is called the "throttle stop" but I could be wrong (let's just pretend for now it is).

Maybe we had different issues with this revving but by adjusting the idle air and that throttle stop I get ~750 rpm or so at idle once at temp and ~1000rpm in park once warm and they stay put.

Chris, this was my starting issues:


Spring/Summer/Fall, the Riv started like a champ even after 2-3 weeks without turning over.

In the Winter, then the car was used pretty much every day, it was a gamble to start.

I put the key in, turned it to the assesories/elec setting just to make sure it was not a dead battery or something else. Just knowing it was recognizing the key was comforting. Then I would try to turn over the engine. It sounded like it wanted to start but wouldn't turn over.

So I got new sparks, wires, and just had the area looked at. Picking it up from the mechanic, the car would always turn over like it wasn't a problem. It really seemed to always happen when I needed to go to work in the morning. I figured it might be a cold starting issue or the fact that my driveway is not flat but a small 5-10% incline versus the mechanic's flat lot.

I got into the habit of having the key in the first setting and then when turning over I quickly and with some force turned it over and it seemed to work most times. Oddly enough, when all else failed and I was about to bum a ride, I gave it one last go and it started. It was a real pissah. Having tought it was a key problem I had a new ignition and key made. Still there was an issue.

There was a time in the Spring this past year when I couldn't get it started and called AAA for a tow. The kid who came used to work for GM as a mechanic and told me about ignition coils and to have them looked at. He was also the same guy who towed me before and wondered why I was still having an issue after having work done. And what made it more awkward for all of us was that the car started right up when the tow truck guy came. I felt bad seeing as with AAA you pay the guy, so I gave him a few bucks for a coffee. He appreciated it.

The new mechanic that did find out the issue took the car out for dinner with his wife to try it out. He said there was no problem but returning it to him within the week got him exploring other causes leading to him finding the ignition switch wires being loose.

Thanks Chris! I need to check out my PCV valve. Where is ours located? Same place as this how-to vid?
And for O2 sensors do we have 2 or 4, I've seen vids for both?

"so if your car has 65-75k miles on it it's time to check your PCV valve"

AutoFocus- Change your PCV Valve video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbhVuZSde_A

Thx, please add the mileage and date figures when you can.

The thread has been merged to the appropriate location. My advice for troubleshooting any further issues is to search and post in the threads related to your specific concerns.

PCV valve location: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t8202-pcv-valve-location

Some of my receipts did not have the odometer listed but I included the instances that did.

Mind you most of these 'fixes' were 'what-if' repairs to get at the big problem, not sure if in fact they were in need of replacing or just aged and looked like it was a good idea to replace.

We have one O2 sensor. It's a pain in the butt location between the firewall and in the exhaust manifold....good luck getting to that without a special tool, had to have it taken to my dad while at work to get it out with any degree of grace or dignity. I didn't want to break something while just trying to remove a sensor....

And the PCV valve is highlighted in the following picture. You have to remove two bolts to access it (make sure the engine is COOL before removal).



I did it myself in about 10 minutes and the valve is 5$ at an auto parts store. Just make sure the replacement faces the same direction as the original one.

Had my Riv since '04 had 74k on it, now I have 155k and still Runs great!

Thanks, Rick. Have you needed to fix anything during that time?

Anyone have 466,000 miles worth of Rivs? See updated signature

My 99 continues to roll on. Took a trip to Greensboro NC and drove 462 miles on 16.2 gallons which works out to 28.52 MPG.

Also drove the 97 some this week and noticed that it had crossed the 200k mark. It needs some work on brakes, shocks, and some new tires.

I was thinking about this last night because I need a way to justify, in my mind, why it is ok to go from a 67k riv to a 125k riv.

The reason I came up with is because the miles are like levels. Of course you want a higher level Riv. It proves strength/durability and the responsibility of the owner.

Can't wait to see who will be the first to break 300,000 miles. That's an ultra strong Riv

I've always associated a car's mileage with exercise (in human terms). If a car is "kept in shape" with frequent maintenance, check-ups, cleaning, the right "diet" of fuel and fluids, and perhaps most importantly being driven on a regular basis, the car will likely last many years - like a person of old age who's exercised their entire life, ate well, and kept themselves in good physical health. But if the car's owner didn't take steps to maintain the car's condition, or let it sit in one spot too long, there's a good chance it just rot away. High mileage on a car that is many years old is evidence that the owner drove the car frequently, and kept it in good mechanical health.

My car is sort of a Jack Lalanne, or could be in a few more years. 235k miles, and I ran her around a track last week. It's probably psychological, but I feel like the car is stronger now than before. Maybe it's the assurance I have knowing the car can still be pushed to her limits at this age, and not have any problem. Like you say, the car is on a new 'level'.

From a value perspective, miles don't hurt cars as much as years, imo. There must be some fact to this, because in quoting the average car's value (KBB or insurance quote), the year of manufacture weighs much heavier than high mileage. Also, a car that's 15 years old, but only has a few thousand miles isn't worth much more than a high-mileage car of the same age. A car that's only a couple years old, but with high miles, can sell for a good amount.

manofmany wrote:

190k. Approaching 200,000

New idler pulleys, tie rod ends, and a door handle in the last 9k.

207k miles.

Replaced LIM gasket with a revised metal gasket, heater core, and another fuel pump since my last posting. The car has been incredibly reliable and I'm not scared to drive it anywhere. I drive 80 miles 5-6 days per week. 50 of those are highway miles.

sburch23 wrote:

Anyone have 466,000 miles worth of Rivs? See updated signature

My 99 continues to roll on. Took a trip to Greensboro NC and drove 462 miles on 16.2 gallons which works out to 28.52 MPG.

Also drove the 97 some this week and noticed that it had crossed the 200k mark. It needs some work on brakes, shocks, and some new tires.

ahem Ihave about 475000 miles worth of rivs now 239k,119k and 117k....

Turned 250k miles a few days ago. I bought the car with 24.5k in mid 2003. Here's my repair list, all listed in miles:

-alternator bad at 35k (replaced under warranty)
-SC/acces belts 45k
-HVAC blower control module at 85k
-idler/tensioner pulleys at 85k
-cat converter died at 95k
-head unit at 100k
-passenger front hub/bearing at 105k
-struts and shocks at 110k
-ignition wires at 120k
-transmission rebuild 151k
-driver front hub/bearing 170k
-instrument lamp out 194k
-new battery 200k
-alternator 2nd replacement 200k
-replaced SC belt tensioner + pulley 205k
-new fuel pump 222k
-motor & cradle mounts mounts 224k
-struts 2nd replacement 224k
-radiator & water pump 236k
-rear shocks 2nd replacement 242k
-ignition wires 2nd replacement 246k
-engine rebuild 247k
-fuel door hinge repair 248k

Car is running great, almost ready for another Ohio winter.

charlieRobinson wrote:

I heard the same after I changed my LIM elbows, went away within seconds though. I only heard it once when I pulled out of the driveway in reverse for a test run.

I keep Hearing LIM can you emphasize on what this is? I have a 98 i love this car alot it has 155K miles and so far i have replaced:

Supercharger Coupler and Oil (which is very stinky lol)
Idler tension pulley and belts
New pads and rotors plus one new rear caliper becasue it froze.

What else should i consider doing or at least look over?

Im pretty mechanicaly inclined but i notice the riviera has a little more maintanence and doing certain things are a little different than usual (Like damn near dropping the engine to replace belts and pulleys).

LIM = Lower Intake Manifold

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t480-automotive-acronyms