Write Up: Transmission Fluid & Filter Change

I'm changing my fluid/filter every 25k miles now, and based on what I read at Jason's link, I'm glad I started doing it.

Thank you all for the timely, incisive and all encompassing posts and links. Not knowing the original owner of the car and having no way to know it's maintenance history, I guess I'm going to have to do a little research. I'll call the dealer to find where the transmission numbers might be and go from there on that end, After reading all the posts and linked threads, I have to say there seems to be a more compelling. argument for it than against it.

albertj, thank you for the time and effort put into your post and your "I suggest" summation. It gives me a good plan of attack.

EDIT: Looks like I know what to look for, now just need to figure out where to look for it.

http://www.gmtuners.com/gmtransinfo.htm
"GM FWD Torque Converters

GM uses the same type 4-digit ID method of identifying FWD torque converters as with the RWD units, however the digits have different meanings. All 125-C, 440-T4, 4T60, and 4T60-E transmissions use the same style torque converter, and they are interchangeable before 1996. 1996-up converters are built to be compatible with GM's PWM TCC apply strategy which means that you can use the newer converter on the older trans, but not the older converter on the newer trans.

1st Digit (application trans)

* F -- 125C, 440-T4, 4T60, 4T60-E (245mm)
* J -- 4T65-E HD (258mm)"

EDIT: I guess it won't be that hard to figure which transmission is in the car after all.

http://www.donneysaab.com/FDT/transIDgm440Eidpics.html#Cover

I did a transmission filter/fluid change on a 4T60E that had over 300,000k the only thing it did was make the tranny feel smoother. Considering the car was driven for another 100,000 after that and was sent for scrap with a working tranny I don't think anyone is going to have an issue. I was told by a family friend to change your transmission fluid and filter once a year and you will never have a problem. I believe this guy because of the crazy miles he gets out of his vehicles.

I just did mine last night. What a nightmare because the ZZP gasket I purchased a long while back didn't work.

http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_prix/products1.php?id=638&catid=103

Looking at the product description, I notice that they altered it to say only 1998+ cars now.

Well here's the skinny: Everything went smooth... It was almost scary how easy this was. And then it happened... realized the holes in the washers of the new gasket were too small to accommodate the bolts. So I did what any retarded DIY mechanic would. I dremeled them into larger holes to make room for the bolts. Worked like a charm even though it made a 20 min job into 2.5hrs. Oh well.

Fluid was dark. Bit of metallic (fine) on the magnet but it wasn't terrible. Hoping this change will make the trans happy for another 30,000 miles. Trans seems to shift more firm yet smooth now. Probably just in my head. hahaha

Do any of you know what the transmission pan bolts have to be torqued to?

dtrumbo wrote:

Do any of you know what the transmission pan bolts have to be torqued to?

IIRC it's very very low, something like 120 in-lbs or around 10 lb ft. Use a 1/4 drive ratchet if you don't have a small torque wrench so you don't overtighten. They are steel bolts into aluminum threads, very easy to strip.

So with a 1/4 in drive ratchet would i tighten them untill they felt snug or untill i couldnt move them without.putting my shoulder into it? I am very broke (daughters birthday) and i have the fluid to change it but not refill it ajd change it.

dtrumbo wrote:

So with a 1/4 in drive ratchet would i tighten them untill they felt snug or untill i couldnt move them without.putting my shoulder into it? I am very broke (daughters birthday) and i have the fluid to change it but not refill it ajd change it.

Snug them up. That's it. Do not put your shoulder into it.

Okay. Thanks

This write-up is great and can stand alone as clear instruction on how to do this, but visuals can't hurt. Here are a couple of videos I found. I wouldn't necessarliy do everything the way this guy does it, so heed Matthews advice in the write-up itself.
PART1

PART2

I am about to change my filter and fluid. I want to make sure of a couple of things. The filter on my 4t60e has a small stub on one end and it will be easy to find where and how to place it. How far do I hAVE to push it in, and how will I know when it is far enough?

First, put a little trans fluid around the outlet tube, then insert the filter snug.

Everyone will do this differently, but what I do is place a hydraulic jack on the ground under the trans with the filter inserted into the hole and in position. Place a thin block of wood on the jack pad and raise it up until it meets the filter. Now, GENTLY raise the jack and pay close attention to the filter going in - it should slid in very easily. You'll see when the filter is all the way in. STOP and release the jack. Rotate the filter into position if needed. Reinstall the pan.

PS - watching the videos above shows why you want to do this yourself. There's no way I'd let that guy touch my transmission!

AA wrote:

PS - watching the videos above shows why you want to do this yourself. There's no way I'd let that guy touch my transmission!

Right, the videos were ment purely as a visual reference to what Matthew describes, not as a step by step according to this guy. I would especially avoid taking out the seal the way he did.

I changed the fluid and filter in my car and my wifes (same transmission) and it seems to still be acting up. But it was leaking fluid at the pan because of the crappy cork gasket. So it needed that. I dont suspect the filter was clogged because there wasnt any fluid being held back when i pulled the filter out. Unlike my wifes car. My riv.keeps itself in the tork converter gear and the gears only engage when i am accelerating or going up a hill. When the transmission gets up to operating temperature it will swith to the next gear way too soon and the tork converter doesnt engage properly. ( the motor bogs down like the solenoid is stuck on when you come to a stop but it does ebentually engage and will not stall)

I believe the 1996 transmission uses a vacuum modulator. Check that. If you find any fluid on the vacuum side, the modulator is bad. Make sure the modulator has a leak free good vacuum supply.

I am approaching 70,000 miles. When should I service my transmission? Am I late?

As always, thank you!

That depends on the driving conditions. "easy" driving would include grandma driving the car in relatively flat areas with few or no hillbclimbs or towing and wouldnt require service for at keast 120,000 miles. Heavy and frequent hill climbs or towing, racing and such would require service at around 40,000-50,000 miles. You can do something called a drop test on your fluid to see what condition it is in. You just drop a single or couple drops on a paper towel and if it spreads really far, is black, or smells burnt (or all three) it probably needs a good service.

LARRY70GS wrote:

I believe the 1996 transmission uses a vacuum modulator. Check that. If you find any fluid on the vacuum side, the modulator is bad. Make sure the modulator has a leak free good vacuum supply.

i just changed the modulator but the T connector it goes into is a little worn out and slips off pretty easily. So that would make sense i will look into that. Thanks.

charlieRobinson wrote:

I am approaching 70,000 miles. When should I service my transmission? Am I late?

As always, thank you!

When I bought my Riviera, there was 86,000 on the odometer. I changed my fluid then. I found about a teaspoon of metallic muck stuck to the magnet in the pan. Cleaned it off and changed the fluid and filter. I have done that 3 times total, and the car now has 136,000 on it. In subsequent fluid changes, I found next to no metallic residue in the pan. Transmission has, and still does, shift mint. No, it is not too late unless you are having shifting problems, and/or the fluid is burnt.

I checked the t connector that the vacuum modulator goes into and it had a big split in it. I hope thqt fixes the shifting. I put electrical tape over it for now i will buy another connector when i get paid

My first fluid change came at 80k, then every 40k after until the rebuild at 151k. Now I change every 25k or once per year. That's obsessive, but I also know the transmission is the weak link, and I abuse mine a lot. Plus my car has high miles. The transmission is expensive to fix when it brakes, so the changing the fluid is a kind of insurance. For people who drive the car reasonably, I think every 50k is a fine.

Roger that, I will add it to my list of things to do!



List of things to do

What kind of fluid is everyone running? From the research I've done, it shouldn't much matter. I'm planning on using Super Tech Dexron VI for $4/qt as it comes from Warren Distribution, which holds a license.

I don't think it makes that much difference what fluid you use. Synthetic will withstand higher heat, but any name brand Dexron fluid will do the job. Changing it at regular intervals is what is important.

Hey guys, great thread. My transmission has been hesitating when shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. I read this thread and think I'm going to tackle it myself. Just wanted a quick response on what fluid / filter kit to get and from where. Does synthetic vs. non-synthetic matter as it does for oil in high millage cars? Autozone / Napa / Advanced Auto / Walmart are right down the street from me so if I could go there that would be best. I have a 95. Thanks.