Write-Up: Fixing Outside Door Handle

stan wrote:

What type of silicone do u guys use?

I don't know the name, but It's just what you would find at the auto parts store. I got mine at NAPA.

Ohhh thanx Daymon.... Will ask at the store

stan wrote:

Ohhh thanx Daymon.... Will ask at the store

Don't do what I did and look right over the silicone and ask the worker there where it was and they point right where you just looked.

Fun fact, if you have a car without a sunroof and replace the door rubbers with one's out of a car with a sunroof they will have a tighter seal and the door will actually pop open a little by itself when you unlatch the door handle.

Really?....i have a sunroof and the doors always pop a little hahaha

I had my door handle break awhile back. I fixed it with jb weld first and it didn't last very long. For awhile I just instructed people to pull down on the rod and open the door that way, as I left the handle off. A friend of mine thought that meant grab it and twist and he broke the piece of plastic off the end of it that holds it to the latch. Now that I have my new handle to put on I still can't fix it. Does anyone know where I could get a new rod, or even how I could fix the piece of plastic on the end of it. It's a small round clip that hooks into the hole on the latch.

Had an experience today, not one of my proudest moments. So a couple months back, when we had our first freezing rain, I pulled the passenger door handle and it snapped internally. "No biggie", I said. "I'll just open the door from inside when passengers need in." The plan was to fix this handle in the spring.

The Riviera is and always has been a 2-door coupe. For some reason it didn't occur to me I was down to one door handle. This morning it snapped, in the same way as the passenger side. Now, if you've never broken into a Riviera before, you're in for a treat. It has to be one of the most difficult cars to gain access.

First, I unlocked the doors with the remote. Next inserted a soft-handled ice scraper between the weather stripping and the side window glass, wedged it in for about a 3/8" gap. Then using some 18 ga. mechanic's wire (16 probably would be better), I created the 'lasso' for snaring the handle. Go in from the top edge of the window. This takes between 15-30 mins alone, maybe 5 mins with a spotter on the opposite side (my lovely wife did a great job). Once the handle was hooked, I secured it to keep tension (this is important), then fed the other end of the wire back through the window into the back seat. It's important not to feed the wire through the seat belt.

If you're wondering why I fed the wire into the back seat, it's because I tried pulling the door handle with the wire from the window, and there's just not enough leverage. Maybe if you pull really hard, but I didn't want to brake anything more than it already was.

The next part requires modification, unless you've already removed the leather flap that feeds into the trunk above the open armrest. Just remove the carpeted cardboard back wall in the trunk and pull a few staples to free the leather, then fold it down over the stamped chassis member. Now you have a pass-through.

Before yanking on the wire through the pass-through, I had my assistant secure the wire while I got into the trunk (take remote with you just in case). Using a string tied to the wire, she kept tension between the wire and handle, so the wire didn't slip off. I found a 3 ft long garden stake and a 2x4 (7' or so) from the garage, then got into the trunk and reached through the pass-through.

I grabbed the wire, then used the garden stake to fish the wire over the driver seat, my assistant still applying tension with the string. Now I carefully pushed the 2x4 up through the pass-though and wedged it between the wire and the right side of the seat (over the center console), so the wire was now riding the flat side of the 2x4. I pushed the 2x4 forward so that it's about 8" forward the seat back, then put on my gloves and pulled hard. Used my knee to leverage the 2x4 and the door handle popped and door opened.

God, I hope I never have to waste part of my life doing that again. Now to find two fresh door handles...

LOL  that sucks, dude! Are you just going to leave the door cracked open until you get a new handle?


I hate these handles/latch mechanisms, really. One day I will do something else with them!

I removed the driver side catch. Bungee connecting inside door pull handles.

I seem to have a problem with installing these door handles correctly. The first one, I was able to get both bolts thread and snug, but the handle wasn't seated properly. It lasted me until one morning when the handle snapped in half. Surprisingly, nothing internal broke.

Fast forward and I install the new door handle I got, and I have it in place correctly this time, but the holes for the bolts don't line up. So, for the time being I decided to run with one bolt. I close the door and expect to have a sigh of relief when it opens back up, but there's nothing. I don't know what the problem is with this crap. It's starting to get real annoying real fast.

I'm deathly afraid of breaking my passenger door handle.

Ugggghhhhh! I am so irritated by this stupid door handle. I just went out to try again and took it completely out, lined up both bolts, put that rod thing back in the hole (TWSS), and it still doesn't open. I even compared this door handle to the last one I had and the original one to see if something broke, and they look pretty much identical to each other. I'm at a loss.

I'm about ready to take it somewhere and see what they can do, but I doubt there's anything they can do different than what I've been doing. Plus, they'd probably break something.

These door handles are probably my least favorite part of the car. I've replaced three so far... It's not a terrible job by the time you've done in twice lol. They are kind of awkward to position though.

Daymon, are you reconnecting both the rod for the lock and the one for the handle to actually open the door? Not insulting your intelligence, just making sure you didn't overlook something.

If someone made billet ones, or even stamped steel ones, I would be absolutely stoked.

I did reconnect the rod to open the door.

When I replaced the door handle the first time, I didn't utilize the lock cylinder because I don't have a key fob and I'm not worried about anyone stealing my car (or anything in it) anyways. It worked without the lock cylinder that time. Both times replacing the door handle, I haven't utilized the lock cylinder, but for some reason, the door won't open this time.

The resistance in the door handle installed in the car and while holding it in my hand is the same. It's like I'm not pulling the door handle high enough to disengage whatever holds it closed. I can only pull the handle so high before it gets as high as it possibly can.

I started questioning maybe something that holds the door closed is malfunctioning and/or broken, but that means I wouldn't be able to open the door from the inside...I think. Also, I didn't change anything between the first replacement (now broken) door handle and this one. I don't see how a door mechanism can all of a sudden break while nobodies touched it for two weeks.

I went about fixing my broken handles (both left/right) by replacing them with this pair of replacements from AM Autoparts (eBay, $34.95 shipped):

http://stores.ebay.com/amautoparts/Door-Handles-Exterior-/_i.html?_fsub=11585825&_dmd=2&_nkw=Buick+Riviera

Here's what's included in the order:



A few years ago I replaced my wife's interior door handles (Toyota Corolla) and found they broke again after a couple years. Aftermarket replacement parts are hit/miss, and I don't care to replace my Riv's handles again in 2 years, so decided to modify accordingly.

Both of my handles broke in the same location, like this (I realize this is different than some others'). Note how the arm broke right where the coring meets the solid portion. I believe the inside corners of the core creates stress risers, which contributes to the breaks:



The new aftermarkets eliminate the coring, so the solid arms should be stronger, but just in case I plan to add some strength.

The OEM pivot rods are crimped on each end. To remove, I used a vise to "un-crimp" one end:



Pulling out the rod with pliers:



Disassembled:



The handles needed paint. First used a scouring pad to rough up the plastic:



Then cleaned up:



Hit them with a few good coats of Rustolium plastic primer:



For paint, I dug up the bottle of slate green metallic lacquer from the body shop that painted my door a few years ago. ALWAYS ask for the extra paint when you get work done - you never know when you'll need it. Thinning the paint made it go a long way though the air brush:



After a few (thin) coats:



+ Duplicolor clear coat. I didn't paint the bezel, just used the OEM:



Now to strengthen the arm. I cut a small swatch of carbon fiber (normal weave) and sprayed one side with 3M Super 77 adhesive:



Then wrapped the swatch around the arm to create a splint in the area were the break occurred in the OEM handles:



I didn't photograph this part, but final step was to soak the carbon in 2-part, clear 5 min epoxy. Optional: I used a strip of plastic wrap to hold the splint as it cured. This makes for an incredibly strong arm that won't break. Understandably, the end of the arm near the pivot rod may fail - time will tell.

Here's the assembled handle ready for assembly:





NOTE: to use the new aftermarket handles with the OEM bezels, the holes on the handle arms must be enlarged slightly to fit the OEM rods. Just enlarge the holes with a drill bit - can't remember the exact size: .150" - .180" maybe.

They look pretty good installed on the car. Even if your paint job isn't perfect, the handles are a pretty forgiving detail. Hope this helps someone with their broken handle(s). In hindsight, wrapping with carbon could even be used to patch a broken handle. Skip the painting and reuse your old broken ones!

Nice work! I had mine break about 10 years ago. I bought the replacement from GM and I believe that little arm was made out of metal on the new one. I'm glad the passenger side handle held up enough until I got the drivers side replaced.

Passenger door won't open from inside or outside. No resistance on key cylinder. The "rocker" (for lack of better word) on the inside panel will not rotate all the way to the unlock position, either manually or via power lock. Can hear power lock actuator trying to do something when I hit the switch, but no love. Where in the world do I begin here?? considering dremeling out the outer handle, but surely there is an easier way?

Thanks

...try rolling down the window then unlocking door with a slimjim.

I had a friend with a '95 that ran into this problem. He had tried to force the door open from the inside when it had frozen shut, it ended up breaking the plastic door latch mechanism and would not open from outside or inside either.

I was able to get it open by catching the latch rod with a slimjim, as Albert mentioned.

Thanks, I will give that a shot. Passenger window works intermittently but I can usually coax it into rolling down. I'll try a wire hanger, and look into a slimjim if that doesn't cut it.

Once the door is open, remove the inside trim panel, then lube the mechanism.

You may find the outer door handle needs to be replaced.

You may find an issue with the door latch or door lock actuator.

Remove the interior door panel, then you can access the mechanism and fix the problem. It's really not that bad. Just take your time and don't force anything.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t317-write-up-interior-door-panel-removal

This was the cause of a strange problem I had with the Passenger side door handle of my 98 Riviera.  The door lock would jam locked on me.  When that happened, the lock would not move fully to the unlocked position, and I could not open the door from the inside or outside.  If I played with the lock for 5-10 minutes, I could move the lock and the door would open.  Everything would work perfectly until the next time.  I at first thought it was the door latch, and replaced it.  The problem persisted.  I then noticed the problem occurred only when I operated the exterior door handle when the door was locked, as you would when checking from the outside that the door was indeed locked.  I concluded that it had to be something to do with the door handle.  I purchased a replacement door handle and painted it.  I replaced the handle and the problem disappeared.  Afterward, I looked at the door handle more carefully.  Operating it, I could see the pivot for the lever that operated the latch to unlock the door, was not freely moving.  What was happening is it was getting stuck between the fully closed and fully open position of the handle itself.  You can see in the video as I operate the handle, the lever only returns halfway.  That in turn jams the locking mechanism of the latch.  I loosened the Phillip's head screw and lubricated the pivot with white lube.  That rendered it functional again.  Most of the time, these handles physically break, and that is why they are replaced.  This was a different problem, maybe less common, but if it happened to me, it probably happens to others.  Hope this helps someone else.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoeM8ynNxik&feature=youtu.be

Fixed the door handle,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYGmvqliBns

I replaced my presumed broken handle today. This car has had two replacements on each door. Put a third replacement on passenger side today but it wasn't the latch that'd gone. Neither good latch can push the rod down far enough. I think the plastic that holds it into place in the door is worn & too loose for the latch to push it far enough down.

Frustrating my door's still stuck from the outside but I'm happy both door latches ate the same color now! Ha.

You guys have about convinced me it's time to bite the bullet, get the breakey parts 3D scanned, and have permanent replacements 3D printed in steel (or aluminum).

How many parts in the handle need to be replaced with metal?

Rock Auto has a $10 replacement handle - Link

Would the breakey parts be identical to the original GM part? Can I disassemble the handle and get the parts I need out? Let's talk about this.

Changed my outside driver handle with the OEM handle of death @ $100! Very solid and strong. Feels like the passenger may break next!