engine acting funny

albertj wrote:

For most such bolts (5 or 6 point Torx security heads) our local Valu Hardware, Home Depot and Lowe's sell replacement screws with allen or hex heads.

There is some stuff they don't have - such as exhaust studs. Saw a nice Dorman kit today for the pre-metric GM carsthat included zinc plated studs and brass nuts. What I wonder, though, is do the brass nuts loosen themselves from vibration?

By the way - any of you used brass nuts on an exhaust build?

Albertj

On my 70 GS455 the hardware that attaches the exhaust flange on the downpipes to the exhaust manifold uses brass nuts
http://www.gesslerheadporting.com/gesslerheadporting/ghp.nsf/822dcaaaa26c6da985256dd80023623d/c7219aa4ef2106448525710f0065a397!OpenDocument
It's a replacement kit made by Greg Gessler. Its been on there several years now and has not given any trouble yet. But now that you mention it I should probably retorque those nuts if I can remember.

He also has some studs for V8 Buick engines:
http://www.gesslerheadporting.com/gesslerheadporting/ghp.nsf/822dcaaaa26c6da985256dd80023623d/548ef858da23426d8525710f0063c8f5!OpenDocument

Bert

albertj wrote:

I wonder, though, is do the brass nuts loosen themselves from vibration?

By the way - any of you used brass nuts on an exhaust build?

Albertj

I have in the past on American V8's, etc.that were subject to winters with snow and road salt, etc.
Would have to replace the manifold studs with new due to heavy corrosion and deterioration. Used the steel, zinc plated or anodized replacement studs with the brass nuts.
Still have some 5/16 and 3/8" nuts in stock.
Haven't used them in years though. Used to use them where the Y-Pipe attached to the manifold.
Or in header installs.
And yes, a re-torque after a few heat cycles is a good idea. After that I don't recall having them come loose on a regular basis. Work good, last long time.

ibmoses wrote:

albertj wrote:

For most such bolts (5 or 6 point Torx security heads) our local Valu Hardware, Home Depot and Lowe's sell replacement screws with allen or hex heads.

There is some stuff they don't have - such as exhaust studs. Saw a nice Dorman kit today for the pre-metric GM carsthat included zinc plated studs and brass nuts. What I wonder, though, is do the brass nuts loosen themselves from vibration?

By the way - any of you used brass nuts on an exhaust build?

Albertj

On my 70 GS455 the hardware that attaches the exhaust flange on the downpipes to the exhaust manifold uses brass nuts
http://www.gesslerheadporting.com/gesslerheadporting/ghp.nsf/822dcaaaa26c6da985256dd80023623d/c7219aa4ef2106448525710f0065a397!OpenDocument
It's a replacement kit made by Greg Gessler. Its been on there several years now and has not given any trouble yet. But now that you mention it I should probably retorque those nuts if I can remember.

He also has some studs for V8 Buick engines:
http://www.gesslerheadporting.com/gesslerheadporting/ghp.nsf/822dcaaaa26c6da985256dd80023623d/548ef858da23426d8525710f0063c8f5!OpenDocument



Bert

Thanks

Hmm....

it's a lot hotter by the cat than it is in those applications. Think I'll stick with grade 8s.

Albertj

Or replace with Stainless fasteners.
Don't recall if ours use a through bolt and fastened with a nut or if the bolt is threaded into the flange?
If it's threaded into the flange I would just use a lock-washers under the head of the bolt and some anti-seize.

Rickw wrote:

Or replace with Stainless fasteners.
Don't recall if ours use a through bolt and fastened with a nut or if the bolt is threaded into the flange?
If it's threaded into the flange I would just use a lock-washers under the head of the bolt and some anti-seize.

Thanks. Valu has great selection of stainless and I have some copper antiseize...

Albertj

Rickw wrote:

Eldo wrote:

Well that was a pain in the ass...

Turns out there are 2 different Torx security bits: Regular 6-point Security, and Torx Plus (TX) that has the center post but only 5 points!

Our cars use the 6-pt T20S...

I never understand why they do such things.
Do we really need two different sets of tools to do what one will accomplish. A Torx Security bit and a Torx Plus
A 5 point and a 6 point. Senseless if you ask me.
And some people wonder why the independent mechanic has to charge the labor rates they do. Just consider the investment in special tools to work on ALL makes of cars. Each with there own unique tooling needs.

Very good point, Rick. To be able to just SCAN the latest & greatest, my brother just blew over $3 Grand on a whole new kit...

What's really stupid about our situation, is that the MAF sensor isn't an adjustable part! It's not like the days when the smog regs said that the idle screws had to be tamper resistant, these are just R&R... and of course, if someone wants to clean their throttle body without wrecking the MAF, they must remove it.

Ilan, on the other hand, probably wishes that his IAC had the positive-grip Torx instead of the strip-out combo screws...