tortuga

AA wrote:

Please tell me all 3 of those Aeroforce gauges aren't yours! I don't know how I ever got by without the one I have, and you get 3?!!! Life just isn't fair!

Yup. I ditched the timing comander gauge in favor of the nitrous timing controller so that gave me 3 slots to fill total. For some reason the right gauge is crappin' on me though. The display is all f'd up. I need to contact AF or zzp about it.

Are you using any of the AF analog inputs, or the relay controller for nitrous?

yeah enjoy the interior rattles lol they arent as noticable with a siren for a fuel pump and the howl of a whipple with 2 chamber flomasters lol

i told ya the lifters would take a bit to pump up...they were completly empty after all
sounds damn good man

did you mask and touchup the bottom of the pan yet?

Dude, that's frickin awesome!!!!

Today..

Car is back on delivery duty. I had zero problems with driving it as far as the engine and trans go. I am having serious issues with my aeroforce gauges working and programming though. It took me a lot of monkeying around before I could even get my bin to read with hptuners. It kept trying and failing. I don't see how anything I did could affect that at all except when I was monkeying around in the DLC area to reroute the wiring for my boost gauge (which is totally unrelated) I ended up getting the DHP to do the job and I got my EGR codes removed and changed my idle speeds. I forgot how low the factory in-gear idle is (in the 600's) and with a stage 3 cam and solid mounts, that's way too slow. I changed it to 750 warmed up and it's pretty happy there. In car vibration is not bad at all now. On another tuning note, I've always had some slight issues with the engine not wanting to fire up easily since around when I installed the northstar TB way back when. In addition to the other stuff, I used tinytuner and increased the "IAC flow per step" by 30% (I think that's how much James said) and so far it has started up easy is pie like the old days every time. So I'd argue that's pretty much required tuning for a northstar to properly work on this engine. That always kinda pissed me off. Since it's been slick on the roads from the snow, I haven't really been able to have any fun at all. The torsen definitely does what it's supposed to. I really can't wait to push it in good conditions. Today I've had a few times when I was getting on the throttle a decent bit and turning and to my genuine surprise, I suddenly achieved a bunch of traction instead of lost it and my car started pulling hard the direction i had the wheel. As funny as it is, it was a new experience in this car. I dunno how to really describe it but it's excellent. On another tuning note (at least I hope it's just tuning) I'm getting a fair little bit of KR anytime I touch open throttle. Around 6ish as far as I can tell with the aeroforce gauges only working some of the time... In response to this I just ordered a wideband and plan to get it in the car as soon as I can.

congrats bitch

now get the wideband.

and the iac flow per step is a calculation of the area change from the oe 10mm iac to the N* 12mm iac
so find the difference of the area's ie pi r^2 its been a while since ive done the math

First counter-mod for the solid mounts and stuff. While idling my grill was vibrating against the bumper a tad bit. This weather stripping took care of that. I just need to do something similar with the piece of trim that goes right underneath the main top dash surface and the vibration problems should be solved. I don't hear anything anywhere else on the car.


and pics that should have been posted already



I really wasn't too sure the hood was gonna close looking at it from this angle but it was fine and I've seen no evidence of touching. The main problem areas are the throttle body if you don't have it upside down like I do and I guess somewhere around the snout area of the blower judging by the pictures of where Ewolfe cut the hood. I suppose the 5/16" cradle spacers was enough to take care of that for me. I didn't touch my hood.



about as ideal as a single entry point nitrous nozzle can be. It's at the back too which means very short nozzle line (excellent!) and hidden




some engine shots
The little breather is the pcv inlet until I make a new FWI and then integrate it like factory. Need about $100 or so in parts from Spectre to make the intake how I want it though and other things are more pressing right now.

And random new/old turtle shots!

wow!

Awesome !!!

This is a crazy. mean machine...

Beware The Turtle.

Z-type wrote:

This is a crazy. mean machine...

Beware The Turtle.

Excellent!!! Very clean engine bay Codith.

Also loving Andrew's quote above.

So, how's it perform so far? Got any bugs? Or is she good to go?

Hometown Hero wrote:

So, how's it perform so far? Got any bugs? Or is she good to go?

First serious bug right off the bat was I couldn't get reliable communication at my DLC so I couldn't really scan anything. I pretty much have that handled now. I still need to get my wideband put in so I know what this thing's doing. When I could keep the scan gauge connected for a sustained amount of time, I noticed I was getting KR pretty easily - just a touch of WOT. I'm thinking it might be more than just a tuning thing. Since the new rear trans mount went in, my engine is sitting where it should be in suspension and not 1/2" low resting on the floor of the mount and as a result my exhaust in the cat/resonator area are clearly touching the car. I'm thinking that now with it pressed against the car, the sensors are picking up something from that. When I get the wideband sensor bung put in, I'm going to take care of that too.

Aside from that, I've been driving the car every day like normal and little by little, tieing up stuff I've been working on. I finally finished the nitrous/perfshift controls on the steering wheel (minus the status light), finished wiring the fuel system, rewired the aeroforce gauges better, put in a delay relay for the HID headlights. tomorrow morning, I'm running the wire through the firewall for the wideband, boost gauge and oil pressure sensor. It runs fine. I'm really enjoying the torsen diff and addco sway bar now that the roads aren't all snowy. Gotta change the rear brakes now too. Inconvenient basic maintenance items!

Looks great.

Wow that looks great! Your not too far from me... maybe some time we could meet up and check out each others rides.

gmann3001 wrote:

Wow that looks great! Your not too far from me... maybe some time we could meet up and check out each others rides.

Yup you're down near Tinley Park right. not terribly far

You guys are about an hour or 2 east of me, lol.

I got the aeroforce gauges re-wired. No more connection issues!



There's the harness I made. That's a f***-ton less wiring and messiness than they give you with the triple gauge set to use.


I used some good quality splices to tie it to the DLC semi-permanently. I'm not sure if 1998 or 1999 Riv's are different than my 1997, but the earlier OBDII protocols that don't have the bus(-) terminal (pin 10 on the OBD plug) don't need all four wires for the Aeroforce scan gauges, just the black,white,green. The red wire that would go to pin10 on the OBD plug is left out and you have to remove the jumper on the back of the gauge(s) and connect the seperate accessory power harness to switched power per the instructions so that the gauges know when to turn on/off. I switched that red wire so I can turn the gauges off when I want to plug into the OBD connector with something else to tune or log. Otherwise, the scan devices would conflict with each-other.


There's the switch

Besides that the wideband is on hold until I figure out how to de-pin the molex style connector without damaging it so I can put the 6 wires for it through the firewall with the rest of the aux wiring. I found out I will not be able to use the Autometer oil pressure sending unit with anything other than the gauge it's paired with because it uses a unique output voltage curve so that sucks. That's pretty much just going to sit there doing nothing then until I either find a place to put the extra gauge or replace it with a standard 5v pressure sender. It served it's main purpose though. I confirmed oil pressure after the build so I'm content.
Also now that I've reconnected the boost gauge, I'll report I'm now seeing really close to 12psi out of the new modded genV with the same 3.2" pulley I had giving me about 1psi less then that with the old gen3. That tells me that this blower is quite a bit better. I was half expecting to see the same or less boost with the big increase in head flow and reduction in idle vacuum resulting from the longer duration of the new cam. I presume that's the result of the work done to the blower by Andrew and also less wear on it and it's a better blower to start with I guess. Anyway that is just something I was impressed with.

On the KR topic, I drove the car around yesterday and with reliable scanning, I'm seeing that it's all happening while I'm just cruising around 1400rpm. It'll peg at 15 degrees and stay there till I let off or give it more and get the rpm up. I went WOT a few times and saw zero KR. Definitely something funky like that exhaust I mentioned.

Looks good.

some interesting scan shots


So at about 6400rpm with a 3.2" pulley and ported everything 4" shorty intake, my LS6 maf sensor is maxing out to 11,500hz. The sensor is fine beyond that but the L67 PCM program unfortunately isn't. Thankfully I picked up a used fixed frequency AFC (although I really didn't think I was going to need it until I was running smaller pulleys and/or spraying a serious amount of nitrous). You can also see my injector duty was at 120ish% which is kinda really bad but part of that is because it's pretty pig rich. Those are 42lb injectors btw.



This is pretty neat. You can clearly see the Harrison Speedworks maf controller at work here. The cursor is right where I press the nitrous button. You can see a few things happening. The IAT is jumping up to a preset bogus value in order to retard timing to what I set it to, which you can also see. Advance falls to 9*. I have everything extremely conservative right now for the reasons above. You can also see the maf signal jump up which is the main point of the controller and along with that the injector duty and map climbs. I saw an extra 1psi at the manifold while spraying the 38shot (smallest nitrous jet I have) I'm not putting much value into what the o2 is saying since it's well out of its range of accuracy but the bit of oscillation makes some sense. I can use that to help me determine the most ideal delay for AFR compensation which the controller also features.


ps. I did a couple quick 0-60 runs and with a ton of wheelspin, really bad tune for power, it still pulled to 60mph in 6 seconds flat (confirmed with a log) which seems agreeable with what's going on. Once things are dialed in and I replace tires, it should be able to sprint faster - thinking ~5.5 seconds. I'm looking at AA's 5.79 as sort of a benchmark.

I dont comprehend any of that.it's all greek. I would need a lap-top and a series2 Riv ,and really get into that stuff.I dont even know my timetables? uuff

Very nice, and it's good to see your attention to detail and conservatism in the initial tuning. Great job.

Nice. Keep in mind, that 5.79 I ran was on the drag tarmac at Norwalk. No way am I getting that kind of hook-up on the street.