Write-Up: HVAC Assembly

Look what I found in module #3 -



A split gear, as predicted.  

If plastic replacements are available online, I'll grab a few and replace it.  It lasted 22 years, that's not bad.


edit -

It's this one isn't it? - Link

A little high for what it is!

Here's an even more expensive one that may be the best option -

Link

Quote :

This item comes with a full LIFETIME WARRANTY
Made from virgin polymer which is self lubricating - no need for extra messy grease
CNC machined from solid stock - no small air inclusions as in other 3d printed designs nor cast original gear
Custom design which does not rely on "press" fit
Simple replacement - slide old broken brittle gear off and slide new solid gear on
100% Made in Michigan USA! - both material and finished product!
The factory gearbox doesn't last as the factory gear is made from a brittle material which cracks rendering the gear useless. The cracked gear just spins on its shaft.
This constant spinning creates the "clicking" noise from the factory gearbox as the open or closed status is "searched" for.
Our design is CNC machined for exact fit without any chance of cracking.
When the gear is replaced on the stock shaft there is no slipping and no more annoying clicking sound.

Replacement gearboxes are cheap but you will just need to replace the gear again and again.

This gear is a simple solution to a very common and yet very annoying problem for a PERMANENT solution!

I'm giving that one a try.

albertj wrote:

grounded the positive terminal for about a minute

How did you ground it? You took the positive cable off the battery and let it sit on the floor pan?

Jack the R wrote:

albertj wrote:

grounded the positive terminal for about a minute

How did you ground it?  You took the positive cable off the battery and let it sit on the floor pan?

I disconnect the positive terminal then touch the positive cable to a nearby ground (I think the seat belt bolt). Pretty much all the electronics reset - the radio et cetera.

In the category, "If in Doubt, Reboot", I have fully functional HVAC.

I had cold only on the driver's side but everything else worked as it should. With the HVAC set to "off" (and ignition off), I pulled #7 and #9 fuses for for a couple minutes, re-installed them, then started the car. Success! Well, for about two minutes and then only heat on the driver's side. But things had changed so I was encouraged.

Turned the system off, turned the engine off and pulled the fuses again for about (40) minutes. Re-installed the fuses and turned the ignition on but did not start the car. Let it sit for about (3) minutes. Turned the ignition off, waited about (20) seconds and started the car. Turned the system on and all good! Ran it up and down in all modes for several minutes, shut the car off and re-started and all is working.

I can't say this was the perfect sequence of events but it worked without having to pull the dash apart and pretend to be a contortionist. Incidentally, the car sits for long periods and the battery drains. I know, I know, tender. Apparently when the voltage dropped, it confused the system. But we're back to functional. Perhaps this will help someone. You all have certainly helped me!

KenBluder wrote:

In the category, "If in Doubt, Reboot", I have fully functional HVAC.

I had cold only on the driver's side but everything else worked as it should. With the HVAC set to "off" (and ignition off), I pulled #7 and #9 fuses for for a couple minutes, re-installed them, then started the car. Success! Well, for about two minutes and then only heat on the driver's side. But things had changed so I was encouraged.

Turned the system off, turned the engine off and pulled the fuses again for about (40) minutes. Re-installed the fuses and turned the ignition on but did not start the car. Let it sit for about (3) minutes. Turned the ignition off, waited about (20) seconds and started the car. Turned the system on and all good! Ran it up and down in all modes for several minutes, shut the car off and re-started and all is working.

I can't say this was the perfect sequence of events but it worked without having to pull the dash apart and pretend to be a contortionist. Incidentally, the car sits for long periods and the battery drains. I know, I know, tender. Apparently when the voltage dropped, it confused the system. But we're back to functional. Perhaps this will help someone. You all have certainly helped me!

on a warm spring day check your refrigerant charge and make sure it's adequate...

albertj wrote:

KenBluder wrote:

In the category, "If in Doubt, Reboot", I have fully functional HVAC.

I had cold only on the driver's side but everything else worked as it should. With the HVAC set to "off" (and ignition off), I pulled #7 and #9 fuses for for a couple minutes, re-installed them, then started the car. Success! Well, for about two minutes and then only heat on the driver's side. But things had changed so I was encouraged.

Turned the system off, turned the engine off and pulled the fuses again for about (40) minutes. Re-installed the fuses and turned the ignition on but did not start the car. Let it sit for about (3) minutes. Turned the ignition off, waited about (20) seconds and started the car. Turned the system on and all good! Ran it up and down in all modes for several minutes, shut the car off and re-started and all is working.

I can't say this was the perfect sequence of events but it worked without having to pull the dash apart and pretend to be a contortionist. Incidentally, the car sits for long periods and the battery drains. I know, I know, tender. Apparently when the voltage dropped, it confused the system. But we're back to functional. Perhaps this will help someone. You all have certainly helped me!

on a warm spring day check your refrigerant charge and make sure it's adequate...

Albert - plenty of cold air in the summer! It was definitely a "confused" actuator.