Write-Up: Hockey Puck & Casting Front/Side Motor Mounts

I figured after idling for a few minutes, my rockers were working fine. Called Ed Morad and he advised no break in, so I beat on them hard 10 mins after that. Continued beating on them all week! Over 80k miles on the infamous INTENSE Gen IIIs so far...

AA wrote:

Over 80k miles on the infamous INTENSE Gen IIIs so far...

me too!

TTT for an update? i know your trans just died, but how was the drive between march 9th and now? lots of vibration? harder shifts?

thats really clever. ill have to suggest that to my stepdad.

I made a revision to the mount .

Vibration. I noticed a little at idle but not much.

That's hilarious.

IBx1 wrote:

That's hilarious.

Whats hilarious?


I'm no artisrt but I can't take a pic inside the subframe.

If anyone wants to do this mod, I have the proper Bonnie bracket that I am not using. Brand new from GM. PM me if interested.

It's hilarious that we're using something like hockey pucks around something as important in our cars as the engine itself!

I've seen worse .

those pucks still holding up?

I recently spent $600.00 on two new OEM Trans mounts. Just for the parts, I still had to install. Wish I new about this sight before.

I just got oldsman's bracket and made mine today. For the most part, I followed the same motions. There are a couple little things I did differently.

First off, here's the old mount...





From the bottom with front plastic cover off



both mounts



both mounts again



My basic puck arrangement.. The above two writeups have 3 pucks and a number of spacers. I originally tried that out and it seemed way too short. The motor didnt even touch it, much less rest in a centered position. My spacers or washers are clearly thinner than the ones oldsman used. I didn't want a bunch of spacers at the top anyway so I basically cut another puck in half and added it. I still put a spacer between each puck and only one at the top. With this, I got the sitting hight the same as with the original mount.





You can see, in these pictures I went with oldsman's revised idea for the mounting to the subframe. Realistically, this is the only way I could have done it. Mounting the bolt at the bottem section of the beam would require 3 holes to be aligned pretty much perfectly. Additionally, that bolt head or nut would be sticking out of the subframe which would techincally reduce ground clearance. As shown in oldsman's drawing, the bottom of the subframe is definitely an angle which also creates some awkwardness. Unlike oldsman, however, I didn't drill that bottom section to a bigger size because I didnt have a bit that large (nearly an inch if not more i'd say) that could drill steel. I used a dremel and cut out a square hole. I reckon either way works just as well.



That's the puck mount assembled and ready to be tightened





As you can see, the most notable difference with mine is that I added 2 pucked above the mount bracket to theoretically counter-dampen. Since this is basically a solid mount, I doubt it will make much difference but I just didn't like the idea of having the downward movement dampend and the upward movement void. To do it this way, a 10" long 1/2" bolt worked for me. I have a washer and lock washer at the head of the bolt on the bottem and a nylon-type lock nut at the top.





That's a quick demo video of the motor not moving. At a 650rpm warm cammed idle, it's completely motionless. If you rev it pretty good, it will budge just a bit. Unfortunately, I didn't make a before video like this so you'll have to take my word for it there. It moved all over the place when shifting through the gears and even when reving it.

Codith,
What are going to do with the old mount, I'd like to try the polyurethane trick on it if your willing to give it up yet.
Rick

Rickw wrote:

Codith,
What are going to do with the old mount, I'd like to try the polyurethane trick on it if your willing to give it up yet.
Rick

I'm actually probably going to do that myself, Rick. Gotta keep it.

so what's the vibration like in the cabin after this? any other downsides?

I've only driven the car about 5 miles since I finished but so far I can hardly tell the difference, vibration-wise. Downsides I guess I'll have to get back to you on. I enjoy not getting up to 15* of KR while cruising down my residential streets now though, I'll tell you that!

I'll report back in the future about how it holds up and whatnot. The car could pretty much be driven without that mount at all so I'm not going to sweat over it too much.

Nicely done! Good photos and nice drawing too! I'll be looking into this next summer for sure!

After an average day of mixed driving about 50-60mi, I honestly cannot tell the difference at all, as far as vibration. Good mod!

What is the mount actually off of. I saw in the first post he mentioned 00 Bonneville. Does anyone know what the year range might be and are there other cars that would fit/work.
I'd like to find used junk at the junkyard hopefully for cheap and do this mod. I can't stand the fore and aft rocking of the whole drive train during shifts, and I have new OEM mounts, they are just too rubbery (if that's a word)

so i was doing some research on the hardness of the urethanes mcmaster sells and they say it is good for -40 to 180 deg. eric, have you had any problems with your mounts failing or melting?
i also saw (on a civic forum, so it doesnt hold much credit) you can use 3m window caulk (black stuff) to fill in cracks and holes in mounts and it hardens like shore 60A. anyoe know any truth to it? it's $13 a tube.

I haven't had any melting or freezing issues with my mounts. the only issue was with the P mount. I used a round tube thru the middle wich augered out the poly a bit. I am going to replace with a larger square bar and drill the hole for the pmount bolt.

There are some people that have used JBWeld to fill the gaps or holes in motor mounts to firm them up. I have not tried this but it seems to be common practice.

So, with the square center bar design, if you were to make and sell a set, how much would we be looking at? Would the stiffness desired affect the price? My 97 has 125K on it now, so I am thinking proactively about keeping it at its best.

Can't WAIT to do this

BUh BYE 1-2 2-3 shift KR...

I would like to know more about the JB Weld. That could be done on the front Tranny mount without taking it off I suspect.









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