My L67 swap from LesabreT.com

Yeeeeeah that might be cool!

If nothing else, you would have the one and only. Nicely done, I might add.

Z-type wrote:

No, I didn't name it . I didn't even have a project name for it. The Lesabre has always been called 'the red car' because we have so many cars to begin with. And good point about the bar code. I didn't realize that's what it was for until recently. Luckily, my car doesn't need emissions because of the Classic license plate, at least in PA. I have everything installed and in place in case it ever does though!

What do you think would be a good name for it?

Candi?

Brandy?

Danielle?

I like Danielle. I'll have to ponder on that....


Hey, does anyone know if the Aeroforce Interceptors work on the Series I / OBD 1.5?

I'd like to get one either way...if it doesn't work on my T-type I'll use it on my SSEi.

Thanks Aaron....don't know how I missed that in the search. But cool...now I know. At least my Actron works....gives me all of the listed parameters that the Aeroforce would have.

I guess I'm more concerned with being able to read KR on my SSEI.For some reason,my Actron won't show KR on OBDII.

Thanks again!

From LesabreT.com:


Hello all,

Another update on the project. I got the engine torn down for modifications today. Didn't take me long, but I'm not done either. I still have to remove the valve covers (the rear one ) to do the new rockers but since I don't have the rockers yet, that can wait. Anyway, pictures!

Hood removed once more.


Draining coolant to try and avoid later messes with the LIM.


Hmmm...oil on the supercharger gasket. PCV problem, methinks.




LIM removed.



LIM and fuel rail (thank goodness for the fuel line quick disconnects). The lines were still holding pressure too! I haven't driven this thing for over a month.


Stuffed the head ports with lint-free rags until I get the new, ported, non-walled LIM on there.





Just a reference picture to compare to the porting my friend is doing on the supercharger later on.




In other news, I have a 2.5" pulley on the way - should be here Monday or Tuesday. I also just got done talking with Ryan at GMtuners.com (Sinister Performance) and I have a new PCM tune on the way as well. Still trying to find a '93 non-walled LIM to install, but that's the least of my worries. I have to get some cash to buy the new rockers!

Need Cash NOW ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbGw3A9Dg-Q

Curse you Dave! Now that song will be stuck in my head for the next 3 days. I didn't even listen to it!

I couldn't resist

By the way, your work is looking good my friend.

Lol Thanks Dave...the compliment makes up for your dirty business.

Progress! Got my 2.5" pulley in the mail today.



Because I was bored and can't do ANYTHING else on the car until I get an LIM and rockers, I put some new O-rings on things. The PCV valve:


The LIM metal coolant line under the alternator:


And just for fun, here's the nest I have to dig through to get to the rear valve cover, sooner or later. I guess it won't be as bad once I take the alternator off.


That's all for now - like always, I will update when something significant happens!

Andrew, your work is looking very nice. Can't wait to see your success!

Thanks Charlie! I've been following your thread as well!

And it's a little odd having the engine apart....again...but it'll be well worth it!

In addition to my post above, I have a small pile of all new gaskets for the engine parts I removed and tomorrow I'll be getting the supercharger ready to send off to Karma! I can already feel the POWAAAA.

Looks like the blower has made it to Karma's place, much quicker than I anticipated. Though there are reports of a damaged box. I'm interested to see what he heck happened to it...

In other news, I finally got a hold of the guy I'm getting a '93 LIM from, so I should be seeing that in two weeks or so to begin porting it.


Progress!

Right. So Andrew(Z-type) wanted me to document everything... So the following 47 pictures is me documenting everything.

So this will be SC work as normal a la Karma. Sounding something like this:

But with a few changes, since these thing seem to evolve each time its done. (For the better I promise!)



The damage to the box as I recieved it:


You can see the stickers that aparently is the official way to repair damage at the post office:


Ok, so here is the extent of the hole without the "Official Sticker Repair" holding it together:

It actually looks like someone kicked in the side of the box, but more on that later.

Opening things up:



We can see the pulley nestled in here. It looks like in transit the pulley got dinged against an edge on the supercharger:


Not really anything to worry about though.

The SC in the box:


And the inside of the hole:


Below is where it gets interesting. You can see that the bubble wrap was pulled apart at the seams just inside the hole. My theory is that someone deliberately kicked in the side of the box, and then pulled apart the bubble wrap to see what was in it.(IE. If they wanted to seal it.)


Lucky for us, they didn't deem it valuable. The SC is undamaged and ready for work.

So here are the box contents ready to be worked on:


Here are some parts that I've made for working on the M62 SC. Two end plates that bolt onto the SC so I can easily hold it square in the mill, as well as to make it easy to move and measure the angles needed for the output triangle. The long bit of rod is what I use for pressing in new needle bearings, it has the end turned so that all I do is press it flush with the case, and the bearings will be recessed to exactly the stock depth.


So first to changing the pulley:

A bit of cut rubber to protect the pulley and a special wrench makes this easy.

With the nut off, a normal pulley puller is used to pull it off:

Everyone remembers that the M62 is a keyed pulley rather than a pressed on one like the M90 right? Good.

And the pulley off:

Who painted this charger with the pulley on it? Andrew...

Comparing the two pulleys:

Left the new 2.5", right the stock 2.8"

Then I cleaned up the threads with a special tool:


And pulled the new pulley on:


Here is using a standard machine shop approved turkey baster and hose arrangement to pull out all the SC oil:

I will refill with new SC oil, since this stuff was pretty nasty. I guessing z-type added new fluid when he did his coupler, but sometimes it takes a bit to flush out the old gross stuff.

Removed the bypass actuator:


SC housing bolts:


Heres a trick if the rotor pack is stubborn. Use a bit of wood thats small enough to not touch the rotors and gently tap from the inside.


Especially if the SC has been painted, it can be hard to get that first "break free". In this case I was hoping to get both the rotor pack and snout out of the case without breaking the paint line between snout and rotor pack. Since the coupler was new and there is no point in wreaking the paint.


And out!:


And bagged!:


Inside shot: normal carbon buildup, needle bearings actually look pretty good, normal bore scoring; but no evidence of rotor flutter or back shifting, which is good.

(I will be pressing in new needle bearings anyway after all the machining, etc.. so they are clean with no burs or alum dust in them.)

More shots:




And more parts off, bypass plate removed, and rod removed from bearings. These bearings are a pain to remove and are really not a high wear part so I usually just plug them up when working on the SC and leave them in.



Cleaned up the throttle body surface: It looks like there was a bit of a coolant leak here. With machined surfaces, always be sure to use care when scraping off gasket and other material so you don't gouge it.


And the end plate on the now cleaned up TB surface:

Normally I use the TB bolts that belong to the SC, but I forgot to ask for them to be sent. So fortunately I had some other ones of the correct thread and pitch.

And the rotor pack end ready for end-plate:


And bolted on:



Now the bottom of the SC wasn't in the greatest shape. I know many people use scotch brite pads and power tools to clean up the surface, but I must caution this: Scotch Brite pads come apart as you use them. Never use them to clean up the the machined surface on engine heads whilst the heads are still on the car. You will get tons of little abrasive bits falling into your engine. The chances are high of them eating a bearing. Also when using any kind of power tool for cleaning up a machined surface(short of a milling machine), you will end up with low points and scratches. Alumn is pretty soft and under heat the surface will lap together. Visually it will seem flat, but when you put a straight edge onto the surface you will see the lowpoints. This can lead to sealing issues. Do some people not take as much care and have no problems? well yes. Though I prefer to have things as perfect as possible.

This blower has some marking on it:

(Z-type what did you use? )

I mostly fixed it with a special lapping tool designed for machined surfaces:

Its basically a perfect machined square stick with very high grit abrasive on it. Proper use can restore a machined surface bringing everything back to spec. Once machining on this blower is done, I'll probably have another go, though right now its pretty good:


And another thing of note, take care with the alignment pegs:


Not earth shaking, but something to watch.


Anyway, moving on, lets get this sucker in the mill. Had to use the old bridgeport again, since the others had jobs set up in them

Mounted:



Checking thats its square:


Checking the casting square that it matches. Sometimes a casting can surprise you here.


This one is good. So next step is knock out the bolt bosses:


Then depth and skim the extents of the pocket. From there, I back up around half the "wall" at the far end since I want extra material on the insert piece there. And run the whole pocket 1/8" bigger with the exception of the snout end.



All done and ready to move onto the insert plate. I've changed up my order of operations here from past SC's to end up with what I hope to a much better outlet shape. What exactly I mean by that will become clear once I move onto the plate, attach it in, and actually do the triangle.



And here is where I had to stop for the weekend. Sit tight z-type, it will be a couple of weeks before I get a chance to get back to the shop and continue.

dats dope!

Woo yeah, it's awesome you're making so much progress already! Thanks a ton Andrew!

I can't believe what some people do to other people's things. I'm so disgusted with so much of society I want to punch something. And my pulley is BRAND NEW! Now I have to paint it when it gets back here...

And to reply to some 'questions' in the post ...

-Yeah, I painted the blower with the pulley on it lol. I didn't have a choice at the time.

-I did change the supercharger oil, and I thought I got a lot of the grime and gunk out of there, but yeah...what you just pulled out is pretty nasty, at best.

-I actually never did 'clean' the surface of the blower, so unfortunately those scratches were there, as were the dings in the alignment peg holes. I do suspect that the blower was off at some point before I owned my old Riviera, so it might have something to do with that.

-Yes there was a small coolant leak at the throttle body for about half an hour when i swapped the engine into my T-type. Odds are that's where that's from.

-And I'm sorry I forgot to remove that little piece of throttle body gasket lol.


All in all, I'm super impressed and grateful for the work you're doing. Can't wait to see the next update!

Update:

I found this on my bed today when I got home:


What does that label say? Inten...Intense...something?


Let's open this up:


UH OH! Mods in a box!


Dropped a good chunk of change for these, but it will be totally worth it. I can't wait!

Good stuff! Start putting money aside for the transmission. You WILL need it. I've had to accelerate my low millage engine rebuild and transmission rebuild schedule, since mine is beginning to slip on the 2-3rd shift. (Though with any luck yours will last longer with a lighter car.)

Righto. Its that time again. After a crazy bunch of months at work, I took a week off to get up to the machine shop for some head clearing machining.

So as we left things, we have Andrew's SC with a pocket cut into it and a bit of aluminum to go in there:


First thing was to get the machine clear so I could use it. There was a job that was almost done in it that is for the Gauge Research Institute at the University of Toronto. Something to do with allergens and pollen. But fortunately it had just come out, so we could move on to something more interesting.


So first a clean up of the machine and get the vice mounted up.


And here is our bit of aluminum:


What we are doing here is squaring up the piece and then bringing the length and width to match the pocket in the SC.




And done!


Now the facing surfaces need to be machined and brought down to the depth of the pocket. For this we use a fly-cutter:




And finished:




The plate then gets a 1/2" round run on the corners to match the pocket:


And done:


Once again the 100% block off plate is guaranteed to provide no performance gain at all:



Moving on; we take the insert and begin to cut the new outlet recession. Leaving enough material at the sides so that once we run its profile the material should reach its highest right at the edges of the hole in the LIM. Since the insert plate is physically larger than the hole in the LIM, there is no chance of it coming free or causing problems.







And the 1/2" round gets run around the edge:






Finished and tested:


Next is a deviation from my normal procedure. This is most likely going to be the last m62 that I do since its time to get back to work on my 2nd version gen V m90 plate and there is still that m112 Jaguar SC begging to be worked on. Because this is the "final" version, I wanted to clean up a few things. Previous m62s had the edges of the insert plate backed away from the edges just a little bit:


This version will be cold welded in first, then the outlet will be machined. This will take material off the insert plate and the SC at the same time "hopefully" ending up with a superior outlet shape.

So away we go. Part of the triangle is roughly cut out with the band-saw:


And then the pocket is prepped. Its roughed up with 80 grit sandpaper, and cleaned up with acetone:


Duct tape is added to the backs of the silencer holes to control the aluminum epoxy. The duct tape also works well because it gives the putty a place to "bulge" to as the plate is pressed in. (Since the putty really won't set properly under pressure, and we want the plate pushed as flush as possible.) You can also see the two valleys in the casting that will hold a good amount of putty.


Two snout bolts are run in part way to keep the putty out of the threads:


And mix and press:



It gets pressed in with a bit of soft wood at the top. This protects the blower and also reduces the risk that I might over tighten it and distort the rotor bores.


And dried overnight:



Now for the outlet shape. As was discovered ages ago, since the rotors have a 60 deg twist, intersect right at the peak of the triangle, and overlap each other by half the twist; The math says the triangle should be 30 deg total sweep(or 15 deg in each direction from center). This has been verified by me many a time by indicating the edge on a number of castings. Now, if I have a square edge, all I need is indicate a 15 deg angle, and run the edge.





Mounted and ready:


So each edge gets run to just kiss the casting:


Then another 1/16 or so more:


Finished and ready for the profile:




A 5/8 round works best for a number of "math" type reasons:


And I also run a edge bevel along the inside edge to make less I have to clean up by hand at the end:







And mostly done:


Now after pressing in the new pocket, it always sits a tiny bit tall since it is backed in the aluminum epoxy putty. The fix is to carefully shim up the blower so its perfectly flat:


Carefully touch off a half thou above the machined blower surface:


And clean it up:



This is now ready to be honed in to match the machined blower surface:



There are a few further things to do. The inlet still needs to have its polish up done, there are edges to be cleaned up by hand at the points of the outlet triangle, the bottom needs to be honed to perfection, it needs cleaning to remove all chips, and the needle bearings need to be changed. Also there is another custom bit to be made out of Delrin for a PCV valve oil separator. Andrew, I'm afraid that will have to wait until part 3, hopefully much shorter time between parts than 1-2.

Cheers!

Wow, that is really nice work Andrew.

Can't wait to see the end result

Holy cow, looks awesome! I'm very familiar with Hometown Hero's build from a few years ago and this looks similar, but I do see the differences you pointed out.

I cannot wait! i can feel the torque already...

And yeah I guess I should probably start saving money for a trans .

Thanks, Andrew, I owe you huge.

Um, I've got an extra M90 sitting on my shelf - it could be sitting on your shelf, Karma.

If you're willing to do another, I got dibs!