Custom Adjustable Front Coilovers for All Years (fabrication required)

That looks awesome
So the original spring is gone and now the shock tower is holding the rear weight of the car now? That's some pretty serious re-engineering, risky no?

no,i dont think so. if i see any rippling ill weld in steel.simple. dont forget the quarter panel on these cars are pretty stout.besides,the upper oem shock mount is reinforced.i left in the oem steel plate and the upper mount is made of 1/4 steel.all sandwiched together and stupid strong.

Lets see some drifting

So your bilstiens needed a 7" spacer down from where the OEM rear shcoks mounted, and I see this time with the Koni coilover you have it right up against the stock mount point. (Which renders any concern I had about deflection moot.) Is the Koni setup a bit taller then that you don't need such a spacer at the top? or is it your new bracket at the bottem that addes a bit of height?


And concerning the added stress of removing the stock spring, when I do mine I intend to tie the tops of the shocks together with a tower brace, as well as add in some cross bracing in the trunk. Its not like there is anything in the truck of my riv anyway.

Good morning!    
The Koni setup is roughly the same height. The body of the Koni is a little shorter than the Bilstein so i can run it a little lower in the car.I also dropped the car about an inch and change.My goal is 2 inches. The Koni has circlip channels machined into the body to allow you to place the coilover sleeve up and down the body in 3 different locations.Neat.I have the circlip in the middle local,I might move it to the bottom local to see how things look and ride.Right now its ok.I have to trim my quarter panel extensions a little because the tires are kinda close to the rim of the extension.

There is absolutely NO stress to the shock tower at all!  If you peel back the carpet you'll see that GM has a sheet of steel running from the OEM upper shock mount down to the floor of the trunk. really strong.  I took her for a little spin and I felt no issues whatsoever.

Regarding possible camber issues from dropping the rear..None.Because the rear control arms are mounted longitudinally. The tire remains true and perpendicular to the road.They were mounted this way imo to keep things straight when the auto height kicked in.

My initial driving impression on smooth roads the car drives really nicely.Very smooth and controlled. You can feel everything the car is rolling over but in a good way.not harsh or stupid feeling like when you're in a jap car that is lowered by way of cut springs and over compressed shocks and struts. This set up is taylor made to operate on a lowered car.The struts have they're close to 5 inch compression working range as do the rears.  With the rear shocks being hard mounted via spherical bearings and over the rough stuff,I do feel some more nvh but I can live with that.
The Riv is still a heavy car and knows how to keep things planted.The almost complete package has me stubbornly fighting G-forces in the corners.  Before,the tires and body sent out alarms if I went into corners too fast.Not any more.
All that remains for me to do is to replace the rubber bushings with sphericals bearings,and install Nascar sway bars front and rear. Then the package will be complete and I can then concentrate on body and paint.

Driving impressions with the front and rear in synch:Awsome.

robotennis61 wrote:

Driving impressions with the front and rear in synch:Awsome.

...so now it's time for the body & paint thread.

..anyday now...soon..many projects on the burner

robotennis61 wrote:

..anyday now...soon..many projects on the burner

Can you at least get us some pics of where you left off so we can keep prodding at you for more?

id love to my man but my car looks like a heap o dog doo right now. my friends proclaim shame when they see me drive up! they run and hide and refuse to ride

robotennis61 wrote:

id love to my man but my car looks like a heap o dog doo right now. my friends proclaim shame when they see me drive up! they run and hide and refuse to ride

Well props to you for keeping it out on the road and driving it!

so whats this look like slammed? STANCE BRO wooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

its not really slammed.just lowered a little under 2"s.i might drop it to about an inch more.as is it rides great.

robotennis61 wrote:

its not really slammed.just lowered a little under 2"s.i might drop it to about an inch more.as is it rides great.

awesome! I just looked at a Slammed Audi A6 Wagon tonight. It handles amazing but i just can't go to a euro car.. sofa king gay

Ok, so a parts list recap.

Do you have the link for this?


A link for the pillow ball mounts? And the blue pieces?


A link for the Eibach springs you used?

@ charlie robinson,uh,go to page one my man

robotennis61 wrote:

@ charlie robinson,uh,go to page one my man

No links! and no part number for the uni strut kit either!

no links.
go to, performanceshock.com
everything you need is there.
i put the ordering info on page one.
no links.ya just got to read.

Sweet. Thank you. Has anyone other than Robo successfully converted to coilovers?

charlieRobinson wrote:

Sweet. Thank you. Has anyone other than Robo successfully converted to coilovers?

NO!!!!!

Not yet.


"The kit and all supporting accessories are distributed by, PSI performance shock inc. the dealers name is BO,and he can be reached @ (707) 938-5664"



Price and part list. Thats what I'm gettting, but with 350lb front and 300lb rear springs.

And that part list is for 95-99?

Only variable is what spring rates you want?

The entire coil-over package is only 97+. I'm doing other things to convert my front end to the 97+ design. (as did Robo)

Spring rates are variables, and I suppose you could go with a diferent vendor race strut insert if you really wanted...

the kit can be made to fit all years.only difference between series 1 and series 2,is the bolt hole spacing on the strut tab.the spacing is closer together on the series 2.

robotennis61 wrote:

the kit can be made to fit all years.only difference between series 1 and series 2,is the bolt hole spacing on the strut tab.the spacing is closer together on the series 2.

Ah, so for series one you would just drill the tabs differently. Good to know. I'm still doing the conversion. I want big brakes.