transmission

Every since i joined this site i have been running to a parts store my trans is putting out some codes and which causes me to not have first or 2nd shift for a while no take off no giddy up nothing all i hear is air moving and the SES like put on a scan machine and it came back P-300 P101 P103 it might be a 7 but ever since it trips the ABS, SES,AND TCS lights to come on and some times the seat belt can someone help me?

P0300= multi cylinder misfire - could be leaky injector seals
p0101 & p0103= maf sensor malfunctions- ecm cant adjust fueling to match maf input - could be leaky injector seals

The transmision issue is more than likely your computer operating in limp mode to avoid damage to your engine. You need to fix your leaky injector seals before going any further with diagnosing sensors or tranny. A scan at an auto parts store is not enough information to start throwing parts at a car. Any problem that can be found on a visual inspection needs to be repaired first.

I can't stress enough how important it is for you to replace your injector seals immediately. Good luck , Dave

So my Trans takes forever to shift into gear when it's cold... the guy at the Trans joint called it Morning Sickness, "a sure sign it's gone"... $1,250... is there possibly a cheaper route?

Automotix.com its the lkq yard you might find some loose gold out there if you lucky

I was just about to ask how much our trans rebuild would cost

Depends on what needs rebuilt. If you only need to replace friction materials, seals & gaskets, it's not that much. I've been told the special tools needed cost more than the rebuild itself - more reason to have a pro do the work. If you need hard parts, or a new TC, it will cost more. I think $1500-2500 can be expected from specialists like AAMCO. Smaller local shops will charge a bit less.

$500-1000 of that cost is removing the unit, so you'll save some if you can take it out yourself.

This seems like a lot, but compared to buying a new/used car it's a bargain. I've gotten over 107k miles out of my last transmission rebuild, and counting.

Yup I will definitely be taking it to a shop for a complete rebuild. May even buy some parts, like 3.29 gear new torque converter etc. I will see what they say

highwaywarrior wrote:

Yup I will definitely be taking it to a shop for a complete rebuild. May even buy some parts, like 3.29 gear new torque converter etc. I will see what they say

Did you even read the earlier comments? You posted the codes you got and you were told wheat the fixes were. You were also told that the engine computer would force the transmission to operate weakly because of those problems.

If you replace transmission without fixing those problems, the replacement will most likely have the SAME problems.

Just saying.

Look at it this way -- none of us except you have a dog in this hunt. Do you really want to burn up a lot of cash for what appears to be a $25.00 problem?

I didn't post any codes

I was talking about in general what shops charge

Sorrybfor the mixup. I was referring to heartbeatrivi's post.

Shops generally charge 4 to 5 hours labor to pull and install a transmission.

It is sometimes the case that what's gone wrong is minor but is so deep in the case that you might as well replace the frictions and steels (in the hydromatic) while you are in there. Parts cost for complete kit of overhaul stuff for a 4T65E IIRC is around 200-300 bucks. For a shop set up to do the work there's another several hours in the overhaul.

If the shop is in an area where labor rates run high it can be more cost effective to buy a transmission that has already been rebuilt and tested. Rockauto.com sells them. You can also find Jacobs and others, and there are several good regional rebuilders.

So there are 2 big variables. One is the labor rate the shop will charge you for this work. The other is the price of the new, used or rebuilt transmission.

You cannot go by "average" cost because the costs are affected a lot by the approach taken to getting the repair done.

oh sweet thank you. the main reason i ask is because while theres nothing werong with my transmission, i am approaching 150,000 miles and i want to mod the ol girl to bring her up to date....and maybe surprise a feww mustangs lol. while i didnt see any rebuilt trans on rock auto it seems that it may actually be a better idea to buy a rebuilt one, put 3.29 gears in, nice torque converter etc unless im missing something. OH! i read a topic on here someone saying that are transmissions are alittle different than grand prix or something.. whats your take on that

Some early grand prix 4T65s had a slightly different casting omitting some critical bolts the Riv and some others use for the rear mount. I tried one and cracked the case on the first shift...

Check out ZZP and TEP for a 'built' 4T65. Some local builders may do it for you cheaper if you are providing the parts. ZZP and Intense sell upgraded transmission parts.

I supplied my local builder with a hardened input and output shaft, gearing parts to change to 3.29s, and let the rebuilder supply the rest (he had a trusted supplier for goods like clutches etc. That tranmission has seen it's share of 1/4 mile passes and now has another 75K miles, and is still running strong.

yup i will be supplying the parts. thats man i appreciate the info, what torque converter did you use?

The transaxles are basically the same, but they mount differently to the W-Body cars. More info on this topic at this link (feel free to post additional fitment questions here):

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t2042-faq-what-transmissions-swap-into-our-rivieras-97-99

The other issue is the "HD" (heavy duty) designation, which is basically an upgraded TC, differential, and the driver side CV/axle, possibly some other things. It's worth mentioning - I'm still on my OEM diff and both CV axles at 258k miles. They aren't even hinting at failure so far. Very stout, quality parts from GM.

If you are approaching 150k, and you want to bring your trans up to date, my advice is to buy a ZZP, INTENSE, or PTAC "built" transmission. These have the options to swap gears, use harder parts, stall converter, etc. They'll buy back your core, but overall you get what you pay for - you will pay more. Keep in mind, just because you have a stronger transmission, these companies don't offer any warranties that I'm aware. They know you're going to race.

If you are on a budget, you could have the local AAMCO or similar shop rebuild your transmission. At 150k, if you are bothering to take the unit out, might as well have a basic rebuild done. However they may not honor a warranty if you supply shorter gears and other parts that indicate you intend to abuse the unit. Still, doesn't hurt to ask. This is the most reasonable route to take for a warrantied build.

Possibly budget move: buy a used unit from a local yard. These units can be had for $600-1000 and can save you money if you install yourself. If you are going to have it installed, you're probably paying just as much or more than a rebuild. Make sure you ask about the warranty on junk yard unit.

Awesome thank you

highwaywarrior wrote:

yup i will be supplying the parts. thats man i appreciate the info, what torque converter did you use?

I kept my OEM converter. There was nothing wrong with it.

Personally I prefer the stock converter. I would rather have the lower engagement. I drove a built RegalGS with a high stall converter and hated it. I also think the 3800 is nice and torquey and unless you are building a drag-only car it's not worth the aggravation and heat a higher stall will create.