Glad to hear you have an LKQ near you. It's so nice to be able to get a "Condition" assessment" Such as a "A+", "A", "A-" , etc before you even see the part and can trust that's exactly what your going to get.
The one that show up here was listed as an "A", but only because it had some small areas that needed sanding and painting.
It was only the factory paint that had some small issues. The metal was as solid as brand new. I was going to either sand blast it, prime then paint or just use some sandpaper and paint it. That's all it really needed to be an "A+".
Good luck with your search and good luck with the replacing of the unit. There could be some hick-ups in the dis-assembly but not anything definite. Just spray the heck out of all the mounting points and the rear tie rods(if that's what there called) with penetrating spray periodically while you wait for a new part. I would spray with penetrating spray every few days and try to loosen stuff up even before you get the new support so you can see if you may need some other parts to get the job done.
The rear is so much easier and less expensive than the front cradle. I paid $500.00 for the front cradle from Morads before I knew about LKQ being a few miles from me and what their cost policy was. Then I bought all the new bushings and put new lower control arms on it while I had the "New" cradle out and ready to go back in. cost me over a grand, easy to get it done with a fresh front end alignment.
That reminds me, the rear has cams that torque arms connect to in the center that will need a lot of penetrating spray also with hopes you can get them loose. Should be able to with spray and if necessary air tools.
You can modify hockey pucks to replace the rubber mounts in the rear without noticing any effect on how the car rides and it will save you hundreds on trying to find and replace the OEM bushings with the rubber parts. The rear end will tighten up in the corners but your air ride system will keep it comfortable.
That's what I was going to do based on another members write up on the RSSA.
Anyway, like anything else that is rotted/rusted you may come across some difficult bolts and nuts to remove but nothing that some spray lube or heat from a torch can't solve.
You will need to mark your rear tie-rods to be sure they go back in the same position for proper alignment.
But when all is said and done I would still pay for a 4 wheel alignment to be sure your tires are tracking straight after disturbing the independent rear suspension.
If possible do a search for "RSSA" and you should find a thread on replacing the rear section that your going to be doing.
Good luck and ask all the questions you want. Even though I never did get to do the job, I did research the hell out of it and have part number lists and so forth. I can copy and fax or copy and mail what I have if you have a problem. But I think you'll find what you need right here on this site with a little searching.