Write-Up: Installing SLP Exhaust Headers

^^^ Scott's going for the budget install. He didn't want to spend the extra cash on the SLP kit. Btw, how much does the install kit cost by itself?

The kit costs $89.99 from Intense and the dipstick tube was $17.99.
I was lucky and got my SLP headers and install kit almost new together with everything but the straight pipe that I put in the place of the cat convtr and resonator.

I put a (what i thought was an inexpensive) High Flow Cat on mine and then brought it down the road to be welded up just fine. That is headers, cat, extra bungs,tips and whatnot, done for for less than $100.00. I now can put in a Wideband when I'm ready, etc.
The Cat has a 3" hole all the way through it and satisfies my State Inspection requirements and the engine didn't need any immediate tuning because of it.
Got it from ZZP - Magnaflow for cheap.

Yeah the guy that I bought my headers from had the SLP hi-flo cat to but I didn't need to pass inspection here in Michigan so I skipped it to save a few dollars but have been thinking about adding one when I finish my exhaust system. Still trying to decide what to do out back for mufflers and tips.

Hey....looking at these headers.....since there are no flanges for the crossover pipe, just slip joints, I'm going to have to put this together like a puzzle....first the rear header, then the crossover, then the front header....which is nbd, but raises the concern of sealing. I'll assume that using a sh*tload of the copper rtv in the joints while installing will suffice, just having to wipe off the excess that squeezes out.....

....And I ordered 2 50' rolls of 2" wrap with ties for $33 off ebay. I'm hoping it gets here soon....the company is from Columbus Ohio, which is just south of here. I was going to get the 1" wrap, but for the price I'll deal with the 2".

Quote :

Hey....looking at these headers.....since there are no flanges for the crossover pipe, just slip joints, I'm going to have to put this together like a puzzle....first the rear header, then the crossover, then the front header....which is nbd, but raises the concern of sealing. I'll assume that using a sh*tload of the copper rtv in the joints while installing will suffice, just having to wipe off the excess that squeezes out.....

Yes, do them in that order, with RTV, just like in the write-up. You want to use a single bead of RTV on the outside of the inside pipe, but no need to use a lot. I had just a little squeeze out of the joints. This is another reason why you want to let it try before you run the engine, so a glob of wet silicone doesn't land on your O2 sensor!

with the SSAC headers he will need a lot of sealant and some good clamps. Devin and i put these on his other regal and never could get them to seal 100% at the front and rear crossover joints.

Is the fit that sloppy with the SSAC? Mine fit together super tight, sealed right up no problem.

YES!!! unless you some how fit them together perfectly.

Damn, thats not what I want to hear. I hate annoying ticks and leaks. That will drive me crazy.

Wonder if you can have flanges welded on to them?

eh, I'll get it. If I have to weld the damn things I will.
I just went and picked up a set of new gaskets for 'em. They are still graphite, but have the steel "fire rings" on all the ports. Dammit! I forgot to get new studs .....back to the store I go....

Edit: The gaskets I got won't work....they dont have the "extra" for the rear header - that extra tube on it. The gaskets they sent are ok, but I'm scared to even attempt to use them as all of you say they suck!

Ya know, for being a budget mod this is still gonna cost like $500 for all the stuff you need.....I'll post a grand total when it's finished.

When I took my stock mani's off to install the SLP's the factory gaskets were the same steel ones that came w/the headers and they were fine to re-use. The only reason that I changed them was because I had brand new ones otherwise they would have been fine to go back in with the new headers.

Well, according to the dealer, my car doesn't have manifold gaskets. So I guess I'll find out when I take the manifolds off....

I bet you have them!

I hope I have em.....

I'm beside myself....ordered the wrap yesterday, it arrived today...amazing. The seller is csrhybridcrx on Ebay. That's all they do is header wrap and what-not. It was $43 shipped - 2 rolls of 2" x 50' wrap with 8 8" and 4 14" stainless ties. Just wanted to give 'em a good rep in case anyone needs to order this stuff.

FYI - a 2" 50' roll at Murrays (O'Reilly) is $50......

I may have bought from the same Ebay seller when I got my header wrap IDK.
I got 2 - 50ft rolls of 2"wrap, all the stainless tye's and a can of silicone spray, all package together for about $50.00 delivered and got it quick also.
And like you said, one 50 ft roll locally is $50.00.

Do yourself a favor, take your time, make sure you soak and ring out the excess water and wrap as tite as you can, then let dry for at least a day or until dry.
Then buy a can of silicone header wrap spray from the auto parts store for about $10.00. and apply multiple thin coats. I know from experience, if you do it this way and get a good tight wrap and seal it with the spray you wil get many, many years out of it with out problems.
Unless you develop some kind of severe engine leak and allow oil to saturate them. That's the only thing I have seen other guys do and have caused premature failure of the fiberglass wrap.
A little drip here and there won't hurt it, but say a chronic valve cover leak and then ignore it for a while and the header wrap will fail.
I personally have never had it happen to me though.
I hate leaks, so they don't happen.

Damn so either way you cut it, its not a simple buy headers and slap them on.

I know a guy who knows a guy who does coatings in the area so I'll ask how much ceramic coating would run. If I get a deal I might still go with SSAC and coating.

You can get really cheap mild steel Chinese headers for as low as $250, but you pay for it in the end. I don't recommend anyone take that route.

SSAC with coating might be a little less than SLPs, but make sure the coating is ceramic, and is applied inside & out.

Def not interested in the cheapest crap possible. Like you said you will only have more headaches in the end.

I'll look into the the coating of the SSAC's and go from there. I'll make sure to mention inside and out coating.

VJD2 wrote:

Damn so either way you cut it, its not a simple buy headers and slap them on.

I know a guy who knows a guy who does coatings in the area so I'll ask how much ceramic coating would run. If I get a deal I might still go with SSAC and coating.

when you buy headers, the outlet is made for GP/Regals, and does not mate up to the Riv's cat flange. You'll need to have a custom exhaust shop finish the connection, but that will also account for the slight offset to the side, you really won't even notice it.

Ya I read that somewhere else just recently. I think in the exhaust thread. I was thinking of tackling it myself with my new welder. Not sure how I feel about it but I didn't do too bad with the exhaust on my old Impala I just made so why not?

I think you need TIG equipment to properly weld stainless.

AA wrote:

I think you need TIG equipment to properly weld stainless.

Frick! Yes you are right, I didn't think of that. I don't have one of those nor do I have experience with TIG. Oh well.

Yeah, you could teach a monkey how to weld iron/steel, but welding stainless or aluminum requires "human" skill.....

You can tack the pieces with your mig and get it to the welder (if he's close) to remove your tack's and finish weld it with Tig.
That won't be a problem.
Or drive it with wide open headers till you get where your going for finish work.
I don't know if your going to delete the Cat or not.
What i did was, I bought a High Flow 3" Magnaflow Cat from ZZP and had flanges welded on all joints so it is removable if I should chose to run without one or to replace a bad cat. Be very easy to make a flanged pipe out of steel and replace the Cat and install an O2 Sim.
I also bought an extra O2 bung and plug from them and installed in the pipe for a future wideband, if I chose.
Just some food for thought.