Automotive Apps for iPhone & Android

i bought it for my ipod touch yesterday....so far on the fist run im showing 391whp and .89 G's. i need to find the correct adjustment for drivetrain loss...still have yet to do a 1/4 mile run..damn this thing is cool ..lemme know what you learn.

Your drivetrain loss is usually 15%-20%. I'll have to play with those numbers a bit, but so far I'm finding the 15% pretty close to what I think it should say.

For the 3800 cars it's 17-24% drivetrain loss. Hmmm..391WHP? Seems awfully high. Do you have somethings missing from your sig? If not I need you to tune my car. I'm only getting 350whp.

Karma wrote:

my buddy just flashes back to the original firmware, upgrades, and then re-jailbreaks it. Says it works great.

Oh my god, it's the most complicated BS to upgrade to 2.0 and all I hear are bad things from everyone who has done it. Here's a guide on how to do it:
http://sleepers.net/news/guides/pwnage-20-guide/

Screw that! I'd rather spend $150 or whatever for one that goes in a pillar mount or something like that. Shit, it'd be easier than this is. I'm not going to break my iPhone just to get this cheapo software on there. It's obviously inaccurate since it can't tell a car's horsepower or anything else better than a guess. I only want to trust something that physically connects to the car through the ODB port or something to get completely accurate information.

Using the OBD-II port won't give you accurate 1/4 mile or other G- related information. You need something with an accelerometer to do that.

It'll give you a more accurate horsepower reading though.

Through OBD-II? How do you get hp?

Very dissapointed with my experience... It took forever to calibrate and when it did it was not accurate at all. almost a 11 sec 0-60, 14 sec 1/4 mi, and it said my top speed was only 76mph (My speedo must have been off by about 50mph because I powered through 120 with ease). I did not even look at what it thought I was making WHP. I am not sure what happened or what could have been changed. The guy who ownes the phone and app was with me and has worked with the app since 2 days after it came out. Maybe something was wrong with the accelerometers in the phone?

The cool thing was I got to hear my friend in the passenger seat say.. "HOLEY F*@$" as we approached 120mph VERY quickly. Then in a whimper, "thats enough" when the spedo needle couldn't continue it's rapid accent.

Guess I will have to stick with the dyno and get my car on the track.

Was he holding the phone in his hand? That's a no-no... It dulls the force to the accelerometers. Also it needs to be mostly upright and perpendicular to the forward motion of the car...

It was resting flat on the center console lid with him holding it in place so it would not move. It was horizontal not vertical but with 3 accelerometers you would think it wouldn't matter. I was too busy driving to worry about if he moved or not.

ewolfe0050 wrote:

For the 3800 cars it's 17-24% drivetrain loss. Hmmm..391WHP? Seems awfully high. Do you have somethings missing from your sig? If not I need you to tune my car. I'm only getting 350whp.

lol
yea seems pretty high even with 24% loss. My sig is accurate...this thing does fly but I doubt the accuracy of that test...
I had my ipod touch sitting pretty firmly in one of the cup holders. I don't think it moved at all.

Our cars should not have that much loss. 17% is about right. Stock Rivs dyno about 200 WHP.

I agree the iPod unit would need to be rigidly braced to function correctly. If a human hand is touching it, I wouldn't expect any accuracy. Also, I have to wonder how the accelerometers respond to wheel spin.

I've had an accelerometer for a few years now. Pretty close to actual 1/4 mile times. MUST be placed in the center of the car, firmly and SQUARE. Both vert and horz square for accurate readings. The reason being square matters is cause its taking different readings from each axis of the accelerometers. And make sure you have the weight of your car entered right, add your own weight on top, cause thats how it calcs the horsepower.

Yes, good point about curb weight. You can't just say your car weighs 3800 lbs, you need to weigh your actual car to know for sure.

AA wrote:

Yes, good point about curb weight. You can't just say your car weighs 3800 lbs, you need to weigh your actual car to know for sure.

i have mine set at 3950......... am i fibbin?

Probably about right. It helps to find a scale somewhere though. I have been on scales at 3850 before, 3900 is probably a safe number. Varies with how much gas in the tank, how much junk in the trunk, etc. I weighed in at 3780 at the track with spare tire out and back seat bottom removed, and 1/3 tank of gas. Normally I run over 1/2 tank of gas and loaded, more likely 3900 is right.

I recently tried this iPod app. I like it, because it gave me less-than-perfect numbers. This tells me it might be honest. My first run was a 2.8 sec 60', 0-60 mph in 6.9 sec, and 1/4 mile in 15.1 @ 92.0. HP was 260. Pulled .66 acceleration Gs! This all makes sense, because my street times are usually a little lower than at the racetrack. The road surface just isn't as sticky on most public roads, and not as level.

I think with a 2.1 sec 60' the car would be right on spec. I once ran a 14.7 at the track with a 2.4 sec 60'.

If you have an iPod touch, and are looking for a case, might check into the DLO HipCase leather folio. It's a nice case to begin with, but its leather belt clip is exactly the right size to fit into the console shift window groove next to the shifter. You can press it in and it will stay put for just about any type of driving:



Link: http://www.dlo.com/Products/Hc_folio_touch_Prod.tpl?command=showpage&cart=

Hmm, well did we determine if this app was worth it? I wasn't going to upgrade to 2.0 but the university won't let you on their wireless unless you use 2.0 so I did the upgrade a week or so ago to 2.0.2 and now I have apps. It just doesn't seem accurate enough, are these the same numbers a pillar mounted gauge would give?

AA wrote:

I recently tried this iPod app. I like it, because it gave me less-than-perfect numbers. This tells me it might be honest. My first run was a 2.8 sec 60', 0-60 mph in 6.9 sec, and 1/4 mile in 15.1 @ 92.0. HP was 260. Pulled .66 acceleration Gs! This all makes sense, because my street times are usually a little lower than at the racetrack. The road surface just isn't as sticky on most public roads, and not as level.

I think with a 2.1 sec 60' the car would be right on spec. I once ran a 14.7 at the track with a 2.4 sec 60'.

IPODS LIE

I find mine to be pretty accurate.

Like I said, these numbers correspond near exactly with my track times:

Track: 13.9 secs w/ 2.1 60'
Track: 14.7 secs w/ 2.4 60'
iPod: 15.1 secs w/ 2.8 60'

I did a 0-60 mph sprint last night, letting off as close as I can to 75 mph. The iPod said I stopped at 73.4 mph. This is exactly right, because my speedo needle reads about 2 mph high at that speed.

Imo, it's not only accurate, it's scary good for a $12 app.

2.8 60'? Were you drunk or something?

It makes me want to get this on my cousins iphone and do a run.

TonySmooth89 wrote:

2.8 60'? Were you drunk or something?

It makes me want to get this on my cousins iphone and do a run.

at the track they have VHT which is STICKY stuff......... faster/better launches

I still haven't beaten that 2.80 sec 60' yet, but I managed a .80 lateral G this morning. That's a pretty hard right turn!

AA wrote:

I still haven't beaten that 2.80 sec 60' yet, but I managed a .80 lateral G this morning. That's a pretty hard right turn!

... Thats a very hard right turn for the street!
I will never question your driving ability again.