Write-Up: Lower Intake Manifold (LIM) Gaskets

IIRC the Orings come with the SC gasket anyway. And you won't need to do the TB gasket unless you are removing the TB, which you don't need to do for this job. I have never separated the TB from the blower.

http://www.brianesser.com/main/index.php?option=com_hwdvideoshare&task=viewvideo&Itemid=86&video_id=2

Eh, chances are you won't need a TB gasket. It's just a giant rubber o-ring. Only time they go bad is if they dry-rot and flatten out.

Make sure you, or he, has the GM gray Engine Sealant or equivalent for the 4 corners where the heads meet the block. Don't use anything else otherwise you'll be taking it apart again shortly thereafter.

And don't use one of those green "cookies" to clean the surfaces with, the ones that have "fingers". The residue they leave behind will destroy bearings and such. Make sure you, or he, use the reddish brown "scotch brite" cookies....they are safe.

No you shouldn't need o-rings if you plug the holes.

Permatex ultra black will work fine in those corners too. I second NOT using plain RTV there.

Thanks for the Tips on the Sealant and Scotch Brite.

Question why don't you use the yellow or green plastic 2" 3M Bristle Disc's ?
I can't remember which one is course and which one is finer, but I was under the impression that this was the exact thing they were made for, removing gasket material from Aluminum without removing any base material (aluminum).
Have seen these expensive little boogers used on a lot of gasket removal jobs instead of using the Red rol-lok discs.

because unlike rol-loc disks, they leave small particle residue behind that gets EVERYWHERE and will hurt the engines bearings. They are ok if you are cleaning gasket material off of parts that will be thoroughly washed down and cleaned properly.

OK, thanks for the heads up. I'll get a small box of the 2" red ones, as I am currently all out.
I think MSC has the 3M's on sale and I need to pick up a several other items from them.
There is a retail store about 30 min's from me.
And I like to stock up on shop supply's from them.
They always seem to have what I need in stock.

Rickw wrote:

Thanks for the Tips on the Sealant and Scotch Brite.

Question why don't you use the yellow or green plastic 2" 3M Bristle Disc's ?
I can't remember which one is course and which one is finer, but I was under the impression that this was the exact thing they were made for, removing gasket material from Aluminum without removing any base material (aluminum).
Have seen these expensive little boogers used on a lot of gasket removal jobs instead of using the Red rol-lok discs.

FYI, yes, that's what those Bristle Discs were made for, but engine/bearing failures were occurring after repairs, so GM released a TSB to dealers telling us not to use them anymore because of the residue, like Brian has said.

Thank you all very much for the info.
I guess GM forgot to send me the memo.
Rick

So are the revised aluminum gaskets reusable?
I just did my LIM last November but i got a gen V and will be swapping out the LIM this coming fall.
Will i need to drop another $60 on those gaskets or can i keep what i got? I did use some RTV on one intake runner b/c of a low casting issue.

Thanks,
Matt

I don't think they are reusable. They just don't collapse over time like the plastic ones...

After having seen the aluminum gaskets, I have to admit it might just happen that they work, but it would really suck to have to do the job again because the gasket didn't hold.

Matthew,
If I were you I would budget for a new gasket set. And use the GM or equivalent sealant in each corner of the gaskets.
You mentioned you only used goop to fill a low spot on the LIM. I guess I'm assuming you didn't use any elsewhere.
You really should put a glob on each corner.

I used it at the corners too, but i had an odd low spot on on runner of the LIM that i wanted to make certain was sealed.

...guess i'm saving for a new gasket too.

O.K. I can't find the part # for a 1997 supercharged Riv. aluminum LIM gasket.Can you please give me the number??I found conflicting inf,and want to buy the right one the first time out.Thanks,Don

thats because i believe the aluminum LIM gaskets only came on the L26/L32s, try searching under an 04+ GP.

rock auto- felpro aluminum LIM gaskets- MS98014T

madrivage wrote:

O.K. I can't find the part # for a 1997 supercharged Riv. aluminum LIM gasket.Can you please give me the number??I found conflicting inf,and want to buy the right one the first time out.Thanks,Don

It's easy. Call the dealer. LIM set is like $75 or something. They have updated parts.

All part numbers needed are in the first post of this thread.

Thanks AA.I was doing a search online earlier,and I came up with three numbers.A couple with and without pin holes or something like that,and a non-supercharged gasket as well.I just wanted to be sure I got the right one.Thanks again.

I just looked at that first post, Aaron/Jason...

Do all our Riviera Series II L67 motors take "revised aluminium LIM gasket: gm p/n 89017825"?

The GM package I in front of me witha New GM LIM Gasket Kit is P/N 89017825.
Was purchased last week or so and is are composite Aluminum gaskets.

Rickw wrote:

The GM package I have in front of me with a New GM LIM Gasket Kit is P/N 89017825. Was purchased in the last week or so and are composite Aluminum gaskets.

So in a word, "yes"...

JK!

But seriously folks, when you say "composite aluminum", does that mean that the main frame is still plastic, but they put aluminum around the ports?

The main frame of the gasket is Aluminum with different color rubber around the ports.

The gasket itself is very thick yet light, so I assume it a sandwich of layers inside the aluminum sheathing that cant be seen.

Or it is just a very light and thick, about 3/16", type of aluminum.

Rickw wrote:

The main frame of the gasket is Aluminum with different color rubber around the ports.

The gasket itself is very thick yet light, so I assume it a sandwich of layers inside the aluminum sheathing that cant be seen.

Or it is just a very light and thick, about 3/16", type of aluminum.

Cool, thank you... (+)

Well, I think my LIM gasket is leaking. The pool of coolant is on the passenger side. At first I thought it was the water pump but it’s not making any noise and the coolant seems to be snaking its way down. I’ve seen this write-up. from the GTP forums and I have a few questions…
If the two aluminum gaskets in this pic are the LIM gaskets. What are the orange gaskets called?


Also is the UIM gasket the gasket between the Supercharger and the LIM?

- The P/N #s I need are …

revised aluminum LIM gasket: gm p/n 89017825
supercharger gasket: gm p/n 24503911
Anything else? What about that plastic elbow, should I have one on hand? P/N#?

- Apparently I will need vacuum lines when I inevitably break the original ones?

- To remove fuel pressure from the fuel rail, I should remove fuel pump fuse, release pressure by unscrewing valve in fuel rail and de-pressing valve?
- How do the fuel injectors come off? Does that spring just lift up then pull on the injector? What about the O-ring, how do you know you create a proper seal when you re-install the injector?

Bryan, the author of the GTP write-up wrote…

“… I spent most of my time scratching my head trying to figure out why the manifold wouldn't budge, because I forgot one bolt... Then I spent another hour or so running around looking for a replacement vacuum fitting that I broke.

I also spent another hour staring at the throttle body, trying to figure out if I'm supposed to remove the S/C with or without the throttle body. (Service manual was a little vague).... Needless to say, I decided to remove the S/C with the throttle body still attached because it seemed simpler. “

- Are these bolts really that hard to find?
- I heard that you don’t have to remove the throttle body?

“I also spent another hour struggling with the EGR intake pipe. Service manual said to remove it from the manifold. I tried that, but the bolt was way too tight, and there was no clearance for my socket wrench, so I had to use my flare wrench, but I almost stripped the bolt, so I gave up after a while, and just loosened the bolt from the EGR side. Worked just as well...”

Is this actually something that anyone can do? There seems to be a lot of steps involved. I mean I have replaced Intake Manifolds before, but they weren’t laced with vacuum lines and covered with fuel rails, and electrical connections. I have read the thread and the write-up. Sorry if anything is redundant but what I am looking for from you guys is "be careful of..." or make sure you don't...."

I've been considering doing this job too...

-I believe the rubber orange gaskets are called "valley seals".

-I agree, there is no reason to separate the TB from the S/C.

-Yes, it would be a good idea to replace that plastic coolant elbow.

-With the key off and/or the negative cable disconnected, you just have to release fuel pressure from the Schrader valve in the injector manifold.

-The GM kit comes with gaskets and valley seals, and possibly a tube of non-RTV sealant for the ends of the valley seals, while the Fel-Pro kits I've seen come with all that plus injector O-rings, and other gaskets/seals you may not even need - like the thermostat gasket that is superfluous with the rubber ring, the O-rings that may/may not be necessary for the back of the alternator bracket, the elbow O-rings, etc.

-I don't think it's necessary to remove the TB, I'm pretty sure I read recently that someone who has had their manifold off more than once has never removed the throttle bodyl...

-EDIT: Per 98Riv, the advice about not breaking the vacuum Tee on the front of the manifold (passenger side, near coolant elbow) is to remove other lines from the Tee, but not to remove the Tee from the manifold.

-You have to remove the rear plug wires from the coils, but they are numbered...

-While everything is out of the way, it would also be a good time to replace the rocker-cover gaskets as well.

I imagine a touch of motor oil is all the new injector O-rings need to seat properly.