FAQ: Crankshaft Position Sensor (DTC P0336)

i have had an intermitent problem with my CKP sensor for the past year now. once in a blue moon or sometimes more, my car would feel like it missfired and then 11 seconds later my trac off light would turn on. it never affected drivability (except for smoking the tires up if i forgot trac was disabled). it would only do this once during a drive cycle and as soon as i tuned the car off and back on the light would go away. the miss read of the crank sensor only seemed to happen if the weather was really humid (raining) or if it was hot (above 75*). my temp gauge would almost always be at 185* when this would happen and if i was sitting still the car would miss enough to shut off. on occasion the car would not crank at all (as if the sensor was dead) but then a second crank and it would start right up.
very rarely it would misread the sensor enough time to set the CEL. (still P0336)
so today i went to a friends house and borrowed some tools and replaced the sensor. i am suposed to get a CASE learn now since it has been unpluged but i dont have a CEL or anything so i'll see if i really need one.
so far it has not messed up but only time will tell. i will get back to you if i have any problems, but i really hope this fixes my issues.
btw the sensor is only about ($15 ebay) but the labor is quoted at 2 hrs b/c you must remove the harmonic balancer to get to the sensor. i did it almost by myself (had someone hold the flywheel) in about an hour and a half. i made sure to check the reluctor wheel and 12 clips cleaning everything up as i went along. maybe it was a goofy sensor or maybe it was dirt in the way? it has been a problem since a blew a belt and i found parts of rubber/steel on the balancer and magnet.
Matthew

My girlfriend has her '97 SC riv in the shop. They want $245 to replace the crank sensor. Car won't start.

Should they have been able to find that problem using a scanner? They've been looking at it for three hours already.

Man oh man - $245 sounds like a lot for a little part replacement too.

Thoughts please?

Scott

$245 isn't bad...shop labor pays maybe two hours to do start to finish. $80 an hour shop labor @ 2 hours = $160. Crank sensor - $40. There is $200...plus they have time diagnosing it. Figure in tax and shop costs...you have $245!

I just replaced my crank sensor on my lift and it took about an hour+ from start to finish but I have been wrenching for years. My 95 wouldn't start either and bought the crank sensor and it fired right up once done.

Any repairs today under a grand is cheap in todays world!! $245 is chump change to shops...just being honest!

naw thats about right....the have to pull the harmonic balancer off to get the crank sensor off

I can't thank you enough for your replies! Thank you and Happy Thanksgiving

Scott

Guys, I'm stumped. Cruising along at 50mph the other day and the thing just dies - no sputter, no warning, no idiot lights. Car would then crank, but not fire. Had to tow it. Replaced the battery because it was due anyway and amazingly enough it fired right up. That made no sense to me, but whatever. Alternator tested fine. Runs 7 days with no problems, then it suddenly happens again doing 70mph on the Interstate. Cranks but won't fire, but 15 minutes later it starts right up. Runs fine for 3 days, then does it again. Now I'm afraid to drive it and risk being stranded somewhere. No codes stored, can't diagnose if I can't replicate. Ever had this happen or any idea where to start???? Buddy of mine things it "might" be the crank sensor, but I don't want to just start throwing darts. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Sounds like crank sensor

X2 on crank position sensor.

Thanks for the responses! Sounds like I'll go down the path of having the crank position sensor replaced and hopefully be back on the road. I'll follow-up with the verdict in hopes that it might help somebody else with similar symptoms in the future. Thanks again!

Rickw wrote:

Sounds like crank sensor

x3. First thing that came to my mind as well.

Aren't they great, I'm getting a crank sensor too.

Took 3 weeks and $700 of unnecessary work but I'll finally have a Riv that turns over the first time.

Hopefully this weekend I'll get it back.

Ya definately sounds to me like the crank sensor, just had to replace one in my buddies 96 PAU 2 or three months ago, with no problems since. Sorry Andrew it cost you so much cash and time to figure this out man, you should be asking for some help with our general knowledge before dumping out that kind of money bro.

what kind of car? Reatta?

X 4 on crank sensor, If dealer's tec argues (the service manager or the tec may not see that many crank failures, it's a 100,000+ mile problem typically) tell them "replace it by customer request."

Reason for dealer - their parts+labor for this job while not free is under $300 and tey have the special gizmo to make sure they don't bugger the harmonic balancer. Most independent mechanics, however, can do this too just fine.

The BIg Hint here pointing to the crank sensor is that no codes were stored. IIRC other than a direct hit with high explosives a crank sensor failure is about the only thing that will stun the car into total and immediate lifelessness without storing any code whatsoever.

Albertj


PS - Also at a dealer they can use Tech II scanner (or the new PC interface tool) to test fuel pump. That is - be sure (as a maintenance item) to check fuel pump as well as connections to fuel pump for corrosion. If you have bad connection at fuel pump they will not be able to "command" it On. If you have flaky fuel pump it will not build pressure right at the fuel rail (the sensor there will tell if that's the case). This failure, however, usually stores one or another OBD code.

I had a 1988 Buick Lesaber with the battery mounted in engine compartment and I would be going 70mph and it would shut off like the key was turned. No codes. Turns out a motor mount was broken and when the engine raised up it would loosen the positive battery cable. When it would shut off it would usually start back up right away but sometimes it would take awhile. It took forever to find it until I saw the engine raise up. I couldn't even tell the mount was broken until then. I mention only because you thought alternator and replaced the battery. Free to check positive cable and engine ground cable under hood.

Yeah, I probably should have mentioned this problem is occurring on a '98 Riv - my user name of redreatta might be a little misleading! I've turned the mechanic loose on the crank sensor and should get it back Friday afternoon. He's an idependent, but a capable and trustworthy guy - but he specializes in offroad Jeeps so probably doesn't see too many of these! All this info helps and I appreciate it....I do have an '88 Reatta that likes to snap motor mounts and I get tired of replacing them! And don't even get me started on the ABS issues - just make sure you change lanes if you have a Reatta tailgating you.....

Just a quick follow-up to let you guys know that 2 weeks later I'm still in business and the crank sensor definitely seemed to be the culprit. I really appreciate all the input and assistance in diagnosing the problem. Thanks again and best wishes to everyone for a great 2009! Mike

well after a year and a half and 25000 miles the riv finally broke down.. it just sputtered and stopped. then i started it again and it snapped out of it for a minuite and then we had to slow down and it sputtered and stopped again. idk wat it was doing. i could give it gas when it was doing the sputtering and it would just sit at that rpm and then sputter out and die. any thoughts???

Fuel pump..

fuel pump, i agree thats what mine did. It's super easy to change!

turned out to be something called the crank sensor. it was changed and it hasnt been acting any differently since i got it back.

98SuperRiv wrote:

turned out to be something called the crank sensor. it was changed and it hasnt been acting any differently since i got it back.

do you mean it still won't run, or it runs and dies, or it's all fixed or what?

Who can help me.

I have done a search for all topics with Crankshaft Position Sensor in it as well as looking at all the part numbers listings including Brian Esser's most recent and very excellent addition to our available part numbers.

What I need is the GM part number for a Crankshaft Position Sensor for a 1998 Riv.

It may be here somewhere but I'll be damned if i can find it.
I need to order one or buy locally and take it up the shoot.
Have had the random engine shut - down, but start right up happeneing very rarely for the past few weeks. But, AH HA, the bitch spit a code today, finally.
Had suspected the CKP sensor all along, but got confirmation of a system fault.

I plan on doing a complete wiring harness shake down and just replace the sensor because I can, even if i find a bad wire along the way.

Any help with a current P/N would be appreciated.

Also, does anyone know if the dispute between using 4" long 1/4" x 28 thread bolts or M6 x 1.0 x 75 mm or longer has ever been resolved.????
For the Harmonic Balancer Puller

If not I'll get both and figure it out.

I dimly recall it was M6s on the puller but don't belive me; I think it's posted elsewhere on this site. MAybe Aaron can help you find it.

As for the CKP, old # was 10456161. I think pretty much all the 3800 engines Series I (circa MY 1993) and later used it, up to and including the 2008 Lacrosse.

...and current #s are 10456161 (Delco # 213151) and 88864356 (also Delco, # 2134665).

IF I was you the only thing I'd sweat is being sure NOT to get a Standard T-series or Airtex CK sensor. PM me if you want details. The high-line Standard, the Delphi, Delco sensors are what I'd choose from. See if your local NAPA has an Echlin ECH CSS114 or Delphi # SS10213...

Albertj