Transmission problem..is it all in my head? (Camshaft Position Sensor)

I haven't gotten my code scanned yet, but after driving my car after a week on vacation, I think I know what's wrong.


When I was going to the mall, I hit the gas one time for fun, and the transmission started studdering, like it wanted to shift up while holding the same gear. The s/c made a wowowowowo noise and I immediately let off completely. There's the Service Engine Soon Light. Later, when I go to leave the mall, I shift into reverse to back out of my spot, and there it is. "Clunk." The car shook a little. I reversed, stopped, then shifted to drive. "Clunk." This time less quiet and less rattle, but still enough to clearly notice. Now I'm scared. I'm driving very, very, very, VERY conservatively and the steering feels a little shaky, although it's probably just me. The whole car feels shaky, but like I said, it's most likely my nerves.

So, my transmission bucks whenever I shift into drive or reverse. Am I screwed over yet? Looks like this is my revelation. As addicted to it as I am, I gotta wise up and say, "No more WOT for me." I'm done, I'm going to try and stay as calm with the gas as I can.


Anyone have an idea of what this'll cost me? The dealer I got in touch with wants $99 just to scan the codes. I'm seriously afraid. I need to do new parts, not used and not rebuilt. "New" and "replace" are the words for me, because this car has to last me past college, and I know the rest of the car is solid.




Eugh...I'm pissed at myself because I know I'm the reason why my car is having troubles...I fucking did too much gas all the time, put too much strain on a 14 year old car...I'm a fucktard.

IBx1 wrote:

Anyone have an idea of what this'll cost me?

$1327.62, Duh, my crystal ball isn't working too good right now. So don't quote me.!!!!

Actually, after sitting in the car just now and showing my dad what happens, I think it may just be me not driving it for a week and getting un-used to it. Either way, whether or not it's normal and I forgot, my transmission definitely studdered. I'm keeping it calm from now on.

my car does it after i dont drive it for a week end

Any idea how much a valve body will run? I couldn't find one on any of the sites, either because they don't sell them or the section for them was empty. I hate to jump to conclusions but if that's what's wrong with my car I'd like to know how much the part will cost. I know labor will be like $1,200 of the total cost...

I realize that you have a Series I SC, so take what I have to say with a grain of salt.

I had a similar problem. My transmission would "clunk" into reverse. It didn't clunk into first, though, so I would shift it into first, then into reverse and that seemed to get rid of the clunk.

So I babied the tranny from when it started clunking. Once in a while, I'd forget to shift it in first before shifting it in reverse, and it would clunk.

Eventually, months and months after this first started happening, I heard some things grinding around in the transmission. The car drove fine for the next two days - then, nothing. The transmission would not hook up.

I took it to the transmission shop, and sure enough - hard parts were broken. It needed to be rebuilt. $1,600 later, and I have a "better than new" transmission, because they replace just about everything internally, and they put all the upgraded parts in there, including the tougher 4th gear.

Anyway, so yeah, my tranny eventually went and needed a rebuild. Sucked, and was totally out of nowhere. And you know what? The entire time I've owner the car (2 1/2 years now) I didn't really "hit it" from a stop, or go WOT. I was pretty gentle on the car. I don't think that I did the damage myself.

The scary part? This happened when my car only had 65k on the clock. So the whole "Low Miles = Low amount of Repairs" rule was not in effect for me.

I really hope that you don't need a rebuild, because that's $1,600 out the door (or more, depending on where you go). I do know this - if you don't get it checked out, eventually it could self destruct. Don't talk yourself into thinking that you know exactly went on in there, because those theories don't mean anything when you're hit with a huge bill.

IIRC the series I SC engines were mated to the 4T60 trannies, which failed pretty much as you described. In the rebuild they can be 'upgraded' to 4T65 levels with beefier gears and output shaft.

Especially if the failure was after your mods.

Do tell.

Albertj

did u go to schucks or autozone to see if theres still a code be thrown i just went threw the same thing u had mine was a tcc solienod what was wierd the code was still being thrown without the service engine light being on but it did flash on for about 2 hours stange

Well, the clunk is normal and is pretty much gone, but now I know what's wrong with my transmission. When I gradually go on the gas from a stop or a 20-30 roll into WOT, I catch the car in 1st gear at a bad time, because it wants to shift into 2nd from the position of the gas pedal, and wants to hold 1st because the gas pedal is still being pushed down. The result is a fast studdering sound from the S/C which you can hear very clearly thanks to my CAI, at which point the service engine light comes right on. I was told it may be the valve body, but if I have to have one piece replaced I figure I may as well save on labor and have it all replaced at once instead of going back when something else breaks. Since parts are relatively inexpensive and the labor is the real bank killer, it sounds like a good idea to me.


I haven't gotten it scanned because so far the only dealer I've gotten in touch with wants $100 just to scan it. We only have an Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone somewhere around here, I forget where, but I think that if you scan your car there you're obliged to have service done and buy the parts there. I'll keep calling around and double check with the auto parts stores around. Very few of them around here, again.

Quote :

I forget where, but I think that if you scan your car there you're obliged to have service done and buy the parts there.

Horse crap. No store or shop can offer a free diagnoses, and then turn around and tell you you must buy parts from them if they find a problem. Take advantage of their service if it's offered for free. Worst they can do is charge you for the service, but the price must be settled up front.

My 1992 Regal did something similar to what you are describing with the trans. I just tried to stay out of the gas. It had around 245,000 on it.

The Murray's by my house allows you to borrow a scanner for free from them for a a week or so. It caught an MAF and misfire problem of mine, try to see if any other stores will let you borrow theres!

Its really hard to troubleshoot anything at all without a scan tool. Even with one, i find my self fixing many things that didn't really need it in the first place. 100$ to scan is crazy... Drive up here and I'll scan it for free. Its only a 9 hour drive

Misfire, no transmission problems. That's what the mechanics think from the road test, and it makes a lot of sense. Official diagnosis report tomorrow.

Camshaft position sensor. Parts and labor, $320. Thank god!


Funny thing, the mechanic that took the test drive with me works with turbodiesel trucks, so he wasn't used to the sound from my s/c. Told the shop manager he thought there was a bearing problem, but I told the guy that it's the air intake and it's supposed to make that noise. A bearing problem sounds like a big pepper grinder right? Any distinct noise?