Stuttering sometimes when driving

There is a procedure in the owners manual for unlocking the code on the radio, IIRC.
I had a shop work on my car a while back and they disconnected the battery to do some work and gave me the car back with radio locked. Had to go to dealer and pay those bastards to unlock it with a Tech 2.
If you don't have procedure for disabling the Theft-Lock don't disconnect Battery yet. If you need I'll look it up for you. Let me know!
Ditto to what Derek said, don't use possible contaminated, cracked or damaged parts. You may not be able to see the small fractures or bits of metal stuck in the insulator of a spark plug. For $10.00 buy new ones.

What kind of plugs? Never seen any AL104s anywhere so I need a different recommendation.

And yes, if you can for certain get the unlock code I'd like it - don't like the idea of my radio locking itself...

O.K. i'll look up Theft-Lock info for you and post as soon as I can.
I bought the Autolite 104's at a local auto parts store, they had them in stock.
Not Auto Zone or any of those but a store that supplies the local garages. I would think NAPA could get them for you if they don't have them in stock. They can get pretty much anything you ask for unless it's a dealer only part.
Be right back.

Your radio should not lock itself just for disconnecting the battery. I've done it several times and never had the radio lock out.

"Activating the Theft Deterrent Feature"
NOTE: If you allow more than 15 seconds to elapse between any steps, The radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over at Step 4.
1. Write down any three or four digit number from 000 to 9999 and keep it.
2. Turn the ignition to ACCESSORY or RUN.
3.Turn the radio off.
4. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down until ---- shows on the display. Next you will use the secret code number which you have written down.
5. Press MIN and 000 will appear on the display.
6. Press MIN again to make the last two digits agree with your code.
7. Press HRS to make the first one or two digits agree with your code.
8. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show REP to let you know that you need to repeat Steps 5 through 7 to confirm your secret code.
9. Press AM-FM and this time the display will show SEC to let you know that your radio is secure.

"UNLOCKING THE THEFT-DETERRENT FEATURE AFTER a POWER LOSS"
Enter your secret code as follows: pause no more than 15 seconds between steps:
1. LOC appears when the ignition is on.
2. Press MIN and 000 will appear on the display.
3. Press MIN again to make the last two digits agree with your code.
4. Press HRS to make the first one or two digits agree with your code.
5. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show SEC, indicating the radio is now operable and secure.
If you enter the wrong code eight times INOP will appear on the display. You will have to wait an hour with the ignition on before you can try again.

"DISABLING THE THEFT-DETERRENT FEATURE"
Enter your code as follows; pause no more than 15 sec.
1. Turn IGN. to Accesory or Run.
2.Turn radio off
3. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down until SEC shows on the display
4. Press MIN and 000 will appear on the display.
5. Press MIN again to make the last two digits agree with you code.
6. Press HRS to make the first one or two digits agree with your code.
7. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the code matches. The display will show ---, indicating that the radio is no longer secured.

AA, you might want to move this to the radio section for anyone without an owners manual.

Derek,
The radio will not lock out if the Theft-Deterrent feature is disabled. (small red light near volume control not flashing.)
If small red light is flashing before you disconnect Battery then the radio will lock out.
That's what happened to me and I did not have the code that the previous owner had set. So I had to pay dealer ($30.00) to unlock with Tech 2.

When will the radio flash red, when the key is out of the ignition and the car is locked? I doubt the old people before me did it, they probably didn't even know how to get into that mode.

About the spark plugs, my dad reacted how I thought he would. I told him I didn't want to use his spark plugs and he said we're using them. I said NO and essentially made it sound like if I don't use those, I'm not getting any. So I guess I'm changing my spark plugs myself which sucks because I don't know how to gap the plugs or anything like that. I've stood around while he did it before but I guess I never paid attention to what you actually need to do. What would I need to do? Is it as straightforward as take the old ones out and put the new ones in?

Also, NO ONE has AL104s around here. I need another brand alternative that is just as good/better. What kind of cost would I be looking at for said set of spark plugs?

EDIT: I did some looking and Platinum plugs seem the most costly. I'm surprised no one suggested Intense for ordering AL104s, they sell them. Now from what I see AL104s are a measly $1.79 a piece. How are they better than say this Bosch platinum spark plug for $5.99? Seriously, what makes AL104s the apparent choice?

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The link did not work, sorry Kevin

Yes,
The red light will flash when the ignition is off and key out, if the anti-theft is activated.

Shintsu wrote:

What kind of plugs? Never seen any AL104s anywhere so I need a different recommendation.

And yes, if you can for certain get the unlock code I'd like it - don't like the idea of my radio locking itself...

I would get the same plugs that came in the car from the factory. Ask around where you buy them to get someone to show you how to check/verify the gap. They should be preset from the factory, very easy to check...

Remember!
If you start changing more than one thing at a time you could be creating another problem and end up chasing your tail. In other words, dont change the wires and plugs together(unless you ruin the wires).

Bert

Okay, I have a problem. What is the part number or the piece called that is the plastic tubing that goes around the battery? As I lifted the seat up the piece of shit totally came off and I see the pipe is just dangling by a tiny bit of plastic holding it on. I can see the hole looking right out the car. I have not a clue how it's supposed to go on or anything but I know it's broken.

If it helps, it has a tag on part of that says WARNING! May cause damage to seat belts from sulfuric acid. What does this piping do? I don't want to drive it now unless I get whatever piece of shit part that is.

That's the vent tube. It provides a path for hydrogen gas or acid to escape to the outside of the car. Mine broke, but I fixed it with some electrical tape.
I don't know if you can order that piece any more or not.

Well, it had some electrical tape left over on it but it had totally come off. I'm just worried it'll poison me while I'm driving or something else bad. I don't even see how it's supposed to stay attached to the battery, there is nothing to hold it in place at all.

As a sidenote, the newer body Auroras also have the battery under the backseat. Strange since they're based off the LeSabre. Sometimes I wish the battery was just under the hood like most cars, then this wouldn't be a concern...

You might can call Ed Morad and get him to ship you the part.


Bert

Shintsu wrote:

Well, it had some electrical tape left over on it but it had totally come off. I'm just worried it'll poison me while I'm driving or something else bad. I don't even see how it's supposed to stay attached to the battery, there is nothing to hold it in place at all.

As a sidenote, the newer body Auroras also have the battery under the backseat. Strange since they're based off the LeSabre. Sometimes I wish the battery was just under the hood like most cars, then this wouldn't be a concern...

You were checking the batt. cables?

Thats a good idea, a corroded/loose cable can cause all kinds of weird symptoms.
You cant tell for sure about the condition unless you remove them from the battery and inspect closely.

Bert

Well, against my liking my dad fabricated a new rubber hose with aluminum reinforcement and glued or something it to the assembly and reattached it. I suppose it's fine now, but he said the old one had cobbwebs in it which indicated the old one was never used.

I reset the PCM, left the battery unhooked for two hours and replugged it. Also, no one told me my trip odo would reset. I gauge when I need gas by it because my gas gauge after 90 miles still thinks I'm sitting on full. I don't need to drive anywhere tonight so tomorrow I'll see if she's still stuttering under acceleration.

As a refresher to make sure I didn't say something that makes this issue seem different, I'll say the problem again. When I'm in over drive and I'm going say 65 mph and want to go 70 mph, I try to give the car easy gas to slowly make it go up to 70 and not downshift. That is where I get the stuttering, trying to accelerate lightly in a high gear. There's no consistent pattern while stuttering either.

My dad also suggested the fuel filter - would replacing that possibly help? If this PCM reset didn't fix it, what should the next step be?

Plugs or wires. If you can get autolite plugs, you'd be fine with something like a 605 or AP605 instead of 104s. 104s are copper plugs, they burn colder than stock, could cost you a little economy. I believe 606 is the right range autolite plug, 605s are cooler, 104 is even cooler. AP in front of the number means platinum core, which won't burn down as quickly as a copper core. 104s are copper core plugs, you need to check the gap annually. Platinum core plugs won't need to have their gap checked as frequently but supposedly don't carry heat away as quickly as a copper core plug.

I think you'll be fine with autolite AP605s or just get stock plugs since you have no plans to mod your car.

Whatever you do, do NOT reuse the plugs from that blown motor.

Bert

Grasshopper, tell him you agree with his decision to use the used plugs and would like to help him install them so that you can learn. Surely he will allow the young Grasshopper to remove the old plugs from the Pontiac.
Then when you are removing them you "accidentally" crack one its easy to do. Then you drop one on the concrete/pavement, which should help him decide to buy new plugs.

As for which plugs to get, let him make that decision also.
As far as factoring in future mods to your plug choice you should focus on solving your problem and not use what you "might" or "would like to do" "someday" into your decision making process.
Your dad or the part store can show you how to gap the plugs.
It aint brain surgery, if you can put a damn ehthernet card in a computer you can gap a plug.

Or you could go to the parts store and buy a set of AC Delco plugs just like came in the car(listed in owners manual) have the part store guy check the gap and verify is is preset(should be correct straight out of the box). Then round up his tools(surely you can do that) 3/8" ratchet, two 3/8" extensions and a 3/8" swivel joint and go for it. Also get the anti seize from the parts store(little plastic pack) and just put a dab on the threads. When you reinstall them, put the plugs in the socket and use your hand to start them and then thread them in using your hand until they are all the way in. Put the ratchet on and just snug it up a little, again it aint brain surgery YOU CAN DO IT!
The hardest part will be getting the wires off. Twist the BOOT back and forth a few times and then pull on the BOOT.
You can experiment on the Pontiac, start with the easy to reach plugs in the front and familiarize yourself with the process. Then move to the back and figure out how to snake your arm and the socket/extension on the plugs. Then after you get the socket/extension on the plug put the ratchet on the extension....

How about you go remove one of the plugs on the front bank of the Riv and post a picture of it and show it to your dad. Very easy to get the boot off the front plugs and remove them...

Bert

Good idea Burt,
I was going to suggest something similar to him, just to get on the good side of Dad and to help / learn how to to the job of replacing spark plugs and other work he will need to learn in the future.
Need to ask Dad just to help and let you do the work. That way you get the experience and the feel for torquing the plugs yourself.
Then you can change them out anytime you want to.

Went out and bought some NGK Platinum spark plugs. They were about $2.80 a piece or so (Came out to almost $18). These were upon recommendation from the guy at Advance Auto and they look nice. He said to use a .60 gap. I guess we'll put these on later today.

If spark plugs don't fix the problem what should the next thing be? I noticed when I was in 2nd gear trying to get some acceleration it really stuttered badly and my dad was with me and said he didn't think it was spark plugs since it isn't consistent. I would think if it was water in the gas or something that would be pretty consistent too. Any other ideas if this doesn't fix it?

We only had time to change the front three for now. We'll do the other three tomorrow. I think we found the problem. The farthest to the driver side front spark plug wire, when we took it out the wire stayed in there. It looked like it was disconnected inside there. Fortunately my dad had spark plug wires left from the GTP from before the motor blew up that he took off it that were probably fine. Anyways, we put that on and from what little we can tell in the driveway it seems to be running fine.

Tomorrow we will finish the other three and see if it still stutters but it seems like that plug was crap in this case. As a sidenote, the spark plugs I took out were Autolite Platinums. They were all evenly burnt but the new ones are very fine tipped. Hopefully this will make the Riv run a little smoother and remove that nasty stuttering!

Tell us which plugs you bought, exactly.

Bert