Write-Up: Hockey Puck & Casting Front/Side Motor Mounts

Where can i buy one of these brackets online?

Did a quick checkup on this today and it still looks good. I saw this http://www.kmjent.com/cart/product.php?productid=1008&cat=17991067&page=1 at work a few days ago and thought it would be nice to use that thick washer instead of the usual flat washer.



Thats the old one on the left and the new on on the right. You can see how the old one deformed a bit. I don't think it was causing a problem but I'd rather have the dampening material deflecting, not the hardware.

On another note, I just noticed today that my XS headers not only get in the way a bit of getting to this mount but sit pretty damn close to it, in my case. I do have the two pucks above the bracket and I don't remember the length of the bolt but it's probably not more than a half inch away from the headers, while tightened. There are various ways to deal with that concern if you come across it but just letting it be known. It's still pretty easy to get to it and remove it if need be but the initial install would have to be done with the front header off if you already have headers on.

It looks like you closed off the access to the bolt from the bottom (the square hole you cut.... if so how'd you do that, or is it just that from that angle I a seeing the inside of the subframe?

Oh yeah, one more question. Why the washers between the pucks?

#1BearsFan wrote:

It looks like you closed off the access to the bolt from the bottom (the square hole you cut.... if so how'd you do that, or is it just that from that angle I a seeing the inside of the subframe?

The picture of where you're looking at the head of the bolt in place, you're looking right inside the subframe, through the square access hole. I have not covered it up with anything.

I just put one washer between the pucks as an alternative to putting all those washers together at the top. They just add to the thickness to get the exact height.

deep wall socket COugh cough ^^^^^^

turtleman wrote:

On another note, I just noticed today that my XS headers not only get in the way a bit of getting to this mount but sit pretty damn close to it, in my case. I do have the two pucks above the bracket and I don't remember the length of the bolt but it's probably not more than a half inch away from the headers, while tightened. There are various ways to deal with that concern if you come across it but just letting it be known. It's still pretty easy to get to it and remove it if need be but the initial install would have to be done with the front header off if you already have headers on.

While this topic is open;
Why do you feel the header will have to be removed?
Can't everything be done under and around the header pipe?
I have the XS headers installed and have a bonny mount ready to do this mod.

Rickw wrote:

turtleman wrote:

On another note, I just noticed today that my XS headers not only get in the way a bit of getting to this mount but sit pretty damn close to it, in my case. I do have the two pucks above the bracket and I don't remember the length of the bolt but it's probably not more than a half inch away from the headers, while tightened. There are various ways to deal with that concern if you come across it but just letting it be known. It's still pretty easy to get to it and remove it if need be but the initial install would have to be done with the front header off if you already have headers on.

While this topic is open;
Why do you feel the header will have to be removed?
Can't everything be done under and around the header pipe?
I have the XS headers installed and have a bonny mount ready to do this mod.

Everything could be done around it except for drilling the hole into the subframe. There's no other way I know of to do that besides installing the bonne bracket, setting the motor to where it will be and drilling the hole from the top using the bracket itsself as a guide, which cannot be done if there's a header pipe directly over it.

This is not what I did so I don't know if it would work without looking at it again but you might be able to mount and position the bracket and then use the bracket as a guide to mark the hole with a marker and then remove the bracket and see if you can work a drill in there somehow. It might be possible to use a very small bit and drill where you marked from and angle and then finish it with the large bit from the bottom. I don't know how possible any of that is but I'm just thinking out loud here.

I didn't think about step one, drilling the hole. That makes sense now.

eric do you still have those 85B hardness mounts?? willing to sell?

bill- it would be just as easy to make your own. I have no plans on mass producing them.

samuel- google "stiffer motor mounts" and you should come up with several results that show how they used JB Weld (or some sort of epoxy)

travis- I just tossed those mounts. They were harder than concrete. If you were thinking about a solid mount, I would suggest using steel. Less brittle,

Guess this is the place for this??? Don't mean to steal any glory. Love those poly-filled mounts btw! Good write-up

I used to 3M Window weld method. It gave me back lots of lost torque with minimal engine vibration. Here are a few pics of the finished product.....mind you this is #2, as the "prototype" is still in the car, 2 years now and still taking a beating!




I went all the way to the edges of the mount with the filler to get as much coverage as possible....


I went to the boneyard and got a blown out mount for $10. As long as the center piece is there your ok. I made a "cap" for one side of the mount and cut a hole for the center piece to fit. Just like the previous post, I used a "wax" so the stuff didn't stick. Before I filled it, I cleaned everything with a wire wheel and brake cleaner, as well as scuffed the old rubber with 40 grit sandpaper.
Applied 3M Single Step Primer, 08681, 125 mL to the ENTIRE inside of the mount....basically anywhere the new fill was going to touch, put the "cap" back on (with masking tape to hold in place), and filled the mount. I overfilled it and with a second "cap", applied pressure to smoosh the filler down to fill and release any air bubbles. It took like 3 weeks to fully cure though. I kept pokin it with mechanics wire until the end came out dry (like baking a cake). After all was done, trimmed all excess for appearance and viola, a urethane mount.

1.) What kind of "wax" are you using for a release agent.?

2.) And when you say you made a cap, are you talking about making a sheet metal end piece for each end that you can clamp together to allow it to cure.? Basically like a sandwich.?

3.) Does anyone have a Pic or P/n of this 3M Window Weld that is being used.?
Where are you buying it.? Is it available at Home Depot or Lowe's in a caulking tube or is it something different.?

you can get it at autozone/advance/napa
it is a white 3m tube that says window weld.
if you google 3m window weld you get a bunch of pictures of motor mounts btw.

i think i paid $18 for the tube.
for end caps i just used aluminum foil to keep the stuff from oozing out. it's not that runny but it will stain anything it gets on.

Thank you very much.
For some reason I have yet to see this stuff in the store's.
Obviously not asking for the right stuff or as I have been lately "Brain Dead"

One last question, what are you all using for "release Agent'

i didnt have any release agent. once it dries the foil i used just cam right off.
it's on the bottom shelf on the same isle that has adhesives, epoxy and stuff like that.

a release agent could be any paste wax rick. just put on a good amount. nothing will stick to that.

Thanks again Matthew,
I have a trashed mount that I want to gut and try this stuff and compare to the brand new mount that is in there rocking and rolling with the torque of the engine.
And within the next couple of months will be doing, at a minimum the Gen V and maybe some more stuff to increase torque if i can sell a few things around here to fund the additional work, like a cam, etc.

Mr.Riviera wrote:

you can get it at autozone/advance/napa
it is a white 3m tube that says window weld.
if you google 3m window weld you get a bunch of pictures of motor mounts btw.

i think i paid $18 for the tube.
for end caps i just used aluminum foil to keep the stuff from oozing out. it's not that runny but it will stain anything it gets on.

robotennis61 wrote:

a release agent could be any paste wax rick. just put on a good amount. nothing will stick to that.

Thanks for adding that for me and clarifying it for him guys.

I would have never looked this fix up if it was not for you guys!

My riv is in great shape, just turned 50,000 miles today but I have a beat up old kia I am trying to sell,mounts are more than trashed! Time for some experimenting!

Ed,
If a tube of this urethane is $18.00 and the KIA mounts are $20.00 New,
which is the easiest way to go.
The Riviera mounts are $300.00 each.
Only available from the OEM and no aftermarket sources that I've heard of yet, unless someone came along recently and started making them.
Just saying.....

Rick, you may be right about KIA mounts but heres the situation , I already own a tube of (nonreturnable) window urethane, unused from the reassembly of the riv and its not one mount on the KIA it is all the mounts, they are so bad I had to unbolt the airbox and let it float to keep the intake hose from pulling off the airflow meter.

Basically I am going to use this fix to see if something can be done
without removal, I have nothing to loose and nowhere to go except up.[/i]

Well, with that said - I can only agree.
Good Luck and keep looking up (even though it is a KIA) has to be worth a few dollars that can go toward the Riviera.

This will also get me some practice if I have to do it for real.

P.S. this KIA POS is barely worth the $500 I am going to get, the only thing this car has going for it is the cold A/C

It's worth more than that in July in your neighborhood.
I know i would pay whatever they wanted to repair my A/C when I lived down there and was too busy traveling with business than to work on my own car at the time.
Nobody touched my bikes, but I would pay to have the car worked on in the summertime. TOO friggin hot to be bent over the fender.