jerKS under load replaced just about everything ! !!

new wires and plugs 15k ago   good ones ac Delco new ign mod and coil for cyc 3 yesterday   misfire under load but not all the time, comes and goes  feels like a spark plug wire short to ground  cleaned maf any ideas
11/7/14 showing egr and evap sensor but evap ch out good sometimes it just dies like I shut off the ignition mostly when on a entrance ramp turning right but at times just backing into a parking spot always starts up could this be a crank sensor?? what is driver 3 line 5 trouble code all about anyway???

Try another spark plug. Sometimes you can crack the ceramic while installing and it will do what you describe.

deekster_caddy wrote:

Try another spark plug. Sometimes you can crack the ceramic while installing and it will do what you describe.

New plugs, wires Delco new ig mod one coil (misfire cycle 3) maf, cps, replaced problem still there,,,, is this a tranny as I do have shutter? egr was throwing a code as well can a dealer really find deeper codes??... my wrench is very good and as his advise I replaced the maf aND cps
I'm at a loss guess the next step is pay the 80 for a dealer to tackle this problem

What is the misfire code? Sounds like you should inspect the spark plugs closely. What specifically is the code number?

The only other thing I can think of is an injector that is clogged enough so that you get a lean misfire.  I'd send all 6 of the injectors to Mr. Injector.  Pretty inexpensive and fast.

http://www.mrinjector.us/

Thanks guys you have both said what I have been thinking. I spoke to my wrench and he said new plugs and wires OR injection system problem as well. I had the wires and plugs replaced about 15k back but he did say he has seen bad parts right from the box.
I haven't ck the code but as expected the ses is on but it always pops a (1665) which I think is evap solenoid and I had that replaced than learned how to rest it,,,it was not the problem. Perhaps the connection from the solenoid but that's not causing this symptom I'm sure. Not today it died one time, just as if I cut the key, and that has happened before. I was wondering if it was related to the remote start I had installed last year???? Or the vats system in general??
This problem comes and goes as sometimes it runs just like a new rive. hhhuumm Maybe I am in need of a new riviera ???? But they are really starting to come with lots of miles say right at the breakdown poiny and I KNOW this one and injectors is about all I haven't replaced ,,,yet. What is the turn around time on the injectors and will it pop a code for this pertaining to fule mixture or only misfire cyc 3
If I ever find the 05 park ave I want maybe I.ll move up. But I really like my riv !!!!

You mentioned a coil was replaced. Just one? You could try swapping the good coil with the others to see if the misfire code changes. Or buy one more coil to swap in.

It seems like you have a few different problems unrelated to each other, but the shuddering is most likely ignition, even though it often feels like a transmission issue. This is commonly the case.

I don't know if your injectors are causing any issue, but cleaning them is always a good idea if the car has over 100k miles. Service for all 6 will run you about $100 and turn around time is about a week.

"Move up" to Park Ave from Riviera? Not a chance! Riviera was Buick's flagship.

and the mystery continues !!!! I have been doing some field research and this is what I have found.
First the evap code 1665 has been a constant from the day I bought the car. New gas cap didn't help nor the evap solenoid replacement itself ( I ck for vac off the car it seems to work fine so I took the part back ) That was 25k ago.. I do have a p0401 current but this is the real mystery .........
When I start the car (doesn't make a difference if the engine is warm or cold ) and I have the jerk thing when under load what I have noticed 6 times now is that if I shut it down and restart ......everything runs just fine Sometimes, with the first start the idle will surge and fall and die unless I give it fuel ...... than it seems to settle down BUT it will still jerk or miss or what ever the hell it does UNTIL I shut it down and RESTART. Now I have had a tranny shutter forever and a "friend" said the torque converter was kicking in and out causing the jerk BUT why would shutting it off and doing a restart FIX this problem??? And like you said this shuddering is most likely ign. Well guys,,,,,, any ideas???? I was goanna bid on a park ave today but I'm sold on this riv and I will get it running right,,,,,,for a lot less than the park ave would cost anyway:lol:

1) check/replace the vac line to the evap solenoid, you may have to make one up with rubber cement and stock tubing.

2) p0401 may be bad EGR, they soot up then the pintle won't seat. Get a good one, delphi or delco.

3) shut down and restart - runs fine then later runs bad - probably it starts running bad when it transitions to closed loop for emission controls. You will need to fix the EGR and EVAP problems first before tackling this one.

4) You may or may not have a bad crank sensor, only way to test it is heating it somehow, if more than 100K miles on it think about replacing it as general maintenance and whatever you do DO NOT GET A CHEAP ONE - the failure point on these is how the electronics in it are encapsulated, again get a Delphi or Delco.

Albertj

Ok to continue....I have replaced all plugs and wire (AC Delco) Some were fouled due to oil leaking from valve cover ?????? Anyway problem still there, I have ck the vac hose on the evap and it looks very good. The egr valve would be the next step and I see where you can clean them and test as well for electrical problems. Now someone told me to ck the fuel pressure regulator be turning the key on ,,,than off ,,,,than on and start the engine,,,,, I will try this and take notes. It still works to turn the engine off and than restart ,,,,,,, it runs great after this procedure ,,,,,, has for the 8 times I have done this,,,,,,,It always runs well after this,,,,,,,, no hesitation ,,,,no misfire under load ect ect
As to # 3 above it runs find UNTIL I shut it down wait,,,, THan do the restart. Maybe Ill try a restart immediately to test more variables for this problem.
That egr valve is over $100 on ebay and Im a little discouraged with all this I could go all out and take it somewhere to be smoked I'm out of patience but I'll keep pushing Thanks forall the support

When it "transitions to closed loop does this happen immediately ??? as the problem is immediate

Ck this out,,,, If I turn the key on,,,,,than off,,,,than start the car,,,,,,,,I have no problem,,,,,,,
What the heck is going on !!!!!!! I'm going to replace the vac line from the evap if it is not too much I found a small crack in this at the fitting and repaired it with electrical tape this summer . I don't believe it was losing that much vac. If the code on the egr is 0401 this indicates carbon in the intake as opposed to a bad egr valve . This is an easy fix,,,,,but its winter in Wisconsin so I got to pay my guy and my friend is getting tired of giving me a loaner by now lol. How about a problem in the fuel regulator ???? And why does turning the ign sw on and off fix the problem in the first place ????????

If the torque converter is locking up and not releasing, it will absolutely cause a shudder and feel like crazy misfires. The reason it gets "better" when you cycle the Ignition is because the trans "resets" itself every time you turn the key off.

Have you tried driving the car just in 2nd gear? Or maybe just 3rd? Try driving around (not fast obviously), and see if the problem still arises. If it seems good in 2nd, increase speed, shift to 3rd, and wait for Converter lockup. Once in converter lockup, slow down, and manually shift into 2nd. The Converter should release itself when you do this. If it doesn't, and bucks and jerks all over the place, you know where to look.....

I'll c this out on turkey day sure hope that ainthe the problem I already have 2500 in this car for the last 3 op miles not been a good rig not like my 95 at all

I had an issue like this with my first 98 Riv. I did everything you did only to find out it was a broken wire in one of the wiring harnesses on the TB. I would check that out for sure. Hopefully you find your issue.

OK so just what is the TB ?

A
And do it have the same symtoms ie turn it one once and start.,,,,, problem turn it in twice before start,,,,,, no problem

digimi wrote:

OK  so just what is the TB ?

Throttle Body

I don't remember all the symptoms but it was annoying. I ended up paying a dealership to find it and it was the broken wire after changing and cleaning everything. Good luck man.

Thanks the hunt continues today I'm out $150 For one rear brake line 150 here 150 there long story about 2000 for the last 35000 miles
in repairsz-zz☆-

Now when I have the mere proper if I feather the gas petal the problem disappears ,,,,, is this a tps problem ?

So now when I start the car the rim float up am down until it dies or until I feather the gas and hols a study rpm. When the idea is constang than everything runs fine. No Jeri under load and it runs great. Is this the tps?

ok I did the tc test and it seems fine. Now I have noticed that when I first start up it will miss under load """BUT"""" if I just turn on the key,,,turn off the key ,,,,turn on a "second" time and start the car it runs like new,,,,,, Every time I go in this order on,,,off,,,on and start,,,,NEVER a problem Is this my computer ???? I see oem parts on ebay for like $30 bucks and it looks really easy to replace. That's a lot cheaper than the parts I've had put in so far. Does recycling the computer cause it to reset the values or something like that,,,,, I have a lot of people around town and they want to clean the throttle body or replace the egr (which is reading a p0401) BUT im thinking that's not whats causing this particular problem. HELP

Maybe the Ignition Switch is toast? Or slowly becoming toast?