Matt's SC 97 Riviera

Sold.

Wait! Leather is out???
Shoot, I was just going to have my grandma stitch a new driver's seat!
That velour will be comfy, though. Must have the leather cracks I have.

Seat covers look nice . And I don't think I've seen an oil pan that bad in a while lol. Definitely replace ASAP. Looks like you're making good progress!!

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Mattwa wrote:

Nothing really wrong with the leather seats, a few minor cracks in the drivers side is all, just trying to keep them nice because it's my current DD and I wear semi-dirty shop clothes back home.

Here is my to do list in the near future-
-Trans fluid change, filter and shift kit.
-Oil pan, and gasket (with obvious oil change)
-Front valve cover gasket
-Complete rear brake system is toast, getting all new components. Not sure if the E-brake cables are stuck or it's the calipers themselves.
-Front rotors and pads.
-Several small things.

M90 coupler was on the list but completed today as stated, with new supercharger oil. Coupler was really bad off, the new one has made a noticeable improvement in pick-up and acceleration. No rattle either!

Sadly, I think my 4T65e-HD will need a rebuild soon, it's lived longer then average, and is starting to show some symptoms of needing it.

just a few notes:


- do both the front and rear VC gaskets
- rear brakes, take a careful look at the E Brake cable maybe you just need to lube (penetrating oil) it, but if you are replacing rear calipers anyway might be good time to replace that cable, you'll probably need the equalizer linkage (GM dealer they are not that much $$)
- if whoever replaced rear brakes before just used a c-clamp to spread them, they wacked the calipers. The hint is that the rotors are deep rusty because the calipers don't really apply. If that is how yoru rear discs look then you must get new calipers - even overhauling yours won't help because the selfadjusters would be damaged internally. Thing is, on Riv rear brakes, you have to screw the pistons back in not squeeze them, so it takes some finesses to swing the calipers up off the rotors so you can do the job. A lack of finesse means damage.
- if your trans is operating properly I'd not worry about that shift kit etc. I admit I overhauled my 4t 65 E HD at about 99,000 miles when the TCC stuck off. Well, I now have 260,000+ miles on the car. Transgo and Sonnax both offer HD parts for the HD transmission. A good rebuild is amazing - I have more miles on that transmission rebuilt than it ran new.

lotsa luck.

Albertj

-I ordered both gaskets, but was planning on doing the rear later since its a real PITA.
-Yes I know about the rear calipers needing to be screwed in, thanks though. I have no idea about the condition of the calipers other then the rotors look horrible and they are half rusty...like they barely work. I can't press the e-brake pedal down any, something is very seized. The rear brakes are not dragging though. Front rotors are warped most likely from a lack of rear brakes, as they are worn down as well, but still ok for now, I'll just wear them out more then replace them.
-I'm doing the shift kit because I want a firmer shift, it's too soft for my liking and that is bad for the clutch packs anyway. I'm not going to go with the firmest the kit can give, but the middle of the road.

Yes I agree once rebuilt with better parts they can last a long time.

Sounds like ya got it under control

Mattwa wrote:

-I ordered both gaskets, but was planning on doing the rear later since its a real PITA.
-Yes I know about the rear calipers needing to be screwed in, thanks though. I have no idea about the condition of the calipers other then the rotors look horrible and they are half rusty...like they barely work. I can't press the e-brake pedal down any, something is very seized. The rear brakes are not dragging though. Front rotors are warped most likely from a lack of rear brakes, as they are worn down as well, but still ok for now, I'll just wear them out more then replace them.
-I'm doing the shift kit because I want a firmer shift, it's too soft for my liking and that is bad for the clutch packs anyway. I'm not going to go with the firmest the kit can give, but the middle of the road.

Yes I agree once rebuilt with better parts they can last a long time.

The PO or a clueless mechanic probably did the rear calipers in. The calipers seized and let the rotors rust. It's not just the Riv. Seen this on every make car that has the ATE-style rear rotors with the self-adjuster for parking brakes (instead of separate shoes/drum). Mechs who don't know or don't care just whale on them with c-clamps spreading them apart, and seize them up. It jams the self adjuster so after the brake change the cals don't work right, self adjuster seizes and eventually the pads don't really touch the rotors when braking. So the rotors rust. It happens more than you'd think.

As for those VCs, you could do both VC gaskets and while the fuel rail is off, pull and clean injectors.

Sounds like you have things well in hand & congrats again on the Riv.

Yes that's very possible. Good thing I'm getting all new stuff back there.

Thanks all for the compliments. Lots of stuff planned for this car...just need the time. Haha.

Well I found a blown horn fuse, installed one and the horn came on instantly and after 2 seconds blew the new fuse. Only one horn was working and it didn't sound very good. I hit the air bag a few times and put in a new fuse, and the horn stopped. However, after touching the "airbag" a few times it liked to stay on. Even if the horn was stuck on, it shouldn't blow the fuse so quickly, which it did again. Guess If I want working horns I gotta replace the horns with others and make a separate horn button, not dealing with the airbag.

Edit: And, I got two new rear calipers with pads for $36+shipping!

I had a similar problem with my horns blowing fuses. One of them was just bad an kept pulling too much power. The button under the airbag is a very common problem if I remember correctly.

Nice going on the calipers!

I'm sure both horns are toast, a quick look at one of them while replacing the marker light bulb, and they did not look good. Even when the fuse didn't blow, the terminals of the fuse were very hot. And yea the button under the airbags looks to be a common problem, I agree, so I might just use a separate button like I said.

This car is pretty freaking quick for it's weight/size and being almost stock! But I'm not doing any big engine mods till I get the transmission rebuilt I think.

Mattwa wrote:

Well I found a blown horn fuse, installed one and the horn came on instantly and after 2 seconds blew the new fuse. Only one horn was working and it didn't sound very good. I hit the air bag a few times and put in a new fuse, and the horn stopped. However, after touching the "airbag" a few times it liked to stay on. Even if the horn was stuck on, it shouldn't blow the fuse so quickly, which it did again. Guess If I want working horns I gotta replace the horns with others and make a separate horn button, not dealing with the airbag.

Edit: And, I got two new rear calipers with pads for $36+shipping!

You first need to replace the horns and find the short (if any) in the horn wiring... the horns are on brackets under the leading edge of the front fenders, one on each side. You can reach by unpinning the fronts of the inner fenders and bend them out of the way... then remove the brackets and install replacement horns -- scavenge the plugs off the old horns or wire them directly or wire up a pair of spade connectors to each. Advance Auto sells a pair or red 'replacement' horns for about $25 that will work fine... The seemingly stuck horn switch is a membrane switch, If it is stuck you can probably scavenge one off any Buick of about the Riv's vintage (1995-1999), contact junkyards and pick-n-pulls. A surface-mount momentary switch will work. Horns blow thru a relay so anything say rated 2A or better at 12v should work.

As for those brake calipers - RockAuto is selling Morse Caliper remans for $38 the pair, for the Riv. Morse was a supplier to AutoZone that got squeezed and went out of business in late 2011 - http://www.dsiassignments.biz/cases_doc/57/Notice%20of%20Assignment.pdf - they unwound orderly it looks like, paying 75c on the dollar to the unsecured creditors. That's not what you'd wish for but at the same time it's not that bad. Ummm.... now would be a good time to flex the soft hoses and replace them if you find any cracks.

Albertj

Ok thanks. Ill get replacement horns and a new switch.

Yea, those are the exact calipers I got. Do the stainless braided brake lines from zzp work with a Riv?

Mattwa wrote:

Ok thanks. Ill get replacement horns and a new switch.

Yea, those are the exact calipers I got. Do the stainless braided brake lines from zzp work with a Riv?

Yes but the stainless hoses are not a need. You need hoses that are not cracked on the odd chance that the inner hose gets compromised and starts to leak or fails outright. So as long as you are replacing calipers, No Kidding, check those hoses.

Maybe not on a Riv, but they are pretty much a need on a 30 year old Fiero, so I know the differences between the two. They are also necessary if I install f body calipers in the front.

Ill check the condition and see how they look.

Mattwa wrote:

Maybe not on a Riv, but they are pretty much a need on a 30 year old Fiero, so I know the differences between the two. They are also necessary if I install f body calipers in the front.

Ill check the condition and see how they look.

Got it, did not know about the F_body calipers.

Matt, the rear hoses are so short in length that there's little benefit to going braided SS, imo. My OEM rubber hoses are still in prime shape at 247k miles. Inspect yours as albertj suggests. If they ain't broke...

AA wrote:

Matt, the rear hoses are so short in length that there's little benefit to going braided SS, imo. My OEM rubber hoses are still in prime shape at 247k miles. Inspect yours as albertj suggests. If they ain't broke...

Oh ok, I haven't had a chance to take a good look at them yet. Yea, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Speaking of that, I found out today my Riv has another common problem that I didn't know about. Lately I have been just using the A/C because it's been in the 90's, but this morning going to work I used the heat. I got good heat out of the drivers side, but ice cold air out of the passenger side. When it starts getting colder outside this will be an issue with me. I read I have to remove the glove box and get at the motor and replace it for the passenger blend door?

I also got many parts in the mail today, as well as a complete 97 G-body service manual! I'm going to try to read most of it...

AC issue: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t1867-faq-warm-hot-air-on-drivers-side-cold-on-passenger-side#18800

I must say, I'm not used to someone completely editing my posts. I was kind of upset at first that you considerably hacked at my first thread, till I saw you made this one. I wasn't expecting you to do that for me. Thanks. I know why you did it, I'm just saying...

But I really do enjoy my Riviera. Such a awesome cruising car, since I'm traveling 50 miles a day going to work and back. It just needs some work, but for the price I paid for it, it's to be expected. One additional thing I found out was that I need an alignment, and maybe front end parts. It's off so the inside tread on the front tires are wearing funny, I too much have toe out. And I STILL need to the get the legal work done...but I haven't had any time to do so because I'm working 55+ hours a week at my new job...

It's a thankless task being an administrator. But, things do need organization or chaos will reign in short order. You'll be able to find what you're looking for considerably easier than other sites once you get acclimated.

I got my brand new oil pan, rear rotors, and rear calipers with brackets and pads today in the mail. Hoping to get everything fixed up in short order.

Well I finally got my title and plate work done. Planning alot of work being done in the next week or two.

Decided to do the rear brakes and front valve cover today. Man were those old rear brakes BAD.