Motor died today.

Oopps, thought we were talking about crank sensors, never mind.

That's OK Larry.

The topic was CPS related and somehow the ignition switch migrated into the conversation.

Hope all is well with you and your family during this Covid-19 crap. We've been hunkered down for 2 months now and I'm going crazy. Weather has been gray and gloomy to add to it.
Can't wait for spring to come with some sunshine.

I know I'm off topic but I just had to bring it up, as I'm concerned about all of our brothers in arms on here.
Good luck and stay healthy.
Rick

Rickw wrote:

JR,
Did you check that the P/N I posted above is the correct one for your 97.?????
Rick

RockAuto also shows ACDELCO D1482D for 97 Riviera SC.

The price is much less than for ACDELCO D1438F, which is more inline with what you paid for D1482D. Go figure.

FWIW the CPS I have is AC Delco #213-4664, GM #88864356.

Going by the theory that RockAuto uses the same part photos for rebadged parts, the AC Delco I have is the no bueno Standard. I guess I should have went for the Delphi that is $10 cheaper.

OK
Then it looks like the harness/switch assembly I have will fit your car.
With that said, if you don't need it right away I'll try and get it out this week.
The only only reason I thought I needed a new one was when the car would do a "No Start" - "No Crank" intermittently.

Based on what I had read at the time it appeared that the switch was the issue. But as you now know it was only a dirty fuse.

Anyway, I'll mail it to you and after you get it if you could mail me a check to cover shipping I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,
Rick

Rickw wrote:

That's OK Larry.

The topic was CPS related and somehow the ignition switch migrated into the conversation.

Hope all is well with you and your family during this Covid-19 crap. We've been hunkered down for 2 months now and I'm going crazy. Weather has been gray and gloomy to add to it.
Can't wait for spring to come with some sunshine.

I know I'm off topic but I just had to bring it up, as I'm concerned about all of brothers on here. Good luck and stay healthy.
Rick

Thanks Rick,
All is well here, feeling fine. I'm single with no kids, so it is easy for me to keep my risk very low. I was always very conscious of keeping my hands clean and away from my face. I wear a mask anytime I might be in close quarters like in the supermarket. No problem getting what I need. I've dusted off my old weight set, and set it up in the garage with my 1970. Work on the car and work out. Also run on the off days. My part time job furloughed me for 2 months or more. In the letter they sent me, they encouraged me to apply for Unemployment Insurance, which I did, and I am receiving. I feel very blessed not to have any financial problems whatsoever. I know there are lots of people less fortunate than that. The stress and loss of sleep hurts your immune system, the last thing anyone needs. Not sure what the car season will be like. I hope they can figure out a way to hold some cruise meets, I look forward to them during the winter. Be well.

Jack the R wrote:

FWIW the CPS I have is AC Delco #213-4664, GM #88864356.

Going by the theory that RockAuto uses the same part photos for rebadged parts, the AC Delco I have is the no bueno Standard.     I guess I should have went for the Delphi that is $10 cheaper.

Don't hit the despair button too fast -- if Delco insisted on the engineering, the Standard part will have been improved before they put the Delco name on it. Granted I would not buy it compared to the Delphi *but* it's not like it won't hit the quality level they targeted. Plus, you're not looking at the T-Series by Standard, which is the price-engineered line card. I think you'll be Okay.

At least there appears to be a grace period where the car only dies while idling. I'm sure it'll eventually die at speed but I've had time to act on it. I'll pick up a Delphi and stick it somewhere.

What all do I need to do this job? How long a prybar do I need for the starter bump trick? Do I need an air impact wrench to remove the harmonic balancer? I'd need a better compressor to run one of those. Are any of O'Reilly's harmonic balancer puller's good, or is there another you'd recommend - link

Jack the R wrote:

What all do I need to do this job?  How long a prybar do I need for the starter bump trick?  Do I need an air impact wrench to remove the harmonic balancer?  I'd need a better compressor to run one of those.  Are any of O'Reilly's harmonic balancer puller's good, or is there another you'd recommend - link

That is the same puller I have owned for many years albeit a Snap-On unit but it worked fine for pulling the Harmonic Balancer.
Originally purchased it several decades ago as a steering wheel puller. Just need the correct length and thread pitch bolts for the job. I can't remember what they were now. Bad case of CRS. I think the manual spells it out or there was a thread on here with the details.

I also purchased a new bolt from GM as I read the center fastener was a Torque to Yield bolt. (one time use only)

But in hindsight I probably wouldn't hesitate to use the same bolt now. As long as it came out without problems.

I used an air gun with my compressor because it would work. But the the other option is to hold/jam the flywheel and then use a socket, small extension and breaker bar to remove the center bolt from the balancer. I believe that's the way the manual says to do it.

If you can't get the loaner puller let me know and I'll ship mine. But I think the cost to ship it down and back would cost more than a puller from your local store that will be adequate to do the job. Let me know.

Rickw wrote:

Jack the R wrote:

What all do I need to do this job?  How long a prybar do I need for the starter bump trick?  Do I need an air impact wrench to remove the harmonic balancer?  I'd need a better compressor to run one of those.  Are any of O'Reilly's harmonic balancer puller's good, or is there another you'd recommend - link

That is the same puller I have owned for many years albeit a Snap-On unit but it worked fine for pulling the Harmonic Balancer.

Which one? The Lisle is $20, I'd buy that one if it would work.

Rickw wrote:

Just need the correct length and thread pitch bolts for the job. I can't remember what they were now. Bad case of CRS. I think the manual spells it out or there was a thread on here with the details.

I've seen the other thread. I'll find the bolts if the ones in the puller I end up buying won't work.

Rickw wrote:

I used an air gun with my compressor because it would work. But the the other option is to hold/jam the flywheel and then use a socket, small extension and breaker bar to remove the center bolt from the balancer. I believe that's the way the manual says to do it.

Thanks, I didn't if that was an "either" or "both."

JR,
I wouldn't hesitate to buy the Lisle tool. I have many special tools made by them and they have worked fine for my occasional needs.
Very well made stuff in my opinion.

Rickw wrote:

JR,
I wouldn't hesitate to buy the Lisle tool. I have many special tools made by them and they have worked fine for my occasional needs.
Very well made stuff in my opinion.

O.K., so looking at the Lisle 45300 - Link

It says to order the retrofit kit 45350 - Link

What do I need a retrofit kit for?

The 45300 says it is for the 3.8, do I still need to track down special bolts?  It seems like the ones in the 45300 should work, but perhaps that is not the case with the supercharged motor?

Quote from the 45300 Link:
"Order the 45350 Retrofit Kit to use with your Lisle 45500 Harmonic Balancer Puller."

You only need the Retrofit Kit if you should currently own the #45500 puller.

I think your safe buying the 45300 listed for the 3800 engine, be it SC or Non-SC. The tread pitch and bolt length should be the same. I don't think the Harmonic Balancer was different between the 2.

Thanks, glad you caught that!