FAQ: High Mile Club - Wear/Repair Reports

Here's a little more info for this thread.
If you have not yet, have a look at

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7116904398357053803&hl=en

It has some info about hte riviera, IIRC that the car has an engineered design life of 150,000 miles, that might be informative to us. Happy viewing.

The maroon paint has come off my steering wheel where I usually hold it. Wondering if any of you have tried that vinyl paint they sell at AutoZone to repaint or touch up that wheel, or other vinyl surfaces. Please comment, and thanks.

albertj wrote:

Here's a little more info for this thread.
If you have not yet, have a look at

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7116904398357053803&hl=en

It has some info about hte riviera, IIRC that the car has an engineered design life of 150,000 miles, that might be informative to us. Happy viewing.

"The concept car you can put in your driveway........What a concept!"

Hah I love Buick advertising.

A year ago, at 117K miles, my starter suddenly died. I'd turn the key and it would try to start, but if I released it released. Naturally I was out of town on my way to something important-- I had to HOLD the key on and drive that way. You'd be surprised how tired your fingers get doing that. The dealer replaced the starter, but said they found a fried wire in there... and wanted huge $$$ to diagnose. I said No. They said it was not their problem if the car caught on fire on my way home.... but I digress.

Anyway, ever since then my security light is on. And, my lights started to turn themselves off at night, if I got near fluorescent lights (ie at drive throughs). Eventually, the lights simply would not turn on by themselves, I just have a security light that is ALWAYS on, and if I want my headlights on, I have to pull the knob. I did notice there is a kelly green wire, that I can see running along the outside of the dash, visible only when the drivers side door is open. Some googling led me to a wiring diagram, and it did not show any green wire in the dash- the only green wire should be under the back seat for the alarm.

But anyway after the starter died, my security light has been on ever since. I'm not sure if it's related to the starter or the wiring, but thought I"d mention it.

I know we've had quite a few more people join this summer, lets hear your story!

Not sure Miss Beth, but your post reads like you have a VATS problem. VATS is the theft deterrent system in the Riv, it works by measuring the resistance of a little plug in the ignition key. The problem (according to Doug, one of the mechanics at the dealership I go to) is that there are a couple wires in the ignition switch that fail over time. I had an '89 volvo (uses a GM steering column) that had the same problem at about the same mileage. What a coincidence. Anyway, I had Doug replace my ignition switch at ~160,000 miles.

About that green wire - if you have the optional cell phone package installed - it was a dealer install and one of the power wires is often run by drivers side. What they were supposed to do is pull the trim panels and put it underneath. Some folks don't. Open the fuse panel door (also on drivers side) - see if that green wire runs to a little brass clip that's wedged into one of the fuse sockets. That's where that cell phone gadget was supposed to connect. Concerning your problem , though, that green wire is a red herring. (red What? google "meaning of 'red herring' " to see)

Overall I see bigger issues here that's not your fault exactly. One is that it usually does not make a whole lot of sense to a dealer to work on high mileage cars. If only because most of their business is going to be warranty work on lower mileage cars, so that's what the mechanics are 'up' on and that's what they usually have parts handy to fix. Don't take it personally when the price is really high - for some dealers it's the only way to say that it's time for you to find an independent mechanic or work on it yourself because they can not tell you that directly.

Second my experience is that in higher mileage cars I get these 'one time' failures that are unusual, tough to diagnose, and occur in systems that are installed in the cars in ways that are often not at all that simple to reach, let alone fix. Again, not your fault.

Third is that in our cars the electrical system is such that optional equipment can be installed but if not installed carefully can cause other systems (the computers, I think there are 5: the PCM, ECU, MALL, cruise control, and ABS module) to fail. Usually what happens in the optional equipment causes current leakege that fools one or another computer by sending false signals or moving a voltage or current value out of range. And silly stuff like corrosion on the car's ground straps can make the computers *look like* htey are failing when in fact they are not. THese problmes are not unique to the Riviera. Not exactly your fault - it's part on you if you're installing stuff to know what you're doing and part on the ehicle designers to accommodate accessories. In my experience relays and diodes can get me designed around most problems.

With all this said, what to do? it depends. I'm not in a position to tell you what to sdo. Seems to me, though, if you are not up for fixiing it yourself, time to ask friends/acquaintances with higher mileage cars to refer you to an independent mechanic. not necessarily to Firestone or ProCare or Meineke or what have you - more like to Eddie's Garage or what have you. The problem here is that some of the diagnosis that you need will require a "Tech II" which is a little computer that GM dealers have that connects to the car. Some independents ahve them. Without it many diagnostics can not be run, which will leave the mechanic to gues at the problems and just replace parts based on the guesses. Problem with taht is, if the parts are one of the computers or interface with the computer, then they may not be able to initialize the part so that it will in fact work. Truthfully there is usually a work-around, but you'll need the factory manual to find many of htose. (check e-bay).

Mileage : 91k

"Major" repairs needed (outside of wear items):ZERO

Original engine/transmission?yes/yes

Any other relevant information: looks like there is "sometimes" a slow radiator leak, but nothing major at all. oh, and the traction control module needed to be replaced. Not bad at all for a car that sat for more than 8 months...

Just an update from me. Yesterday the Riviera passed the 200,000 mile mark! My cell phone camera was giving me fits, and I didn't get a chance to take a pic of the odometer until 200,008 miles, but close enough. Should've brought my real digital camera along...

200,000 miles and still going strong.

I just turned 238000 miles on my 1997 Riv, and it runs awesome.

1. 122,000k got with a/b 87k in 11/05
2. Radiator b/c car backed into me, new h2o pump, coupler, new air shockes b/c air ride moter took a shit.
3. all original
4. 2nd owner

'95 Riv

96K bought it with 64K in '06

In the year and a half i've owned it, I had these things go wrong....

Radiator leak, replaced by Buick. ABS failed, not replaced. SC boost solenoid replaced, alternator replaced, 2 coil packs and plugs and wires, driver side power window switch, harmonic balancer replaced, belts replaced 3 times because my Riv liked eating them once a month until the mechanic decided hey maybe I should of changed the tensioner in the first place. New brake pads in June '07. Tranny flush and service.

Things that are still wrong with the Riv. Supercharger has needed to be replaced for the last 20, 25K miles...but Buick wants to charge me over 2 grand....and thats ridiculous. The tires need replaced, an alignment, and new shocks and struts. there is a small oil leak and tranny fluid leak but I keep on top of the fluids. The tranny now dosent like to shift when the car has been cold overnight and accelerates very slowly until at full running temp. The heated seat no longer heats up either. My sunroof sometimes will not open, but will still tilt to vent. and I seem to have shorted out something when the alternator went because now my lights flicker a little bit

Diamond White 90 Buick Riv with 215K miles. Still running strong!

I bought my Riv with 100k on it and now I have driven it to 157K.

my 95 has only 89,000 and it's my daily driver and since last year when my dad handed the keys over to me ive only put on about 3,000 miles since i really only use it to drive to school and work but it drives like new it has had no engine problems but the electrical stuff like the traction control, and abs are really the only problems ive had but the maitnence is killing me.

i bought mine with 168,640 now it has 168,642 LMAO yea im not kidding eather

I have had the car five or six years. 99 bought with 60K. Now have 133K. Only problem is broken antena motor. Antena is in the up position, radio works fine. Not to concerned.

I have had the car five or six years. 99 bought with 60K. Now have 133K. Only problem is broken antena motor. Antena is in the up position, radio works fine. Not to concerned.

I am thinking about replacing my radiator because I notice that my car runs a bit warm in the summer, and when idling yesterday (waiting for my son after a track meet, I beat him to the car) it idled a bit warm (one tick beyond the middle instead of one tick under) although it was like 25 deg. F out.

Is this overkill? Should I just replace the T-stat? what do you think?

I would not do tstat or radiator to solve this problem. If you are sitting, idling, the fans are more than enough to cool it back down. Do you hear the electric fans coming on?

Turns out the "run warm" probably was the accessory belt idler pulley failing. It finally seized & I replaced it. Guess what. With the replacement, operating temp pretty much went back to normal.

We'll confirm this, this spring.

Albertj

Idler pulley should be the one of first things we look at on the 3800 when we notice something wierd happening ie; cooling problems, dimming lights, squealing noise, etc. it seems to be a weak point in the serpentine set up...this is not the first time i've heard about similar cooling problems.

AlbertJ I notice your avatar is of Niagara Falls where are you from? I was raised in LaSalle area of Niagara Falls NY but reside in Sandusky Ohio now.

BKRIV wrote:

Idler pulley should be the one of first things we look at on the 3800 when we notice something wierd happening ie; cooling problems, dimming lights, squealing noise, etc. it seems to be a weak point in the serpentine set up...this is not the first time i've heard about similar cooling problems

great point, the OEM plastic idler pullies are very common failure points and they should be replaced with the metal version.

About the idler pulleys: anyone know where to get billet aluminum ones? I have seen one source:

http://www.rjcracing.com/RJC_Buick_Products/RJC_Billet_Alum__Pulleys/rjc_billet_alum__pulleys.html

Must be others.

About my avatar: I now live in Painted Post, NY. I travel a lot for work and sometimes for fun. Avatar of the falls is a snapshot I took last year, sunset on a summer day, looking from the Canadian side back to the US. Picture was not photoshopped, it looked like what you see on the pic. That day, spouse and I went to a Brazilian barbecue not far from the Skylon for dinner.

Albertj

racinfan wrote:

1. 64,000
   
2. Idler pulley, accy belt, trans fluid/filter
   
3. All original
   
4. I've put about 10k on it so far. Stupid power antenna currently inop.
   

An update since 4/07.
1.86,000
2.Replaced all other pulleys w/metal, rear pads/rotors.
3.Still original
4.Racking up 500+mi per week with little drama and getting 27+mpg (in the winter!)