Reply needed straight away

What is the purpose of using distilled H2O in your coolant mix?

ironclyde wrote:

What is the purpose of using distilled H2O in your coolant mix?

Distilled water has zero mineral deposits.Clean water =s clean engine.

ironclyde wrote:

What is the purpose of using distilled H2O in your coolant mix?

Like Robo said - clean water. Tap water contains a lot of minerals that end up becoming deposits and rust. Distilled water is 'pure' and you get only the chemicals in the antifreeze. If you buy the "50/50 premixed" antifreeze, they are using distilled water for you. (Distilled water can be found at most grocery stores/drugstores for $1.49/gal or less).

I think I'll stick to the premixed. As I stated earlier, DI water is corrosive. It can create crud by reacting with your block. I see someone took down my previous post with substantiating chemistry info. That's not good intellectual integrity. I'm not here to be "right". If you have contradictory information, I'm willing to learn.

Thanks.

ironclyde wrote:

I think I'll stick to the premixed. As I stated earlier, DI water is corrosive. It can create crud by reacting with your block. I see someone took down my previous post with substantiating chemistry info. That's not good intellectual integrity. I'm not here to be "right". If you have contradictory information, I'm willing to learn.

Thanks.

Well,deionized water would be best but distilled water is a thousand times better than tap.Premix is double the price of straight coolant. At the suggested coolant flush intervals ,distilled water is a way better performer than tap.

I appreciate the feedback.

...it's what we do.....  

Lots of technical info. And I don't know who might of deleted your post, Ironclyde, but I never saw it posted if you did. I get emails everytime someone posts on here, and your substantiating chemistry info never went through on my end.

Did some research on the oil pressure hike. Found that, because it is 10W40 oil, it is below freezing around here on the norm this year, and possibly because the oil is dirty from initial startup and wearing down the high spots on the new bearings that an oil change could fix that issue.

The low voltage on idle could be because the battery wasnt FULLY charged. I read that the alternator is a poor charger on a low battery. It had plenty of charge to start the car, but not enough to be considered fully charged. So I will also put the battery on the charger for a while and make sure it's full and see how it reacts. The battery is only about a year old and half a year it was sitting, so I shouldn't have any problems with it.

All that with a compression test and I'll post my results later. I have been laid off work so I have plenty of time to get all this done. After the second start-up the smoking stopped and the engine exhaust smells clean. Now the wife and I can start saving up to get the tranny rebuilt.

If anything I would guess a post was moved, not deleted. If it was all about water and antifreeze chemistry, it was probably moved to a more relevant topic, long term.

It is possible to delete your own posts for a time period after it was posted.

Curious why you are running 10W40 oil. I'd say that's much too thick, even for startup oil. 5W30 or 10W30 is all I would run, esp in winter temps.

Sorry to hear about the layoff. That's no fun at all. Good luck!

Derek,
I was told to use a nice thick oil. Didn't have any problem starting up that is for sure. I'll drop to 10W-30 for the first oil & filter change. Then I will do a filter only change to help clean out some more junk before I switch it to full synthetic 5W-30 and K&N Filter. I'm only using synthetic once I am satisfied with the engine break-in.

Then layoff isn't too bad. The snow likes to keep hittin' us here and I'd be home half the time anyways. Unemployment will hold my wife and I over plenty until March comes around and the busy season picks up.

Whoever told you to use thicker oil needs to be slapped. You've rebuilt an engine. All tolerances are tighter. All thicker oil does is create strain on the new parts and higher oil pressure because it's too thick.
There's absolutely no sense in using a thicker oil than specified unless your oil and/or compression rings are shot, or you have bad bearings somewhere causing a loss of oil pressure.

My $.02

   

Have you tried "The Right Stuff" for RTV? I use it all the time for gaskets. It's incredibly sticky. I used it on a 4T60E side cover instead of that $80.00 gasket. It has stayed dry as a bone.

Alright fellas,
Took out the spark plugs and checked them out. Cylinders 4, 6, and 5 were completely clean. Cylinder 1 had a little brown coloring on it. Cylinders 2 and 3 were a little black on the tip. So I went ahead and did the Compression Test:

Cylinder 5: 150PSI down to 145
Cylinder 3: 150PSI down to 145
Cylinder 1: 153PSI down to 148
Cylinder 6: 150PSI held strong
Cylinder 4: 155PSI down to 150
Cylinder 2: 150PSI held strong

Let me know what you think fellas. Honestly, I think that is pretty damn good considering. Afterwards, I put the plugs back in and warmed her up. Just drained the oil and it seemed oddly thin. Makes me wonder about the timing cover seal. I wont know for sure if there is antifreeze in the oil until I can open the radiator cap and see. Not really sure I'll know what to look for, but i will check some pictures online. The engine is running strong, exhaust still smells clean, battery voltage leveled out, misfiring went away. Not sure where to go from here.

Well, I completed the oil change, kept the car up on jacks and started running it through the gears. Don't worry the e-brake is working properly and the car is up on large based jackstands. The car logs mileage when I keep it in gear, so everyday, I will run it for about 20-30 miles and keep checking the fluid consistancy and levels. Once I hit 200 miles or so I will do the filter and quart of oil change, then run it for another 500 miles or more before doing the oil change to full synthetic 5W-30. Then I should be fine.

I am so happy to have my car back. I was thinking about puttin my MP3 back in the car and jamming out while the car does its thing. Maybe even read my book to help pass the time. haha. It'll be nice just to be sitting and "cruising" once again.

Are you doing your break-in miles on jack stands?

The problem with that is there is no real load on the engine. The rings need varying speeds and loads to break in properly.

Derek,
My boss at work has given me the solution to that issue. He built race engine for years. He has been an intrical part of the rebuild process, giving me information on how to do things and what not to do. He told me a good way to help the rings is to put it in 2nd gear, which without load only goes to about 25 MPH, load the engine to about 2000 RPMs and let it settle back down into its gear's RPM range. Doing that a few times will help seat and break in the rings.

Okay, as long as you are giving it some varying loads. Although I still don't think that's enough. Spinning the wheels in 2nd is nothing like wind resistance at 55 and a mild hill climb.

Good point man. I've decided to just do the initial 200 miles on the stands. Once that is completed, I will to the filter change and add a quart of oil for what comes out. Then I will take it out and do some driving for 500 miles before I do the synthetic oil change and K&N filter.

I have the transmission to think of a good bit too. I don't lose any significant fluid from it after running the engine. Just a few drops, but the case gasket is brittle around the edges and that could mean the whole gasket is crap. I suppose I'll have to drive it like the 26 year old car it is until I get it rebuilt.

For this oil pressure spiking issue, I am buying a new pressure sensor and electrical connector (since the cold made the original one brittle and broke the clip to hold it tight). See if that doesn't level out the readings. It only shoots up when the engine is slowing down now. Like right after you let off the gas. But the readings are starting to go up into the 80s. I saw 88 PSI a couple times this last 15 mile run.

Wolfmaster579 wrote:

Good point man. I've decided to just do the initial 200 miles on the stands. Once that is completed, I will to the filter change and add a quart of oil for what comes out. Then I will take it out and do some driving for 500 miles before I do the synthetic oil change and K&N filter.

I have the transmission to think of a good bit too. I don't lose any significant fluid from it after running the engine. Just a few drops, but the case gasket is brittle around the edges and that could mean the whole gasket is crap. I suppose I'll have to drive it like the 26 year old car it is until I get it rebuilt.

For this oil pressure spiking issue, I am buying a new pressure sensor and electrical connector (since the cold made the original one brittle and broke the clip to hold it tight). See if that doesn't level out the readings. It only shoots up when the engine is slowing down now. Like right after you let off the gas. But the readings are starting to go up into the 80s. I saw 88 PSI a couple times this last 15 mile run.

Make sure you use a 'sensor safe' sealant on the threads. Don't use teflon tape, it could interfere with the sensor's ground.

Did you have the timing cover off or oil pump apart? It sounds like something might be up with the pressure spring or something. In fact, you might want to pick up a cheap mechanical gauge while you are testing just to see if the spikes are real. Probably costs as much as the sensor itself!

You know, I never thought about the teflon tape being bad. I think that is what I used on the currently installed one. Maybe that is causing some issues.

I had the engine torn down to block cam and crank, so yeah, the timing cover was removed. I also replaced the oil pump and have a brand new spring installed.

Wolfmaster579 wrote:

You know, I never thought about the teflon tape being bad. I think that is what I used on the currently installed one. Maybe that is causing some issues.

I had the engine torn down to block cam and crank, so yeah, the timing cover was removed. I also replaced the oil pump and have a brand new spring installed.

You can always check it with an ohmmeter (external part of the sensor vs the block) but you also need to check it while the engine is hot (and spiking)

Just a thought. Teflon tape _is_ pretty thin so it might have grounded through, but it's advised against. You know it's working some of the time.

Good news. I replaced the electrical connector for the oil pressure sensor and the sensor itself. I found that I teflon taped the hell out of the one I installed previously. Took it for a trial run in the garage. Oil Pressure never went above 58 PSI and it held steady consistantly the entire time. Amazing really. I am super stoked about it.

Battery is holding strong at 13.5 to 14.4 volts on the norm, and the temperature is staying within reason. Really glad I changed to the higher performance 180 degree thermostat instead of the OEM 195 degree. Really seems to be making a difference. Cooler engine = happy engine.

And honestly, I can't help it. I am taking it out for a road test. Everything checks out and is running properly. I have 80 stationary miles on the engine now. And my grandmother, who has been rooting me on from the start and got me thinking about rebuilding it in the first place, is going to be the first one to see it. She is only a few miles down the road so it isn't going to be too stressful for the Rivi. But it will still be nice to feel it rollin' again.

Wolfmaster579 wrote:

Good news. I replaced the electrical connector for the oil pressure sensor and the sensor itself. I found that I teflon taped the hell out of the one I installed previously. Took it for a trial fun in the garage. Oil Pressure never went above 58 PSI and it help steady consistantly the entire time. Amazing really. I am super stoked about it.

Awesome, great news! Glad it turned out to be something easy.

Great....

Getting a tapping under load for some reason. Only while driving. When I had it on the jackstands spinning tires, or idling/revving in the garage or in neutral I hear nothing. It starts right around 2150RPMs. Research has turned up so many posibilities.

Not getting any codes. so I can't see where it would be the new knock sensor.
Valves aren't adjustable, so I am not sure where to go from there.
Exhaust manifolds have been repaired and the manifold gaskets are new.
Reman Heads came fully loaded, so I am assuming the valve seals and seating were all done correctly.
Fuel Injectors are brand new. But it could be them cycling?
Oil Pressure couldn't be any more perfect.
I haven't put in new gas yet. It is 6 months old. I used Sta-bil in the tank before I started the rebuild. But it might be time to give it some fresh fuel. I never use regular. I use no less then Plus/89 octane. Think I should I try some 93/Ultra?

Engine temp has been running oddly low. It warms up to about 150 then drops to 120-135 while out driving. Wondering if maybe it has something to do with the thermostat being stuck open possibly? The thermostat is new (high performance opens at 180 Degrees). I noticed at the normal operating temp (175-185) the tapping is gone completely. These frigid temps here lately certainly aren't helping, but it shouldn't be preventing the engine from reaching normal temp.