My L67 swap from LesabreT.com

Thats it! I see zero defference with the installation between the 4T60/65 besides the spacers sizes. I can go to a big hardware store near me and get the right diameter and match the lengths from a ZZP kit or something. Sound right?

I'm on the fence about doing this shift kit. My trans is still in tip top shape so I think I'll sit on it a while.

In the mean time, Sunday is the Flashlight Drags at an old airport about an hour away from me. They hold 1/8th mile races for fun (not timed). If it doesn't rain, me and dad are bringing this car and his Regal GS!

Z-type wrote:

I'm on the fence about doing this shift kit. My trans is still in tip top shape so I think I'll sit on it a while.

Believe it or not, a shift kit (if done properly) is good for the trans. By the time it starts getting "weak", and you install a shift kit, it's too late. You'll blow it up sooner than later. Quicker shifts save the clutches and bands....to an extent. Obviously, shift BANG is bad.

Yes exactly...I guess what is really holding me up is that I was JUST in the trans, and I hate dropping the pan. The adjustable trans pressure modulator actually does a good job at keeping the shifts short, but I will do this some time. Maybe before Fall?

Hey dudes! some info, then a simple question I haven't found a simple answer for.

When I did this swap a few years ago I had to tap a hole into part of the coolant passages in the LIM for a temperature sender for the T-types temperature gauge. easy, and only had to add one wire to the harness to go directly to the gauge cluster. I suppose stupidly, I used regular black RTV to seal up the threads for the sender, not realizing it is a one-post sender and requires the threads to ground the sender to give a proper reading to the gauge.

There is a separate sensor to send information to the PCM, but for my gauge to work I have to use this little sender. The question is, if I take it out and strip the black RTV off of it, would Ultra Copper RTV work nicely as a new sealant, so the sender can ground and give proper readings?

I wanted to ask this now because I have to take the blower off anyway to fix a minute coolant leak at a heater hose metal connection under the snout. Thanks!

Hello again,

Well I had some time the other day to get my supercharger off to replace the coolant sender for my gauge and re-seal the metal coolant pipe that goes into the LIM. I think I may have set some sort of record. I had all the vacuum lines, wiring, supercharger, and fuel rail off within 35 minutes.


I also wanted to take this time to check out how Karma's magnificent porting and blockoff plate were holding up, and they look fantastic! Just a light coating of...whatever. Probably just a bit of oil, and it wiped right off and polished up again in no time. Thanks again Karma! It's truly a work of art!


I opted to try a new sender for my temp gauge just for fun, and it installed fine. This picture is of the old sender on the left and new on the right. Different length, sure, but same construction and no problem with fit. Notice anything funny about the threads at the top where the wire connects to? If you look close, you can see the new sender is reverse threaded. What the hell. So I cleaned up the old one as best I could and installed it with new Copper RTV. Still does not read correctly, but at this point it must be a wiring issue from when I did the swap. That's for another day when I feel like digging into the dash.


Everything seemed to seal up great and went back together with no problem! Now just waiting for some less-rainy weather so I can drive the darn thing.




Also, I thought this was funny. Test drove the car did errands at the same time so I picked up lunch for me and Dad since we were doing work on another car later. Kept his Sonic burger warm with the engine bay haha.

Z-type wrote:

Hey dudes! some info, then a simple question I haven't found a simple answer for.

When I did this swap a few years ago I had to tap a hole into part of the coolant passages in the LIM for a temperature sender for the T-types temperature gauge. easy, and only had to add one wire to the harness to go directly to the gauge cluster. I suppose stupidly, I used regular black RTV to seal up the threads for the sender, not realizing it is a one-post sender and requires the threads to ground the sender to give a proper reading to the gauge.

There is a separate sensor to send information to the PCM, but for my gauge to work I have to use this little sender. The question is, if I take it out and strip the black RTV off of it, would Ultra Copper RTV work nicely as a new sealant, so the sender can ground and give proper readings?

I wanted to ask this now because I have to take the blower off anyway to fix a minute coolant leak at a heater hose metal connection under the snout. Thanks!

A little late now, but use liquid PTFE paste to seal the threads. It will allow grounding through the sealant. Permatex etc sells it.

Aaaaah yes. I actually have some of that too lol. Oh well...if it turns out my wiring is NOT the issue I can take 15 minutes and swap out the sealants on the sender.

I don't think that's the problem now. I check the sender with my multi-meter and it appears to be reading the correct ohms just sitting there. So yeah I'll have to check the wiring but there's too many cars in my big garage right now for me to move anything around to make room to get inside my dash. If that makes sense.