FAQ: Power Door Lock Problems

Try your best to not loose the door panel. Aside from finding a door panel at a wreckers or from places that salvage Riv parts like Morads, you may find it hard to re-locate a door panel. Whats probably happened is the door handle itself is broken. If you do a search, I believe there is a thread on doing the repair. But first you have to get the door open to remove the panel to eventually get to the door handle. Hmmmmmm?

Hello EliteOutlaw and welcome on-board!

I had a similar problem on a 1995 Riviera Supercharged (S/C) where the door locks were not working, I was unable to lock or unlock the door, after removing the door panel I noticed that the actuator was stuck and because the door lock "rail" was attached with the actuator it was not moving at all! in this case I just removed the actuator from the door lock "rail" and that fixed the problem, but I was not able to lock/unlock the door electronically only manually until the actuator was replaced, if this is the problem you have, there is one in rockauto.com for 27.89 + shipping Part #746017.

I'm sorry to hear about your door panel, that happened to me as well they are very fragile

rk0ehn wrote:

Hello EliteOutlaw and welcome on-board!

I had a similar problem on a 1995 Riviera Supercharged (S/C) where the door locks were not working, I was unable to lock or unlock the door, after removing the door panel I noticed that the actuator was stuck and because the door lock "rail" was attached with the actuator it was not moving at all! in this case I just removed the actuator from the door lock "rail" and that fixed the problem, but I was not able to lock/unlock the door electronically only manually until the actuator was replaced, if this is the problem you have, there is one in rockauto.com for 27.89 + shipping Part #746017.

I'm sorry to hear about your door panel, that happened to me as well they are very fragile

Is it possible that if you pop off the upholstered pad on the door panel you could more easily repair the door panel?

albertj wrote:

Is it possible that if you pop off the upholstered pad on the door panel you could more easily repair the door panel?

You mean the bottom part of the door panel?

on the 95' the stuck actuator was in the middle, I don't think you can have access to it from the bottom, as far a repairing the door panel it's hard to fix plastic you can melt it and stick the parts together but it might only work one time because if you have to remove the door panel in the future it will break again I would rather work with resin and some fiber glass to restore it. Although the 97 actuator is not in the middle anymore, it's actually on the door latch where you close the door, might be harder to work on though.

I thank everyone for the their response. I will search for a door panel online just in case I can't fix my original. I was hopefully maybe someone on this forum had some info where I could get one. The door handle is working fine, it's just feel like the door latch will not open. If the actuator is on the latch then I am not sure how that will be fixed. And, if it might happen to the passenger door. If anyone else out there know how to get around this please help.

EliteOutlaw wrote:

I thank everyone for the their response. I will search for a door panel online just in case I can't fix my original. I was hopefully maybe someone on this forum had some info where I could get one. The door handle is working fine, it's just feel like the door latch will not open. If the actuator is on the latch then I am not sure how that will be fixed. And, if it might happen to the passenger door. If anyone else out there know how to get around this please help.

Does the door open at all? Your post (quoted above) confuses me. It opens from the inside?

rk0ehn wrote:

albertj wrote:

Is it possible that if you pop off the upholstered pad on the door panel you could more easily repair the door panel?

You mean the bottom part of the door panel?

on the 95' the stuck actuator was in the middle, I don't think you can have access to it from the bottom, as far a repairing the door panel it's hard to fix plastic you can melt it and stick the parts together but it might only work one time because if you have to remove the door panel in the future it will break again I would rather work with resin and some fiber glass to restore it. Although the 97 actuator is not in the middle anymore, it's actually on the door latch where you close the door, might be harder to work on though.

No not the carpet on the lower panel, the soft vinyl pad on the upper panel. It will make a mess prying it off but that seems to be the one point you could get into the door to work the remote rods/door latch, get the thing open, then fix the door panel--because you can make up a new pad to go on in place of the one you chopped up and it's not impossible to match vinyl usually.

The door doesn't open at all. My mechanic took off the passenger side door panel to test things out. He was able to make it open by hand using the rods and stuff. The driver side door latch seem to be the problem. It will not release. Tomorrow he have a friend who do body work coming to try and open the car. So it seems my problem is something new on the forum. It's also a pain in the butt to deal with. The weather in NJ is getting colder and I have to ride my motorcycle to work until my problem is fixed. This is going to suck.

EliteOutlaw wrote:

The door doesn't open at all. My mechanic took off the passenger side door panel to test things out. He was able to make it open by hand using the rods and stuff. The driver side door latch seem to be the problem. It will not release. Tomorrow he have a friend who do body work coming to try and open the car. So it seems my problem is something new on the forum. It's also a pain in the butt to deal with. The weather in NJ is getting colder and I have to ride my motorcycle to work until my problem is fixed. This is going to suck.

Tale a look at the *backside* of the passenger door panel to get clues as to how to get into the driver's side with repairable damage. Are there places that make sense? Can you reach the door latch with a coat hanger if you take the cover of the inside door handle off? Have you thought of asking for help at an independent body shop (odds are at a large indie body shop they have probably seen the problem before)

Albertj

Just to update everyone on the situation. My mechanic had to call a friend that doe body work and he was able to get the door open. The latch was the true problem. It would not slip open at all. So hopefully this is one of those rare flutes that will never happen again. I hope.

Just to let everyone know. I got the problem fixed. Also, I had some aftermarket alarm kit in there and it was keeping me out the car. So I had that ripped out and tossed.

Guys!

Please excuse me if I'm doing this posting wrong. I have a 1997 Riviera w/supercharger, about 138,000 miles, overall in great shape. This morning had to move it around in the driveway and once I turned the ignition off tried opening driver's door to exit but it wouldn't open so I hit the switch nothing , then tried the key FOB nothing locking or unlocking. Used the manual flipper by the door handle to exit. Went back outside, and keep in mind I manually locked the car back cause key FOB wasn't working the doors but opens the trunk and the horn gives the locking sound one beep. Well I noticed that the seat belt red light was on and the car wasn't running and was locked. Opened the door and heard what sounded like an electric type small motor noise something like that when moving your power seats and the sound is coming from the driver's side especially close to the side fuse panel. Took the back seat out and disconnected the battery cable and then connected it back to see if that might of reset whatever it is. Nope didn't work!

If anyone has any advise as to what's causing all of the above mentioned issues I would sincerely appreciate it. I have always accessed this forum whenever I needed to learn anything and usually find the answers to whatever I need but not this time. You guys do a great job here providing opinions and that too is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

EliteOutlaw wrote:

Just to let everyone know. I got the problem fixed. Also, I had some aftermarket alarm kit in there and it was keeping me out the car. So I had that ripped out and tossed.

...good call, generally aftermarket alarms on the Riv are a Headache. If you***really*** know auto electronics and understand the Riv's floating ground there are probably no issues but if you don't you're in for it.

MusicMan wrote:

Guys!

Please excuse me if I'm doing this posting wrong. I have a 1997 Riviera w/supercharger, about 138,000 miles, overall in great shape. This morning had to move it around in the driveway and once I turned the ignition off tried opening driver's door to exit but it wouldn't open so I hit the switch nothing , then tried the key FOB nothing locking or unlocking. Used the manual flipper by the door handle to exit. Went back outside, and keep in mind I manually locked the car back cause key FOB wasn't working the doors but opens the trunk and the horn gives the locking sound one beep. Well I noticed that the seat belt red light was on and the car wasn't running and was locked. Opened the door and heard what sounded like an electric type small motor noise something like that when moving your power seats and the sound is coming from the driver's side especially close to the side fuse panel. Took the back seat out and disconnected the battery cable and then connected it back to see if that might of reset whatever it is. Nope didn't work!

If anyone has any advise as to what's causing all of the above mentioned issues I would sincerely appreciate it. I have always accessed this forum whenever I needed to learn anything and usually find the answers to whatever I need but not this time. You guys do a great job here providing opinions and that too is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

might be a worn out ignition switch - not the lock part, the electrical part that fastens behind the lock cylinder. Do you know how to check it? Only reason I can think of for the seat belt light to be on with key out is if the ig switch broke or shorted and is telling the car that it's on.

Also pull off the cover under the drivers side of the instrument panel, you may find a short to the IP support frame with arcing electrical wires or connectors. Might be a chafed wire in the steering column but unless the car was in a collision and repaired (steering column collapse and wires spliced in repair) that's not real likely.

Albertj

The drivers door lock was not functioning in my 1995 Rivier when I used the fob or the switch on the door. It worked manually and with the key. I could hear the lock doing something. When the interior door panel was removed , the mechanic found that the actuator I had purchased did not work with the lock. Apparently there is something in the mechanism (either lock or actuator) that is different if the car has the factory anti theft alarm. Anyone familiar with that?

The person doing the installation for me said that the lock had a piece break off where it screws into the actuator and it was moving so it could not function. He thought there might be another wire that plugs in also that was not present. I know that is all pretty vague, but I didn't quite get what he was saying. He tried epoxy around the screw head but it failed after a day or so.

In essence I guess I want to know if there is any differences in the lock and actuator when the car has the anti theft system. The mechanics suggestion is that I find a used lock and actuator assembly and replace everything at once.

Question....

After he epoxied it, it worked with the fob and the door switch? Then it broke again?

Yes, everything worked fine for a couple days, then it went back to the way it was, Apparently the lock mechanism or the actuator is shifting out of position. The place he epoxied was where one of the screws that joins them together had a small piec break off. This is some of the plastic around the tab where the screw goes.

I would have to say replace it again if it's broke, and it sounds like something may be binding up somewhere in the door? I would check the door latch to see if it's greased and moves freely. The lock rod could also be hanging up somewhere inside the door...the lock and handle rods run almost the entire length of the door. They're held against the door with little plastic clips that are also used as slides. If any of the rods have rusted, it would certainly bind up and put pressure on the actuator. You may need to do some cleaning and greasing...

my passenger door is locked and nothing will open it. help

firefighter wrote:

my passenger door is locked and nothing will open it. help

Ha! My '97 has the same problem on the passenger side. I'm yet to find a solution. I think I'm going to take out the trim piece behind the door handle (on the inside), and see if I can't grab ahold of the lock rod and "force" it open. It's either that or I'm going to have to break the exterior handle assembly completely off the car to get at it...

I don't know how to fix it exactly just yet.

i have solved my door locked problem.
i took my Riv to a Buick dealer they did a super repair.
$ 478.00 that included a wash job.
Firefighter

albertj wrote:

jimmyriv wrote:

My drivers door won't unlock with the key fob or the switch. I hit the power locks sometimes when parking knowing the lock doesn't work. I figure the alarm will work anyway, then if I forget and grab the door handle I set it off. (dumb)

Sounds like you need to replace the latch unit.  It's a little tight in there but not too tough.  I did one on my car (pass side) when it failed and had dealer's boy shop do the other when it failed. The new ones were a little different, I suspect it's a one-time replacement.

Albertj

I have a problem with replacing the door lock actuators on my '98 Riv.

I can't get the same OEM actuators that have failed, and the new ones do not fit.(reference photos here)
.



The dealer told me I need to get an upgraded latch assembly. There is one RH unit available new for $400+. The LH unit is not available new, and the cost of either is a budget buster, anyway. This unit is supposed to work with the newer actuators. He said '97-'99 Riv or Aurora latches that have anti-theft feature RPO code UA6 would work.
Problem is, I how can I tell the difference between those latches I have and any I might seek without numbers a salvage guy could use? That is, I need part numbers for both, I guess.

An alternative might be to rebuild the OEM actuators I have?

There is a thread from about 10 years back where Nigel talked about grafting old and replacement actuators together, here:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t8752p50-faq-power-door-lock-problems?highlight=door+lock
The thread ends without a clear explanation of how to do this.

My car was sitting for about 9 years, so it's possible they aren't worn out, but need some attention.

Anyone recall this thread, or know how to renew an old actuator?

Any advice welcome as how to proceed.

Okay, maybe someone can tell me which terminals on the door actuators I can apply power to in order to test them? I have service manuals, but limited automotive electrical knowledge.

I found a service that will rebuild the actuator, which seems not-too-hard, but need to be sure they are the actual problem with the locking system.

Thanks!