Write-Up: Installing Boost Gauge

Your boost gauge is hooked up wrong or you aren't making any boost.
"I hooked up the vacuum line and everything done right but it goes to negative 15psi and when I punch it, it goes to 0psi, so do I need to adjust the needle? And when the needle is off and car is off it goes to 0psi."

If working and hooked correctly you will see the neg(vac), but under load you will see positive boost.

Also post pics of your boost gauge install. Check for BBV movement under the hood when blipping the throttle. Thats the black actuator arm on the SC on the front right when facing you. If you reach over to the TB and give it a solid rev, you should see the actuator extend.

I suspect the not displaying boost and "vtec" thing are seperate issues if you still see no boost under the "vtec" condition.

Got mine actually hooked up today (finally). We finished, turned the car on, and revved it. Saw no boost. We were both like "Awwwww F$#@". Then I suggested we go for a quick drive just to be sure. Took it easy to the highway, nothing. Got on the highway, gunned it, needle took off. Think I hit about 11-12 pounds on the shift. Couldn't tell for sure because it was dark and I was watching the road. 34 degrees out.

Mines on the aeroforce is displayed negative 19.21 but when I put my foot in her I got as high as 6.6 lbs of boost kickass

I didn't have an "L" fitting so I had to make a "T" work..... I want it done right..... Won't be there for long.



If you follow the line under the snout back it goes to that "T". One of the ports of it is plugged. Perfect for running a concealed line. Can take more pictures if wanted.

Alright, I was watching my gauge today and I was constantly getting 14 psi at the top of first. I seriously doubt that that is correct. Anyone have any explanation besides the gauge being off?

How much vacuum do you get at idle?

matt270avian wrote:

Alright, I was watching my gauge today and I was constantly getting 14 psi at the top of first. I seriously doubt that that is correct. Anyone have any explanation besides the gauge being off?

Based on what I see in your sig, that could easily be correct. You've dropped pulley sizes but I don't see anything increasing valve lift, so the air pressure can't get out of the intake resulting in a high amount of PSI in the manifold. If you put something increasing intake valve lift and or duration you'll lower that PSI a bit and improve airflow. The higher your PSI the more heat you are going to create as well.

J. Chris Davis wrote:

How much vacuum do you get at idle?

Not sure, the gauge only shows boost. That was almost a deal breaker but I decided to stick with it.

deekster_caddy wrote:

matt270avian wrote:

Alright, I was watching my gauge today and I was constantly getting 14 psi at the top of first. I seriously doubt that that is correct. Anyone have any explanation besides the gauge being off?

Based on what I see in your sig, that could easily be correct. You've dropped pulley sizes but I don't see anything increasing valve lift, so the air pressure can't get out of the intake resulting in a high amount of PSI in the manifold. If you put something increasing intake valve lift and or duration you'll lower that PSI a bit and improve airflow. The higher your PSI the more heat you are going to create as well.

Makes sense. I've noticed on the 90* days the gauge will go up to ~200* under really heavy driving (I have a 180* tstat).

Where is the best place to run the line through the firewall? Also, can I run the line right off that plugged port where the brake booster plugs into the intake? Otherwise I might T into the line that runs across the front to the fuel pressure regulator.

I had to drill a small hole in my firewall and put a grommet in to get all of my stuff fed into the engine bay. If you do this watch out for wires on the other side of where you drill. I have a T on the right side of the motor (firewall) where the line goes from under the supercharger snout and feeds back.

stydel311 wrote:

Where is the best place to run the line through the firewall?  Also, can I run the line right off that plugged port where the brake booster plugs into the intake? Otherwise I might T into the line that runs across the front to the fuel pressure regulator.

There's a big wire harness pass-through that's fairly easy to get into on the passenger side.

I tried to edit this pic with an arrow but it didn't work for some reason.. stupid photobucket.
anyway it's where all the wires are coming out of.
You remove two flat nuts and then take off the plastic cover. Inside, just remove the one lower foot panel on the bottom of the dash held on by two 7mm screws and you have access. You can add any wiring/hoses you want there without needing to drill anything or use additional grommets and stuff.

I was not aware of the pass through on the passenger side. Good call!

If you're going to the door vent with it, I tapped mine into the vacuum line that goes off the passenger side of the LIM, then ran it through the fender to the door harness, then through the door harness boot to the door itself.

Dang, the turtle has a clean engine bay and cradle/suspension for a car in Illinois!

Thanks for that tip, Cody! Ima run my wide band through there.

Update:

Here is what I found after removing the clip in plastic with tons of foam shield.

Looks like a plastic panel with 4 bolts and 2 wiring ports.

I can reach the other side of this port panel by peeling back the carpet on the passengers side.

Wondering what the best way is to sneak more wiring through there?

May be covered in here, but has anyone spliced into the cluster dimmer wire so their boost gauge lights up the same as the rest of the gauges? I feel like it shouldn't be hard, I just need to know what wire to splice into.

I've read some control dim by varying resistance to ground, and some by varying voltage on positive side.

If anyone could help me out that would be greatly appreciated!

I spliced mine into the lights in the door panel since I put my gauge in the vent that's right next to them. It lights up and dims with the LEDs that are on when the headlights are on.

Would you say the level of illumination is close to that of the dash? Does it dim with the dash when you spin the dimmer knob thing?

It dims with it, and it's not noticeably brighter or dimmer than the rest of the lights.

depending where you are locating the gauge the ash tray light may be a good option to tap into.

Jbird

Good call! I forgot all those things dim too.

Why do you need boost gauge if you are installing tablet and running torque? Kind of redundant?

I've had it laying around for a while, and I think it looks kind of cool. And I'm kind of curious to see what torque reads vs what the gauge reads.

I'd take ACTUAL boost over "calculated" any day....

Abaddon wrote:

I'd take ACTUAL boost over "calculated" any day....

Kinda my thought. How do scan gauges and stuff even calculate boost?