Write Up: Transmission Fluid & Filter Change

I don't think buying a synthetic is worth it if you change it regularly. If it's going to go unchanged for longer periods, then I would opt for the synthetic. I think the cheapest you can find Dexron VI for is your best bet, since the fluid is all produced under strict guidelines.

My car sometimes hesitates 1-2 when it's cold, but it always goes away when warm.

Can anyone recommend what filter kit to get? Autozone/Napa/Advanced Autoparts? I found this one at AZ. Will it do? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Transmission-Filter-A-T/1995-Buick-Riviera/_/N-j1eduZ6o2e7?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=transmission+filter&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=15966_0_0_

Everyone is saying keep the factory reusable gasket too as the replacement ones that come with the kits leak. Thoughts?

Ive used that gasket.no problems. the secret in instaling a tranny gasket is to obey the torque specs.do not overtighten. the rubber ones are good.
the cork gaskets do get a little moist but hold up
If yours is a 95 ,I recomend changing the tranny modulator,if you havent allready. its probably on its way out.or gone.you just dont know it.

Cool thanks robotennis. Where is the transmission vacuum modulator located on my riv? Do you have a picture? Is it easy to replace?

do a search here for "vacum modulator".there are a bunch of pics.
the adjustable vac modulator costs under $15 at Vatozone

stupid easy remove/instal

I replaced the fluid and filter a few weeks ago, but when I reinstalled the oil pan I used the rubber gasket that came with the filter, I did apply RTV sealant between the oil pan and the gasket, installed the oil pan and tighten the bolts to 8 ft-lbs with a beam type torque wrench and poured 7qts of fluid back in.

So it was all right that day, but the day after it started to leak... So I had to drop the pan again and cleaned the oil pan removing all of the old RTV sealant from the pan and the gasket so I can reuse it as it was almost-new and this time I didn't use any type of sealant as it describes on the write-up Again it was Ok for that day and then it started to leak... in the same spot just right on the backside of the pan near the rack-n-pinion....

I'm no sure what I'm doing wrong the first time I used the black RTV sealant, but I've tried this 3 times already and it keeps leaking. actually when I bought the Riv it was initially leaking from the transmission oil pan and that's why I decided to change the fluid and filter (which I bought on rockauto.com)

Should I use a different type of sealant different torque specs???

no sealant.for the tranny pan. obey torque specs for the oil pan, allways.did you check the pan for warpage or damage?

First thing, the torque needed is about 13 lb-ft not 8, but your problem is probably more because you used the supplied rubber gasket - it's junk! What you want to do is reuse the old factory gasket without any sealant. If you don't still have the original, you can find one at a junk yard, or order a new one through mail.

Edit: pan screw torque is 9.5 lb-ft

my cork gasket works pretty good.

AA wrote:

First thing, the torque needed is about 13 lb-ft not 8, but your problem is probably more because you used the supplied rubber gasket - it's junk! What you want to do is reuse the old factory gasket without any sealant. If you don't still have the original, you can find one at a junk yard, or order a new one through mail.

Thanks, but I thought it was 8. I read on the 2nd page of this thread that it was 8 and that 13 it was too much (unless used on the factory gasket I think those use steel rings in the bolt holes, right?) so now I'm confused....??? can't find specs for the 4T60E oil pan bolts

But I do think that the supplied gasket was kinda crap, because at 8 ft-lbs it started to squeeze a lil bit, that's why I didn't tight the bolts anymore

Can I get a factory gasket out of rockauto.com??

Thank you.

Is this one the "factory gasket":FEL-PRO Part # TOS18697??

I can get this one for $5.96 + shipping.

robotennis61 wrote:

no sealant.for the tranny pan. obey torque specs for the oil pan, allways.did you check the pan for warpage or damage?

I did, but the pan is O.K. no warpage or damage at all.

Sorry, I gave the wrong info. The correct spec is 13 newton-meters (9.59 lb-ft, or 115 lb-in). I always seem to forget that!

Try checking the torque again. Maybe the rubber gasket was compressed, loosening the screws?

Oh ok! thanks Lol

AA wrote:

Try checking the torque again. Maybe the rubber gasket was compressed, loosening the screws?

Hmmm.... well I actually did the 3rd time on Sunday without sealant and tighten the bolts at 8 ft-lbs, and then I took it for a test drive to warm up the transmission to see if it's leaking, then came back and went under the car, I saw fluid trying to come out and then I re-torque them cuz some bolts where a lil bit under-torque (it's kinda hard to see trough a beam type torque wrench under the car as I have to move while I turn the wrench to not loose track of the "gauge") so the rubber started to squeeze then I stopped.

Would I be safe if I tight the bolts to 10 ft-lbs? I mean I know it's 9.56 but through the torque wrench I have will be hard lol.

10 or 11 should be okay. I snapped a couple screws once using 13, so be careful.

I have a new pan gasket I bought for my '98, then didn't use. I still have it, new in GM plastic. It's the hard rubber with metal inserts where each screw goes through kind. If you discarded your OE one let me know and we'll work something out. If you still have the OE gasket clean it off and put it in there.

The thin rubber gaskets are not worth jack. (Jack, no offense! )

ACDELCO Part # 24204624

Is this the one I need?? do you know if this is the one for the 4T60E?? because mine has 10mm bolts???

Its $30.79 + shipping

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=430047

rk0ehn wrote:

rk0ehn wrote:

Is this one the "factory gasket":FEL-PRO Part # TOS18697??

I can get this one for $5.96 + shipping.

No. The OE is ACDELCO 24204624. The ACDELCO gasket, it may have been made by Federal Mogul (Fel-Pro) or Victor Reinz or who knows? It would be validated by General Motors to incorporate updates. However, Fel-Pro makes very good gaskets and the Fel-Pro should work fine. I would buy the Fel-Pro and I would carefully follow any instructions that came with it.

What happens if the sleeve in the bore that the filter stem fits in is bad?

dtrumbo wrote:

What happens if the sleeve in the bore that the filter stem fits in is bad?

You are supposed to replace that. The new filters come with a new one. You need to pry the old one out. I take a screwdriver and small hammer and carefully collapse it enough to pull it out. Just be careful not to damage the surrounding metal.

I didn't replace mine when I change my fluid and filter last, th rubber and everything looked good but like a dummy I didn't think about the fact that the filter went in with little to no effort. Currently when the trans fluid gets to operating temp it will not shift right, like it's not getting enough pressure. Just wanted to hear some symptoms so I could identify that with a little more certainty as the culprit.

It's a very easy thing to skip when doing the filter, and can be a big headache if it's part of the problem. Think sucking air in with the fluid, instead of just filtered fluid. Many things would not work right.

It's worth going in to replace that thing. It's a real bastard to replace sometimes.

When the trans gets to operating temp it will do things like, not hold the gear in (slips and rides on the torque converter), shift into the wrong gear (if it's supposed to be in 2nd it will go ahead and shift into 3rd, or 4th), and when coming to a complete stop the torque converter will not engage untill the last second and it bogs the motor down. It does eventually release though. I have no errors for the solenoids and the fluid looks good. (level and color)

Sounds like your TCC solenoid has something in it. Solenoids in these are touchy. Sometimes they can be fixed by a GM tech with a TechII who can actuate the solenoid full open/close a few times. Sometimes they will free up in a cleaning flush. Sometimes not, you are just screwed and need to replace the solenoids.