Removing Rusty Bolts

I think it looks like my GFs vibrator.Dont know that I'd be comfortable using it???

Why would your GF need a vibrator?

Not since she met me of CouRsE!

robotennis61 wrote:

Not since she met me of CouRsE!

Now that's a good answer!

Hometown Hero wrote:

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't this thread about "Removing Rusty Bolts"? I understand the tool may not be an exact perefect fit for this manifold job. I get your method with removing the manifolds, I have also done things similar with torch. I work everyday as a mechanic (not a shade tree either) and have used that tool on alot of applications from cars up to a $400000 Case 9120 Combine. I know this tool works I've actually used it, have you? May not be ideal for the manifold job, but IT WILL REMOVE RUSTY BOLTS end of story. Not trying to start WWIII here just saying this thing is fast, effortless and it works period.

No, this thread started with Aaron asking the question about his exhaust manifolds. That is what I'm talking about, no other situation. If that tool works for you, that's great. Hardware breakage is a big problem when working on cars, especially older ones. Definitely cheaper than an oxyacetylene torch set up.

BTW, no one is trying to start WWIII. Just exchanging ideas here. That's what these car boards are all about. Sorry if you are upset.

[/quote]
No, this thread started with Aaron asking the question about his exhaust manifolds. That is what I'm talking about, no other situation. If that tool works for you, that's great. Hardware breakage is a big problem when working on cars, especially older ones. Definitely cheaper than an oxyacetylene torch set up.

BTW, no one is trying to start WWIII. Just exchanging ideas here. That's what these car boards are all about. Sorry if you are upset.[/quote]

Upset? LMAO I really could care less if you have an opinion/idea on a tool you've never laid your hands on. Thats cool with me, I could have lived without the rather primitive explanation of thermaldynamics but hey, I'll survive. As for the thread being about manifolds, mmm okay (despit the title I'll give it to you), but they are on a 455, the engine bay on any car with a 455 is anything but small. My best friend has a 1967 Olds 442 with a 455, there is plenty of room under that hood to work. I only made the WWIII comment because there were so many skeptics. If the wire on the end of the tool were bent over to 90 degrees or to the desired angle, I'm not seeing how that wouldn't work. The tools function would be the same and you don't have to deal with the bulk of the handle because it would be straight up (or down if your underneath). Maybe it would'nt work, I've never tried, but by the sounds of it nobody else has either. Makes sense and it seems like a fair suggestion to use 1 wouldn't you agree?

Hometown Hero wrote:

No, this thread started with Aaron asking the question about his exhaust manifolds. That is what I'm talking about, no other situation. If that tool works for you, that's great. Hardware breakage is a big problem when working on cars, especially older ones. Definitely cheaper than an oxyacetylene torch set up.

BTW, no one is trying to start WWIII. Just exchanging ideas here. That's what these car boards are all about. Sorry if you are upset.[/quote]

Upset? LMAO I really could care less if you have an opinion/idea on a tool you've never laid your hands on. Thats cool with me, I could have lived without the rather primitive explanation of thermaldynamics but hey, I'll survive. As for the thread being about manifolds, mmm okay (despit the title I'll give it to you), but they are on a 455, the engine bay on any car with a 455 is anything but small. My best friend has a 1967 Olds 442 with a 455, there is plenty of room under that hood to work. I only made the WWIII comment because there were so many skeptics. If the wire on the end of the tool were bent over to 90 degrees or to the desired angle, I'm not seeing how that wouldn't work. The tools function would be the same and you don't have to deal with the bulk of the handle because it would be straight up (or down if your underneath). Maybe it would'nt work, I've never tried, but by the sounds of it nobody else has either. Makes sense and it seems like a fair suggestion to use 1 wouldn't you agree?
[/quote]

Well, it's difficult to gauge someones emotional state over the internet. My impression was you were a bit upset. You are definitely getting defensive, and sarcastic now though. I'm not saying the tool wouldn't work as you say, but I'm skeptical about it working in this situation. I'll repeat that. I'm not skeptical about that tools function, or usefullness. If Aaron wants to try it, I'm all for it. As for room in the engine bay with a 455, the only thing complicating things might be the A/C lines on some cars. I'm used to working on Buick 455's. The bolts break on them all the time, and on the passenger side, the A/C lines take up a lot of room. Maybe there is tons of room in an Olds 98.

Agreed it is difficult, no offence meant on the sarcasm. It's intent was because, it's irritating to have nay sayers on a system they haven't used, when others who have used it know what it can do. Granted you have changed these before on a Buick 455 I have not, so you got me there. It just seemed like a sound solution to the problem, since I've had success in so many other cases. I'm sure AA won't use either method, and still be successful. We are just making suggestions, I simply wasn't expecting having to justify them to such an extent.

Hometown Hero wrote:

Agreed it is difficult, no offence meant on the sarcasm. It's intent was because, it's irritating to have nay sayers on a system they haven't used, when others who have used it know what it can do. Granted you have changed these before on a Buick 455 I have not, so you got me there. It just seemed like a sound solution to the problem, since I've had success in so many other cases. I'm sure AA won't use either method, and still be successful. We are just making suggestions, I simply wasn't expecting having to justify them to such an extent.

Not a problem, I'm actually interested in that tool. I'm not a nay sayer. Question. The tool creates heat through induction. So the object being heated must be surrounded by the coils, correct?

Yes exactly, you put the loop over the head of the nut or bolt you wish to remove. Turn it on, it reacts with the metal and the metal gets hot really fast. But you can stick your finger in the loop and turn it on and it will not heat up. Unless you have metal in your finger, then you have a problem. In AG there are stupid amounts of broken or rusted fasteners and these came in handy. I work Automotive now and it about as common but on a smaller scale.