Spinning Wheels

is there any way to 'tighten' the differential or 'guarantee' that both front wheels are spinning?

LSD

AA wrote:

LSD

*smacks forehead* I'm retarded.. completely overlooked that. Any experience with those? how to they affect driveability?

Once upon a time, a certain vendor created an LSD for our transaxle. They were about $500 + install, and a few people bought them. Soon it was determined the units were semi-defective, so they made a 2nd gen, and a 3rd gen... I think they're on a 4th gen now. Meanwhile, ZZP is turning 9s on a stock diff...

Some swear the LSD is great for better launching. I think I might get one if it were half the price.

thanks for breaking this off. it poses a pretty good question.

That's interesting info about those LSDs being offered. I agree, I'd hate to spend that much money (plus the cost of installing it) only for it to tear up on me.

Getting a solid balance of wheel spin/bite down to the road would certainly improve launch. Any time one wheel is spinning up, the other is barely pulling at all. Sure the traction control is kicking in, but we all know what TC does to ETs. if you could get both tires pulling equally as hard and learn how to feather the throttle with TC off, you're getting a good solid pull.

I've found the wheels to spin pretty evenly as long as the road surface is even and consistent. At the track, my car launches pretty straight.

I've got a C-YA Racing LSD and haven't had any problems yet. It's great on the street. I haven't done any burnouts or track passes yet, but when it warms up and I get some money to get there I'll let you know how I really feel about it.

how much work was it to install?

I had it installed when my engine and tranny were being rebuilt, so I honestly have no idea, sorry.

Actually there are a few available options.

GMPP offers a diff. I hear it is around $3k
INTENSE offers one $4-500
Engineering Performance offers one.. price unknown.
Quaiffe used to offer one at around $1500

I have expereience with the INTENSE one, it is widely used and in it's current generation very robust. Over the course of new generations etc, INTENSE has had great upgrade pricing/trade ins etc. Their diffs also have a lifetime warranty and are suggested to be sent in about every 30k if driven hard for refreshing.

Install is easy overall once you get past the newness of nevery having been there before. Basics are pull the passenger side tire and axle then remove the cover off the end of the trans. The diff is right behind it.

My opinion is that I like having an LSD much better than not having one. The torque steer is reduced greatly and the car hooks up much better. The various parts used in the diff are upgraded. My understanding is the stock diff at my mod level is good for 5-10 track passes before you need to worry about a pin breaking.

Now with all that said, I have had two fail. INTENSE is working closely with me to solve this quandry. There are many others with much more power that are having no troubles with their diffs.

that doesn't sound like a very difficult install at all (given the right space and tools... nothing mucks up a job worse than not having the right space and/or tools).

wow.. 5/10 passes, huh? Yikes.

Now, when your LSDs failed, did it render your car undriveable or just a freespinning diff?

With my current set-up, I have about 20 official 1/4 mile passes + an estimated 150-200 "street" 1/4 mile passes on my original diff. It was checked out when the trans was rebuilt. Appears to be fine.

I do like the benefit of LSD for throttle out of a sharp turn, but I don't buy that they make you launch any better, nor improve durability much if at all. With all the failures reported, and the ZZP car running 8-9 secs in the 1/4 on a stock diff. That car must be making 600-700 hp.

Aaron,

The big difference comes with running slicks. On an open diff the average 3800 will spin one wheel. Thus you need an LSD to launch hard pulling both front wheels.

Then there comes a point where you are making enough power to spin both wheels without an LSD. At that point you can go back to the stock diff which is again sufficient if you add some extra oiling (zzp diff oiler) to it.

You'll blow out the stock diff doing high speed one-wheel burnouts. Once your front right gets hot and sticky, the front left would start to spin... then when both tires get hot everything is okay again.

You don't think it's possible to spin both slicks in the water box? I can spin both radials on dry pavement.

I know I only spin the right front...

Same here . In my burnout video only the right tire did all the work.

hmmm... mine has always left 2 black strips....

I think if you really give it some gas, they should both break loose. If not, I agree it's not a good thing to spin only one wheel.

i've never done a 1 wheel burn out, provided both wheels were on the same type surface. now out today in the rain, too much throttle and i'm sitting still at the light until one tire grabs dry pavement, but thats not b/c the other isnt trying to catch up. just a difference in oil/water on the right/left side of the road AFAIK.
im my video both tires were spinning equally, granted i was moving and did not sit and heat them up in one spot, but i dont think i could even get just one wheel to move and keep the other one still unles i had them all the way cocked.

yeah my car also usually does 2 wheel burnouts unless the wheels are turned significantly or on a uneven/slick surface...the advantage to aftmkt differentials i think would be in the gear ratio rather than the limited slipping... though gear ratio doesnt really matter as much when you factor in the torque curve of a heavily modded series II. i think money can be better spent for more results....however if the differential did break i'd go with an aftermarket one.

Unfortunately you don't change gear ratio when changing this differential. The gear ratio is changed by the main side chain/gears.

oh... interesting...learn something new every day.