ticking (tocking) sounds opinions :)

Since I grabbed my mustang, I've lent the riv to my sister, who drives like a bat out of hell apparently, now I have a problem.
Upon cold start, there is a horrendous tocking noise, that increases with rpm, and sounds like a valve sprint is flying around in there. It gradually quiets and then disappears, symptomatic of not being oild or not enough oil. But everything seemd fine, and coolant was disappearing with no leaks. I've checked the oil for coolant and the oil itself is being changed now. On a side note, (looking out the windshield) the front right control arm bushing is all but gone, and the left front inner/outer tie rods are the same.
Is there enough suspension flex to allow that pully inside the motor mount to hit or cause problems, and wtf do I check for the tocki8ng, it seems to move, so do I check...the oil pump...the valve springs...or what.

Sorry for the long or jumbled post, andriod phone :/ and thanks for any advice given, I appreciate it very much so

# 1, fix the tie rods. #2,check the H.B.#3, if you can see the control arm while looking out the windshield,cut your neck off. its too long.

Ha-ha-ha...

I'm looking to buy a 95 Riv soon, and one that I checked out recently had a tocking noise in the engine at idle and low rpms. wanting to know what i'm getting myself into, I did lots of research on the internet; to a Riviera owner, it is known that it requires premium fuel and high octane fuel. Maybe your sister used regular fuel while she borrowed it unassuming of octane's importance to the L67.

idk, maybe you could ask her if she recalls what fuel she pumped during that time.
best of luck

pirateofnazo wrote:

I'm looking to buy a 95 Riv soon, and one that I checked out recently had a tocking noise in the engine at idle and low rpms. wanting to know what i'm getting myself into, I did lots of research on the internet; to a Riviera owner, it is known that it requires premium fuel and high octane fuel. Maybe your sister used regular fuel while she borrowed it unassuming of octane's importance to the L67.

idk, maybe you could ask her if she recalls what fuel she pumped during that time.
best of luck

The noise at statup that goes away sounds like a valve problem. It could just be wear and tear, and it could be that somebody blew off one or more oil changes. Riv has hydraulic valves and if they are not filling right (goo in the oil passages) they stick and tick. Valves that are somewhat worn may tick a bit at cold start then quit ticking in a few seconds as they fill.

Noise at idle and low rpms might be an off-square valve spring (which can be remedied by pulling the valve covers, cranking engine until the noisy valve is off its seat, then rotating the noisy spring (and valve) until it's quiet. But if the spring is off-square by more than 1/16 inch you really need to replace it.

Noise at all RPMs, you are into a top end rebuild. Valves to correct the lash at least; possibly worn push rod(s) and rocker arms; possibly worn camshaft (hint here is the push rods and valve rockers look OK on a noisy engine).

Albertj

robotennis61 wrote:

# 1, fix the tie rods. #2,check the H.B.#3, if you can see the control arm while looking out the windshield,cut your neck off. its too long.

Hah, funny! You know what I meant though
No, after blowing the original motor, I made damn sure 91-93 oct was used. Its a 2000 gtp motor now.
Could it possibly just be lifters? Or would that not make that much noise. I can probably upload a vid tomorrow after it sits all night tonight. Like I said, it goes away after being at temperature for about 10 mins, so I was thinking valves too, but is there anyway to check for sure, without pulling them? Gaskets cost money to replace just would rather not spend it if I don't have too. If I do, whatever
Oh and the balancer wasn't jumping around or shaking or anythings, but ill futher inspect it anyways.

I had a nasty ticking that i tracked down to cracked headers in the rear. after the headers heat up the sound went away somewhat...check the headers...

I agree with robo.... Any exhaust leak will sound like a ticking and it will slowly disappear once the manifold heats up. It's probably your cheapest potential issue so I'd check to see if you have a leak there. After that, possibly valvetrain...

As someone who had an outer tie rod snap off an inner and lose steering with one wheel, definitely DO replace that worn suspension/steering parts on that Riv first.