high output alternator?

From what research I did a while back regarding upgrading the alt. to a higher amp output required adding an external rectifier on the back of the alternator case. This cannot be done on our cars because there is no clearance between the alternator and the supercharger.
Look at this site: www.alternatorparts.com for a visual of the high output rectifier and they also address the diameter of cable needed and specific wiring instructions.

The only thing I found was NAPA offers a reman. replacement with 150 amp output.

wrestler236 wrote:

200 to 240 amps

Planning on loading up with electronics?

absolutely! I need to run a precision power pcx1500 amp at 3 ohms and two audiobahns an a2301t and an a2601t both at 4 ohms and i don't need those lights dimming on me.

and a capacitor or 2 wont take care of that?

Hmmm maybe I already have a 1.5 Farad cap and I had the same exact equipment in a 1990 Caprice Classic (man I miss that car...) I put a 180 amp alternator in that and I still had some dimming especially at stop lights lol
At this point another cap or two might be easier and / or cheaper Im thinking, however I'm not sure if that will be the best solution

What you want to try first is to overdrive your alternator with a smaller pulley, not go bigger, 140 amp should be enough for most, but you need the alternator at speed when you are at idle.

Here are some sites with HO alternators for the Riviera:

http://www.alternatorparts.com/gm38_conversion_cs144.htm

http://www.excessiveamperage.com/price_quote.htm
I don't think they ever quoted me

http://www.highoutputalternator.com/
Quoted: 220 amp @ $589

http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Alternators/High%20Output/Buick/
Quoted: 220 amp @ $229

http://www.powerbastards.com/products.asp?cat=2488
Quoted: 240 amp @ $265

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260348027103&viewitem=#ht_1429wt_1191
This guy on ebay is selling upgraded stock version 200 amp @ $159

yeah ive been reading up on trying a smaller pulley with that link from alternatorparts.com that Rickw posted, and it seems like a pretty janky way of doing things, because if you rev the engine too hard it will damage the alternator (how hard is too hard anyway?) , I may try something like that if I go with an upgrade that isn't cutting it in idle
But it is still an option none the less...

I don't know if 140 amp will cut it in my situation anyways... I'll have one amp 2 x 75 rms watts rated @ 12v or (2 x 150 peak); another amp 2 x 150 rms watts @ 12v or (2 x 300 peak); finally 1 x 750 rms watts @ 12v or 1 x 1500 peak
the two 2-channel amps will be running at 4 ohm impedance and the 1-channel amp will being running at 3 ohm impedance, more than likely the car will being running between 14.4v to 12v of course, but I would like to keep it as close to 14.4v as possible so as to not dim the headlights

Does anyone feel like doing the math for that? lol

www.motorcityreman.com

Give them a try.

Also try Nate @ Excessive amperage again. Give him a call if he doesnt respond to email. Sometimes it works better.

To anyone wanting to go to a bigger alternator i would strongly recommend ensuring proper connections, upgrading your wiring and a good battery and capacitor.. I'm running about 2000watts RMS in total. Ive had this setup for about a year now and still have had no issues with voltage or the stock alternator dying. Just my opinion.[/img]

OntarioRivi wrote:

To anyone wanting to go to a bigger alternator i would strongly recommend ensuring proper connections, upgrading your wiring and a good battery and capacitor.. I'm running about 2000watts RMS in total. Ive had this setup for about a year now and still have had no issues with voltage or the stock alternator dying. Just my opinion.

Upgrading stock wiring is a MUST in any car before money is spent on a HO alternator.

Doing the "Big 3" in our cars has to be a REAL treat. In case you arent aware, thats the Alternator to battery, Battery to ground and Motor to ground.

If Nate @ Excessive did not get back with you give him a call. Hes a busy but good dude.

Nate also has overdrive Pulleys available. They are custom made, he is the only person on the planet with these. I put one on my Alero and its a nice increase of voltage!

Ive been runnin stock alt with 1000 watts for years now ... no probs... and dont have a cap either ... 1 Infinity 110x4 plus a crunch p2250 bridged rated at 1000 itself , dont know about that claim but its makes my Kicker Comp cvr 10 ( rated @600, thats where i got my 1000 watts from ) pound pretty good

I rebuilt my alternator with new bearings and a HD bridge rectifier from www.alternatorparts.com. I am also going to get an overdrive pulley, as even all that stuff done I still have voltage drops at idle.

deekster_caddy wrote:

I rebuilt my alternator with new bearings and a HD bridge rectifier from www.alternatorparts.com. I am also going to get an overdrive pulley, as even all that stuff done I still have voltage drops at idle.

Have you been able to fix the "Noise" after rebuild?
Also, It's good to know that you are experiencing a voltage drop at idle.
Not good for you, but what I mean is, now I know I will have to address that issue also after rebuilding my alternator.
Have you done any research into what diameter pulley to use for the alternator, so i can just order one along with all the rebuild parts.?????

Yes Rick, all this reminded me to go order the OD pulley. The stock pulley is I believe 62mm diameter. They sell that and a 54 mm pulley at alternatorparts.com, I just ordered the 54mm pulley.

Rickw wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

Nope, shouldn't hurt anything. You could also consider upgrading the alternator - I rebuilt my own with new bearings and a HD bridge rectifier from www.alternatorparts.com. I am also going to get an overdrive pulley, as even all that stuff done I still have voltage drops at idle.

Have you been able to fix the "Noise" after rebuild?

What did you do to correct the noise issue.???
Am anticipating same problem after rebuild and would like to be prepared for possible problem.

I discussed that with the guy from alternatorparts and he said it shouldn't make any noise, and possibly the internal capacitor is deteriorating. He said to go to RS and get a capacitor, and put it on the positive post outside the alternator, and that should take care of it. I'll let you know how that works out.

What type or capacity/ part number capacitor would you have to buy. ?
There are different ratings in micro farads (mf) ?
Did he specify.?

He did not specify. I'm going to have to go by looks on it - it should be a single post, I'd guess about an inch tall or so.

deekster_caddy wrote:

He did not specify. I'm going to have to go by looks on it - it should be a single post, I'd guess about an inch tall or so.

it is a 1 amp diode from radio shack from what i understand, 98riviera98 posted this link to another thread:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/audio-electronics-f7/write-up-stage-i-voltage-booster-t1610.htm

and in that thread there was another link to zzp about the DIY voltage booster, go to this link and read it gives you a pretty good idea of what to do:
https://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/articles1.php?id=48

deekster_caddy wrote:

You could also consider upgrading the alternator - I rebuilt my own with new bearings and a HD bridge rectifier from www.alternatorparts.com.

do the rivieras have the cs130d also? which kit did you get?

Rivs have the newer style large body CS144.

Their website is very difficult to navigate, but here are the last things I ordered:

Part No. 63034N

63034N 1 $9.95 $9.95
Part No. 8122

8122 1 $9.95 $9.95
Part No. 391083

391083 1 $9.95 $9.95
Part No. DR5180PF, Heavy Duty Bridge Rectifier, Fits: Delco CS-144 alternator

DR5180PF 1 $44.95 $44.95

The last item is the HD bridge rectifier, the other items are two bearings and new brushes. I used my arbor press for the bearings, and was a little troubled at how the front bearing replaced - there was a hardened sleeve around the old one that cracked, I just put a little locktite on the outside of the new bearing before I pressed it in. I don't know how you would do it without a press.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/search.aspx?find=DR5180PF

97 park ave wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

He did not specify. I'm going to have to go by looks on it - it should be a single post, I'd guess about an inch tall or so.

it is a 1 amp diode from radio shack from what i understand, 98riviera98 posted this link to another thread:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/audio-electronics-f7/write-up-stage-i-voltage-booster-t1610.htm

and in that thread there was another link to zzp about the DIY voltage booster, go to this link and read it gives you a pretty good idea of what to do:
https://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/articles1.php?id=48

Your talking 2 different things.
The diode fakes the alternator to produce more voltage at idle.
The Capacitor is for noise or static that you may hear in the radio.
There is a capacitor inside the alternator with it's own P/N and can be changed during rebuild. Derek just did not buy that particular capacitor because he wasn't having any noise issues before the rebuild. So the easy way to correct for that now is to add an inexpensive one externally.
Also, this vendor does not offer a rebuild kit for the CS144, you have to order the individual parts. They are still less expensive than NAPA.

deekster_caddy wrote:

He did not specify. I'm going to have to go by looks on it - it should be a single post, I'd guess about an inch tall or so.

How about a condenser from an older style distributor with points. Such as a Chevy 250 ci, 6 cylinder from the 60's to 70's. They must still be available at the auto parts store or that box under your bench.???

Rickw wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

He did not specify. I'm going to have to go by looks on it - it should be a single post, I'd guess about an inch tall or so.

How about a condenser from an older style distributor with points. Such as a Chevy 6 cylinder. They must still be available at the auto parts store or that box under your bench.???

Probably just the thing... I'll see what happens.