SES light just went on...

I changed my plugs and wires on Saturday, and changed my stock 3.8 s/c pulley to a 3.5. Everything was fine until this morning when I started the riv. The SES light came on. Everything feels and sounds fine....


any ideas?

First thing I'd do is recheck that all the wires are pushed on all the way, and on the correct plugs/coils. Doesn't the Aeroforce read codes? Need to know what code was thrown.

I haven't installed the Aeroforce yet...I was going to do that this weekend.

I'll recheck to make sure the boots are all the way on. I know the wires are correct because I replaced the wires one at a time as I installed the new plugs.

If I tell my wife the car has an SES light on now after I did these mods, shes going to cut my balls off...

You can get the codes read for free at most of the chain auto parts stores.

seems to happen frequently after plug changes. It's usually misfire from bad wires or not hooked up properly. I've also seen a few cases of cracked plugs...

I'm betting I didn't get some of those boot on in back all the way....

wouldn't you be able to hear or at least feel a missfire?

not necessarily, maybe only 1 is affected.

Okay...I temporarily hooked up the Aeroforce gauge....this thing is awesome!!! No misfires on all cylinders, but...

Its putting up code P0141
O2 sensor heater circuit malfuntion, Bank 1, Sensor 2

Now what does that mean?

It means you bumped/loosened the o2 sensor heater wire, or that coincidentally it just failed. I'd bet on the wire. There is a front and a back o2 sensor, just start at the exhaust manifolds aond work backwards, you will find a front one and a rear one. Check wires for breaks; check connectors for failure (cracking, dirt).

Albertj

could a spark plug wire crossing the O2 sensor harness trigger the code?

I doubt it would interfere. Albert is probably right about the loose wire.

About misfires, I have never picked up even a single one. I think your engine really has to miss bad before the PCM notices it.

Where is the bank 1 O2 sensor located? on the manifolds? is there a pic available?

Look over your rear valve cover and straight down to the manifold. That's sensor 1.

BTW, a plug wire touching the O2 sensor wiring will cause issues with hwo the engine runs etc.

BillBoost has a good point, the current of the signal from the o2 sensor is not real high, would be easy to induce a signal by crossing the wires.

I'd see that the plug wires are on good, make sure the o2 sensor wire is not broken, and make sure it is not crossed with a plug wire - then if you have the right tool, clear the codes.

Albertj

I've actually seen it cause the engine to stutter and act stupid. One of the first things I typically suggest if an engine is running poorly is double checking wires 4 and 6 to ensure they aren't touching.

If you guys had Bonnies, the second thing would be corrosion at the battery terminals

BillBoost37 wrote:

I've actually seen it cause the engine to stutter and act stupid. One of the first things I typically suggest if an engine is running poorly is double checking wires 4 and 6 to ensure they aren't touching.

If you guys had Bonnies, the second thing would be corrosion at the battery terminals

Damn it....
when I replaced my wires last week I rerouted 2, 4 & 6 through that hole in the back bracket that supports the engine cover....

Hang on.. (don't take this the wrong way, but I'm going to word it to make the point really clear to all)

You routed a high voltage conducting wire through a grounded metal bracket where it can rub and touch the grounded bracket?

it takes almost nothing for a good system to toss the spark right through the wire coating and arch on any metal of the engine. This is why we have so many wire loom pieces in the back of the engine. It's torture to properly replace the wires, but it can save you a lot of diagnostic time later.

BillBoost37 wrote:

You routed a high voltage conducting wire through a grounded metal bracket where it can rub and touch the grounded bracket?

Pffffffft....no.
I routed 3 high voltage conducting wires through a grounded metal bracket where it can rub and touch the grounded bracket....

I'll change it this weekend....


and speaking of wire loom...does anybody know where to get good wire loom? I bought some at Advanced Auto and it melted....

I use the basic split-loom you get at AZ. Works as well as any other. Now it melting... that's a different issue entirely. I don't know that any one type is more resistant than another on that issue. I'd look for the heat source and move it away...

the original spark plug wires had about a foot of wire loom on each end to protect it from the manifold heat. I replaced it with the cheap advanced auto parts loom and it melted...I think its made from a different material

...and by wire loom, I mean this stuff:

yeah, I use that stuff too. Moroso makes some boot protectors but they are big and pricey. More like if you have headers... Mine doesn't melt. What are you doing wrong??

I use the smallest stuff that will fit over the wires. I just cover the wires at the points where they cross with other wires or run near metal brackets. I still have my OEM wires and they are doing just fine... but they are all loomed up...

it didn't actually melt...it just got really hot and opened up (like a flower) 5 inches or so from the boots up....the wires were totally exposed....

that's about how far the moroso stuff will cover. I'll see if I can find it.

I've melted some before..Even the factory stuff will usually melt over the rear exhaust.

Chicken.. any luck on the issue?