Nightmare Transmission Rebuild

Thanks for the feedback guys. I just got under the car again after driving about 150 miles today. I'm definitely losing fluid from that seal between the passenger CV and the tranny. I've had trouble with AZ CV's not fitting properly. Maybe I need to suck it up and the the actual GM part? What do you guys have in yours? Any remans? The tech at the dealership said the CV wasn't seating properly. I tried forcing it in with all my might and it wouldn't go any farther.

Couple questions.

If this CV is a poor fit by design, have I done any damage to the transmission or this seal by driving on it? I drive a lot (as of January). Sometimes up to 500 mi/week

Could me not having a rebuilt rear transmission mount have anything to do with this problem? I'd like to get it replaced this weekend.

I'm sure no damage.it's pretty tough steel down there.Call Morad auto parts,they will sell you a used OEM CV.A used unit is ten times better than a AZ part.

werdstrave wrote:

If this CV is a poor fit by design, have I done any damage to the transmission or this seal by driving on it? I drive a lot (as of January). Sometimes up to 500 mi/week

Maybe

werdstrave wrote:

Could me not having a rebuilt rear transmission mount have anything to do with this problem? I'd like to get it replaced this weekend.

Unlikely. If anything it will damage the exhaust seal from the rear manifold to the downpipe, but even that is hard to do.

Oh...I just remembered when I brought the car in for the transmission rebuild, it was diagnosed that this seal was already leaking on my old transmission. This is pointing me closer toward AZ's CV's being faulty. I've never done business with Morad. Looks like they sell used GM parts for the 3800. Sounds like I should pick up a CV from them.

I've bought axles from Morad and they work fantastic. He pulls the best looking ones from lower mileage (relatively) cars. I'd trust OEM for that and hub bearings way before I went with anything aftermarket.

Hope you get it sorted out.

I have a low-mile CV shaft purchased from Ed Morad a few months ago:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t8893-fs-front-right-axle-shaft-cv-joints-from-ed-morad-45-shipped

Aaron, seems like you did the same thing I did. I misdiagnosed and got all new (remanned) CV axles to correct the popping sound upfront. Unfortunately it was my cradle mounts (as you suggested in the first place). Such a headache. Last night I ordered 2 used CV axles from Morad to replace the remans and HOPEFULLY correct the seating issue and leak in the tranny.

I am not familiar with that union and do not fully understand why an unseated CV would cause a leak there. Would the fluid be leaking from the gasket seal there or from the hole where the CV shaft goes in?

I would replace the shaft seal for sure. It doesn't look like a difficult job, nor an expensive part.

Is there a write up on how to get the seal out and with what tools?

I found this on a saturn forum:

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157297

Would I need to drain the tranny fluid before I did this?

That's how I would go at it. No need to remove the sway bar, and would certainly have a clean catch pan ready, but I don't think a significant amount of fluid will escape.

Just ordered the seal. Plus the morad shafts are in the mail.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1022016,parttype,2336

Is there a way to get your CV axle out without loosening the suspension tower? The last few times I did them, I separated my lower ball joints and loosened my 3 suspension bolts that go into the frame. Is there a way I can do it without loosening these 3 bolts? Maybe take the A-arm off? I'm really just trying to avoid getting the car aligned.....It seems like I need to bend the suspension tower out of the way to back off the CV.

Remove the two strut bolts and swing the steering knuckle out. You can leave the lower ball joint intact. It takes some persuasion, but the shaft will come out this way, and my suspension did not require any realignment.

I thought that was where most of the alignment takes place. There's a lot of play for those bolts to move around in the notches in the strut when reinstalled....any way to guard against this?

It's possible the alignment is off slightly, but I didn't notice much play in the bolts. The ride and steering seemed unaffected, and no adverse tire wear so far. If you're concerned, might consider marking the location of the bolt caps on the strut with a fine permanent marker before removal.

DO NOT SEPARATE THE STRUT FROM THE BRACKET. Not only is it a huge PITA to do, it doesnt need to be done.

3 nuts on the top of the strut. Pop the lower ball joint. Remove wheel bearing. Slide out of way on tie rod end.

My rivi is on stands in the air. Waiting on CV axle now. $40 from Detroit axle, rebuilt.

If your CV axle isnt fitting right the spring clip could be screwed up. Or the old spring clip may be in there, somewhere? Pull it apart and inspect with a good flashlight.

Popping the lower ball joint is usually a PITA and usually results in screwing up the grease bladder. I did this and wound up needing to get a new ball joint. Ryan the way you described sounds like alignment city. I was trying to avoid an alignment at all costs. Let me know how your job goes, I am interested and will be tackling this in the weeks to come.

You know thinking about it I left the lower ball joint attached and split the tie rod end. Thanks for making me think.

Did this 3x's in my Alero and never needed an alignment.

I'm confused. You split the tie rod end from the knuckle, left the ball joint attached, and loosened the 3 nuts on top of the strut? And were able to get the axle out?

Thats correct.

Since its only attached by the lower ball joint you should be able to move it such as to pull the wheel part of the CV out of the round bracket where the wheel bearing mounts. If you are NOT removing the wheel bearing then you will probably need to pull the entire A Arm.

Im a person who learns by doing. Just dig deep and do what ya gotta do to get it done.

Wow, I would never do it that way, but to each their own. Just remove the hub, two strut bolts out, then remove the CV shaft. Took less than an hour, and I'm one who takes his time.

How hard was it to get those two strut bolts out?

Last time I did that I had a torch and a sledge hammer and it was still hard to get out... That was in a Beretta.

Alex, that makes sense. And I will mark the bolt pattern with a white out pen. I believe this is for someone who has already replaced struts. I would need a torch/sledge if I hadn't.

Something I thought of on the way home today. I actually have physical play (about 1/4 - 1/2 inch) that I can actually move the CV joint in and out of the transmission. Is this normal? If not, that could be my problem. The car is popping around turns now and sounds like the noise the axle makes when I move it in and out of the transmission hole.

Quote :

How hard was it to get those two strut bolts out?

It's really not hard on this car. Just break the nuts loose and tap the bolts out with a hammer. Using an air impact makes the job much easier.