Write-Up: Installing Boost Gauge

I think that should work. Maybe try testing the gauge with a shorter line under the hood, or hook up to an air compressor. Here's a link to an earlier page in the thread, showing how another member did it:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t189p105-write-up-installing-boost-gauge

turtleman wrote:

conveniently, theres a plugged port on the top that i am going to connect a vac. gauge i had from my last car to but i certainly do want to get a boost gauge. btw its a 97.

This reminds me, Where's the PCV valve?

This post is hilarious. Codith, you've come a long way, homie. Inspiring, really.

Charlie you can say that again lol. Check out my sweet bright-ass white wire just eye-soring up the engine bay which i'm pretty sure was for a set of fog lights I installed under the bumper that did almost nothing haha

Well, tomorrow (today technically) is homecoming. We all know what that means, sitting around for hours on end waiting for her to get ready. Normally, I would have nothing to do. But it just so happens that I have $20 in AutoZone credit and all the time in the world. It also just so happens that I may have broken the vacuum line under the snout when I changed the coupler, and it may or may not be held together with heat shrink. It's like one of those signs or something. I've got a toolkit, dremel, zip ties, and soldering iron within reach. Just as long as they have a cheapy gauge in stock...........

Posting as I work on this.

Here I used a drill press with a hole bit to enlargen the hole as needed. Fits like a glove.



Just test fitting everything. Gauge matches like perfectly. Looks awesome.



Chances are good that the black plastic piece will not want to stay in as tightly as stock. Feel free to use the adhesive of your choice here.



Tape off as much as you need to to mark where to cut the ducting. I gave myself plenty of room here.



Feel free to use more adhesive here. I accidentally broke off the tabs that hold the duct to the plastic piece. You also need to seal off the hole you made with something. I used more duct tape.





Stopping here for today. Waiting for assistance on running the power/vacuum lines. A helping hand is always nice on stuff like that. The gauge looks really crooked here but it's not. Looks awesome from the position I sit in.

looks nice. if i went that way id probly use the top duct since i cant aim it for crap lol

I can't aim the bottom one for crap. lol

Nice

So do any of you guys have a boost gauge installed, I just installed mine like 10 min ago. It's an glow shift one. I hooked up the vacuum line and everything done right but it goes to negative 15psi and when I punch it, it goes to 0psi, so do I need to adjust the needle? And when the needle is off and car is off it goes to 0psi.

My boost guage needle needs to be adusted one of my buddies said, anyone have a glow shift boost gauge?

The -15 is the gauge reading vacuum. At idle and at light cruise it should read vacuum. As load increases it should advance to zero and into + as boost is created. If it is getting to zero but not into positive, you either are not creating any boost or you may have tapped into the wrong vacuum line.

Your boost gauge is hooked up wrong or you aren't making any boost.
"I hooked up the vacuum line and everything done right but it goes to negative 15psi and when I punch it, it goes to 0psi, so do I need to adjust the needle? And when the needle is off and car is off it goes to 0psi."

If working and hooked correctly you will see the neg(vac), but under load you will see positive boost.

Also post pics of your boost gauge install. Check for BBV movement under the hood when blipping the throttle. Thats the black actuator arm on the SC on the front right when facing you. If you reach over to the TB and give it a solid rev, you should see the actuator extend.

I suspect the not displaying boost and "vtec" thing are seperate issues if you still see no boost under the "vtec" condition.

Got mine actually hooked up today (finally). We finished, turned the car on, and revved it. Saw no boost. We were both like "Awwwww F$#@". Then I suggested we go for a quick drive just to be sure. Took it easy to the highway, nothing. Got on the highway, gunned it, needle took off. Think I hit about 11-12 pounds on the shift. Couldn't tell for sure because it was dark and I was watching the road. 34 degrees out.

Mines on the aeroforce is displayed negative 19.21 but when I put my foot in her I got as high as 6.6 lbs of boost kickass

I didn't have an "L" fitting so I had to make a "T" work..... I want it done right..... Won't be there for long.



If you follow the line under the snout back it goes to that "T". One of the ports of it is plugged. Perfect for running a concealed line. Can take more pictures if wanted.

Alright, I was watching my gauge today and I was constantly getting 14 psi at the top of first. I seriously doubt that that is correct. Anyone have any explanation besides the gauge being off?

How much vacuum do you get at idle?

matt270avian wrote:

Alright, I was watching my gauge today and I was constantly getting 14 psi at the top of first. I seriously doubt that that is correct. Anyone have any explanation besides the gauge being off?

Based on what I see in your sig, that could easily be correct. You've dropped pulley sizes but I don't see anything increasing valve lift, so the air pressure can't get out of the intake resulting in a high amount of PSI in the manifold. If you put something increasing intake valve lift and or duration you'll lower that PSI a bit and improve airflow. The higher your PSI the more heat you are going to create as well.

J. Chris Davis wrote:

How much vacuum do you get at idle?

Not sure, the gauge only shows boost. That was almost a deal breaker but I decided to stick with it.

deekster_caddy wrote:

matt270avian wrote:

Alright, I was watching my gauge today and I was constantly getting 14 psi at the top of first. I seriously doubt that that is correct. Anyone have any explanation besides the gauge being off?

Based on what I see in your sig, that could easily be correct. You've dropped pulley sizes but I don't see anything increasing valve lift, so the air pressure can't get out of the intake resulting in a high amount of PSI in the manifold. If you put something increasing intake valve lift and or duration you'll lower that PSI a bit and improve airflow. The higher your PSI the more heat you are going to create as well.

Makes sense. I've noticed on the 90* days the gauge will go up to ~200* under really heavy driving (I have a 180* tstat).

Where is the best place to run the line through the firewall? Also, can I run the line right off that plugged port where the brake booster plugs into the intake? Otherwise I might T into the line that runs across the front to the fuel pressure regulator.

I had to drill a small hole in my firewall and put a grommet in to get all of my stuff fed into the engine bay. If you do this watch out for wires on the other side of where you drill. I have a T on the right side of the motor (firewall) where the line goes from under the supercharger snout and feeds back.

stydel311 wrote:

Where is the best place to run the line through the firewall?  Also, can I run the line right off that plugged port where the brake booster plugs into the intake? Otherwise I might T into the line that runs across the front to the fuel pressure regulator.

There's a big wire harness pass-through that's fairly easy to get into on the passenger side.

I tried to edit this pic with an arrow but it didn't work for some reason.. stupid photobucket.
anyway it's where all the wires are coming out of.
You remove two flat nuts and then take off the plastic cover. Inside, just remove the one lower foot panel on the bottom of the dash held on by two 7mm screws and you have access. You can add any wiring/hoses you want there without needing to drill anything or use additional grommets and stuff.

I was not aware of the pass through on the passenger side. Good call!

If you're going to the door vent with it, I tapped mine into the vacuum line that goes off the passenger side of the LIM, then ran it through the fender to the door harness, then through the door harness boot to the door itself.

Dang, the turtle has a clean engine bay and cradle/suspension for a car in Illinois!

Thanks for that tip, Cody! Ima run my wide band through there.

Update:

Here is what I found after removing the clip in plastic with tons of foam shield.

Looks like a plastic panel with 4 bolts and 2 wiring ports.

I can reach the other side of this port panel by peeling back the carpet on the passengers side.

Wondering what the best way is to sneak more wiring through there?