Write-Up: Sequential Turn Signals

Thanks, I actually didn't even see that one!

me either... their customer service is pretty good. The guy knew right away what would work and suggested it. It's a $90'ish total cost. But a great mod!

ONLY problem...I can't see them when I'm driving! ha!

I'm having an issue where my LEFT (driver) turn signal and brake lights will work perfectly fine and will function great sequentially, but when I try to put my right (passenger) turn signal on, the arrow on the dash gauges stays solid and does not flash, nor do the turn signal lights themselves. Only the inner-most right (passenger) turn signal light of the three will come on when the turn signal is or the brakes are engaged, but will not flash. The other two outer-most lights on the right hand side don't blink at all but stay dim.

When I turn the hazards on, all lights on the driver's side blink sequentially, but only the inner-most light (the one closest to the license plate) on the passenger side will blink.

The issue has been off and on starting this last summer. The turn signal would go out for about an hour and then would start working again. Then, a few weeks later, it would stop working for a day, then would work just fine the next day. Now, this issue has been going on for two days straight. I have a Thundercat TCSF-03 module I bought from somebody on here that was originally used and I installed it some time in 2009. I have re-done all connections from the module to the lamps and the flasher under the dashboard is basically brand new.

Has anybody else had any problems with their sequentials?

Have you checked the bulbs in the right taillight?

I replaced every single bulb back there, yup! One of the bulbs on the passenger side was burned out, and yet it still will not light when I brake or use the turn signal. It still comes on when I unlock the car, just does not blink or flash.

I had an issue with the back of the bulb cutting a wire and shorting out. The bulbs press up against the trunk wall, and this can cause wear. Worth a look. I fixed mine with new insulation and some modification of the bulb housing.

AA wrote:

I had an issue with the back of the bulb cutting a wire and shorting out. The bulbs press up against the trunk wall, and this can cause wear. Worth a look. I fixed mine with new insulation and some modification of the bulb housing.

x2

Thanks guys - these turn signals have lasted for years with no issues until now, it's just odd that some kind of crimping issue would finally have an effect on functionality - I'll check the back this coming weekend, but since posting this, the sequencer has worked again for about 7 days straight.

Blargh!

Just want to let the club know that, I AM DOING THIS. Are all the bulbs in the taillight the same size? Do I need 8 of them? 3 on each side and 2 for the reverse? Looking at part number #3057 There's a #L3057 and a #3057LL does that mean anything?

charlieRobinson wrote:

Just want to let the club know that, I AM DOING THIS. Are all the bulbs in the taillight the same size? Do I need 8 of them? 3 on each side and 2 for the reverse? Looking at part number #3057 There's a #L3057 and a #3057LL does that mean anything?

Hi Charlie,

Nate would have to say if WebElectrics sends different bulbs with the 3MP kit that 'fakes' the center bulbs without having to alter the sockets, but the stock center taillights are 194's, the outer taillights are 57's and the backups are 56... They make 'em starting in 30xx, 31xx, 32xx, etc, and they have different candlepowers which should be listed on the back of the package. LL means Long Life, something desirable with our crazy taillight assemblies, so when I replaced all my bulbs I shopped around to get the highest candlepower LL's I could.

Mark

Mark, I've read that anything over a 3157 puts you at risk (if OEM calls for a 3057) for wiring melt down. What power did you decide to go with?

I don't remember the specifics now, I went with whichever long-life bulb had the most lumens at the time. I don't know what you're reading, but the difference between those bulbs is not going to cause any current problem... I shouldn't think that 10 lumens per bulb would add up to more than an amp total difference.

I meant, anything over a 3157 may put you at risk for melt down.
Unless I can find something better today, I am going with Sylvania 3157s. Represent ma hometown.

Charlie,

ANY bulb that fits the socket is NOT going to melt our stranded-copper wiring... As an example of how little the difference in load is, here is a GE chart:

http://www.topbulb.com/find/Catalogs/GE_Mini_Sealed.pdf

man, this 14 year old electrical tape is NASTY

Is there any reason whats soever that wiring the tailights wrong will not let the car start? cause this wiring is not working out for me and now my car won't start.. It makes a funny sound when it tries to turn over and it sounds awful.

Either the wiring in the taillight is tied to the starter or something else decided to poop out all of a sudden. WTF!?!

I'm going to try to jump it and hope it's my battery from leaving the lights on for two hours

Dead battery possibly?

I don't think the battery would drain that fast.. The headlights and electronics are going nuts. Going to try and jump it now and see what happens

Sounds like bat to me to. Once left the lesabre like that and it wouldn't start then the electronics started freakin out and it refused to shut off the accessory power til it was completely dead. Took 4 cars and a truck before I could jump it back to life. Crap battery

I would say I'm retarded but I don't want to offend anyone, so I'll just say I should have known better.

I totally dismissed a dead battery because my battery is strong and I only left the keys in the car for maybe 30 minutes but no more than 45. I had no idea that's all it would take to drain this beast. Pretty disappointed about that.

The possessed relays flickering and popping, and the poltergeist in my electronics made me think it was something besides the battery. Besides, at the time of critical mission failure I had enough power to keep the headlights as bright as ever, power seats still worked, everything was lit up and functioned fine, even the stereo.

I was desperate for a solution so I tried jumping it with the Impala and SHA BLAM, Aggie was back to life.

Anyways, I am going to report back with my sequential woes once I get a diagram made to show where I was completely confused by the included instructions with my kit.

Time to load test your battery.

Was the key in the ignition on position, or accessory? Ign will draw a lot more juice especially if you have the lights on.

You can get away with a battery on its last leg for quite a while. It's enough to start the car, and it might even seem like everything is fine, but eventually it catches up to you. I'd invest in an Optima Red Top from AutoZone and get it over with. Your car will be strong and reliable for another 5 years at least.

Lights on for 2 hours would drain a good battery. I would recommend fully charging it and having it load tested before investing $150 or more in a new one.

Ok. This is where I lost it. Steps 8 and 9. I don't know about your assemblies but on mine there are only 3 wires on the outside lamps. Yellow, purple, and black on the left and Green, brown, and black on the right. It says there are two signal wires on the outside lamp, 2 yellows on the left and 2 greens on the right, but mine only have 1? Anyone know the right way to wire this up? Codith, I think you have the same set? I saw your pictures but couldn't follow your wiring.
I got the STS-3MP Sequencer Kit from webelectricproducts.com

I posted a wiring diagram on page 2. Might help.