Reply needed straight away

I sure hope I'm wrong, but that sounds like a wrist pin. Hopefully something more simple though. Good luck.

Could it be an exhaust tick, like a bad flexpipe or donut gasket? Only opens when the engine has a hefty lean on it?

Derek,
I don't have any flexpipes in my exhaust. They are all solid piping. Exhaust manifolds are welded together. The front to back crossover pipe I tightened as best I could. There is that EGR pipe that goes into the rear manifold. I loosened it when I did the retorque after the first start up. I'll have to check to make sure it is tight enough. I'll give that a go and try the new gas. All I can do it try little things.

Dave,
I am really not sure how the wrist pin could be making that noise. The wrist pins can only move left and right in the piston along their hole. There is no play up or down or any other direction. And when they are in the cylinder. Unless the bearings are completely shot or the left to right play from the connecting rod on the crank is way too much then the wrist pin should be fine.

Could I maybe have overtightened the exhaust manifold studs? Would that cause an issue? I did see a lot involving the exhaust while researching. I didn't have a torque wrench to fit down in there to torque them to proper spec. I won't lie I put a good bit of torque on them. Should I back them off and try to torque them close to the spec as best as possible?

I know it IS possible to warp a header flange by overtightening, and IIRC the Series I exhaust manifolds are a lot like header flanges. I was just thinking exhaust tick or something because a heavy load would be pushing the engine front/back and might open something up at that flex joint.

You might be able to simulate with the car stopped, hood up and one foot hard on the brake while you push it in 1 to make the engine rock with a load and see if it creates a similar sound. There are the hopefully obvious dangers of course, of having somebody poking around under the hood while you have motion pressure on the wheels, so take precautions.

Retorqued the exhaust manifold studs and tightened the EGR pipe to rear manifold. Then drove out to get some 93 Octane gas and used some Lucas fuel cleaner I had left over in the trunk.

Derek,
I did what you said, by myself mind you. Turned off the radio, propped up the hood, and left the driver's door open. Put on the e-brake, put it in first and jammed down the brake while pushing the engine to 2000 RPMs. I heard the tick loud and clear. I'll have to try again when I have someone I can trust to help me.

I really need to get myself a stethoscope or long screwdriver so I can pinpoint. Unfortunately, it is manifesting the same damn noise I rebuilt the engine to fix. The steady ticking noise, not as loud, but still there. When I stick my head next to the block, near the upper radiator hose, I can hear it more clearly. A lifter maybe? Ticking wasn't any louder when I removed the oil cap. Would it be worth running some SeaFoam in the oil to clean out any unmentionables in the oiling system? I did try flushing out the block the best I could during the rebuild, but I'm sure I didn't get rid of it all. Remember the copper residue from the worn out bearings? Just watched a video on how to check to make sure each lifter is pullings its weight. I'll pop the valve covers and use a flathead screwdriver to check the lifter bleed down by lifting on the rocker arm. Make sure none seem worn out. Would seem odd for new lifters, but things aren't made like they used to be, so it isn't impossible.

Ugh....old cars i'll tell ya. So temperatmental!

Just out of curiosity, are you sure it isn't the timing chain slapping around inside the front cover?
I didn't read if you replaced it or not.....

I replaced the timing set in the car, yes, and replaced the chain dampener. Before the rebuild, it didn't have any timing chain dampener because it was completely gone. The ticking is coming more from the tranny side, not the belt assembly side.

You had the engine out, so can I assume you checked the flywheel for cracks?

Never removed the engine block. The block stayed in the car with the Cam and Crank. I do intend to get the transmission rebuilt/replaced in the summer.

Right, forgot you did it that way. Hmmm. Can you take the inspection cover off and get a good look at the flywheel? I've taken them out of vehicles before that I didn't have to unbolt the torque converter or crank bolts - complete separation - but they were running fine other than some unusual clanking.

Actually I had that cover off when the lower half of the engine was torn apart. I never saw any issues with it. I can easily take it off again while I do some of the other work.

Just a thought based on the location you are describing the noise from. It's worth a look.

You're right of course. It would make sense when the noise is made only while actually driving the car. Won't know for sure unless I try that revving in drive technique with someone in the driver's seat while I poke around. I may be able to check this evening.

Alright Fellas,

First, I removed the valve covers and checked the valve lifter's bleed off. There was none. They stayed strong and true. It ended up pushing down on the valves themselves instead. So the lifters aren't the problem. Retorqued the rocker arm bolts in firing sequence. Still a little chatter from the valvetrain, but I will never get rid of that.

Second, I had my brother sit in the driver's seat, revving the engine to around 1500 RPMs while in drive. I could clearly hear the sound coming from the flywheel/transfer case area. I'm glad because it has nothing to do with the engine itself, but i'm afraid to do too much driving or push it too hard for fear that the tranny will drop out. I will jack it up tomorrow and take off the flywheel inspection cover to give it a good once over. Shouldn't be too hard.

The engine doesn't give any leaks, which is promising, but I always get a couple, and I mean a couple drops off of the transfer case gasket after I'm done driving it. Never enough to show on the dipstick. That tranny is the next thing to get fixed. But still have to wait for that.

I removed the flywheel inspection cover. Not really sure what to look for there. I don't see any cracks, it isn't loose and there aren't any broken teeth. Any other ideas? could it be something with the torque converter? I really dont have the tools to tear off the transfer case cover myself in order to check it all out.

There is no cover that you can remove to get access to the torque converter or flywheel (flexplate). You would have to pull the transmission out to fully view them. The inspection cover you just removed is all the access your going to get with the tranny in the car. If you are convinced the noise is coming from the tranny, converter or flexplate I would just drive the car and figure it out when your ready to rebuild the tranny. If you think it is coming from the motor, such as a "WRISTPIN" then you would want to find and repair that ASAP.

Dave,
If it will make you happy, once I hit the 200 mile mark I will drain the oil, drop the pan and check for connecting rod play within the engine. I don't think I am going to find anything noteworthy.

Honestly, when I drive it, I have been noticing it taking longer to shift in OD. My speed has to be a little higher then before and the engine holds higher RPMs through 3rd and OD. The tranny has had progressively worse slipping issues for a few years. Now that the engine is rebuilt, is holding better power than before, I don't think the transmission can really handle it. I expected that.

Don't go doing anything to make me happy.   I hope it is not a wrist pin, but your symptoms match that of a bad one. I don't think you will be able to diagnose it by simply dropping the pan and checking the rods for play. When a wrist pin is bad, the piston will slightly tilt in the cylinder under load and usually only make noise when the engine is not completely warmed up. At operating temperature it will stop making noise.

I haven't had to deal with one in many years, but a quick test you could try is : pull plug wires one at a time and listen for the sound you have been hearing. If you are sure the sound is coming from near the tranny, you may want to start with #5 and # 6 cylinders. Sounds will echo through the block so it could be any cylinder though. If the sound remains constant through this test, you can rule out a wrist pin. If the noise changes (sometimes it goes away but usually it will seem to get louder and faster), then you have narrowed it down to that cylinder. Good luck and I sure hope it ends up being very a simple problem. I would hate for you to have to take your motor apart again.

Dave,
I'll give that test a go today at some point. Unfortunately, the noise only happens while it is in gear, and happens whether it is colder or completely warmed up. Which means the only way to really hear it is to have someone in the car giving it gas while in drive holding the brake as I pull plug wires. Not the easiest thing to do.

If the noise is audible from inside the car, you won't need a helper. If you take the plug wires off at the coils, it should be easier. No need to reach down to the plugs. Also, in an earlier post you said the noise goes away when the engine reaches normal operating temp. Has that changed?

Guess what boys?! I figured it out! The EGR module was clicking. Took a bit. I had to play with the throttle and took a pair of channel locks I had pressed against it to hear it like a stethoscope. I wonder why it could of been doing that? I went and got a replacement. Installed it and fired up the engine. I heard a loud "POP!" and a smell of something burnt and now the new EGR is doing the same thing as the last one. I heard that pop and that smell a couple times before when starting it up. Now I'm looking for some type of vacuum leak or a shorted wire.

If u don't need emissions test take all that crap off!!!

I think somebody here with a '95 had a bad EGR tube and it was basically made of unobtanium. I don't remember how they fixed it. It was somewhat intermittent like yours.

I think it was Andy with the green 'Racera' or something.

The only emission testing I have to have done is a visual on the catalytic convertor and the gas cap gets tested for pressure holding. I wonder what would happen if I just disconnected the EGR electrical connector. I cant just take it all off. Id have to plug a big hole in the intake manifold where it connects and the rear exhaust manifold where the return pipe connects.

I'll have to search up that thread then. see if anything come up. I took apart the old EGR. It just sounds like the plungers inside are tapping really hard. The vacuum is stronger then it was before the rebuild. Maybe that is affecting it.

That's great news. Beats having to tear the motor apart or pulling the tranny.