Write-Up: Oil Pan Gasket Replacement and Aluminum Oil Pan

highwaywarrior wrote:

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been looking around her to see anything on replacing the oipan and gasket in my car. Has anyone done it WITHOUT puting the car on a lift? Realy dont feel like paying out the ass for labor.

I did mine on ramps lying on my back; I figured it was pretty straight forward and I didn’t feel like moving cars around at the time.

It is doable no doubt, but I will not do it again that way! Less room to work causes more messes and just generally a pain, mostly in my back! The next one I do I will go ahead and move cars around and use my lift!

99Rivman wrote:

highwaywarrior wrote:

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been looking around her to see anything on replacing the oipan and gasket in my car. Has anyone done it WITHOUT puting the car on a lift? Realy dont feel like paying out the ass for labor.

I did mine on ramps lying on my back; I figured it was pretty straight forward and I didn’t feel like moving cars around at the time.

It is doable no doubt, but I will not do it again that way! Less room to work causes more messes and just generally a pain, mostly in my back! The next one I do I will go ahead and move cars around and use my lift!

....hold on, YOU'VE GOT A LIFT?! I am definitely coming over to see you at some point

al_roethlisberger wrote:

....hold on, YOU'VE GOT A LIFT?! I am definitely coming over to see you at some point

It can be seen here ...

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t7844-newest-addition-to-the-garage

Alright guys and gals. Last Friday, I installed an Aluminum oil pan, new pick-up tube, and oil filter adapter on my Riv. This was/is an easy oil pan upgrade IMO. The pan, pick-up tube, and adapter are all off of a 2000-2005 Pontiac Bonneville. It doesn't matter if it's supercharged or not. I ordered all 3 parts from Morad shipped to my door for $90.
The reason the oil pick-up tube had to be replaced is because on the Bonne oil pan, the windage tray is built in to the pan and in a different location than the Riv. Same goes for the filter adapter. I tried putting just the pan on at first, but the factory Riv filter location made the filter hit the pan, and couldn't even be threaded on.

There was only one small modification that I had to do, which I totally forgot to take a picture of (I was in a hurry). There was a casting lump above the upper right bolt location on the filter adapter that I needed to grind off. It hit the Power Steering Pump otherwise. Other than that, it all bolted right on.

Here are the new parts. Notice the pan uses a thick reinforced rubber gasket. These are only available on a factory pan. If you order a new pan from a dealer, it will not come with the gasket groove, and you will have to use GMS (RTV). You cannot order the pick-up tube or oil filter adapter new...they are discontinued from GM.



Oil pan off.....One thing you may find when removing the factory pan, is that it won't simply come down. The stock gasket is made of thick plastic, and also serves as the windage tray. It very well may stuck to the pan like mine was. You'll have to free it from the pan itself. I used a long 90* pick to break it free. After you get the pan off, the two 8mm pick-up tube bolts need to be removed to get the factory gasket off.
It's also a bit tricky to remove all four 13mm bolts that hold the filter adapter in place. The axle, the trans, and the sway bar make it tricky, but you can do it with a 3/8 ratchet, short 13mm socket, and a 6" extension which you'll use for the upper bolts. I also had to unplug the transmission output sensor, and the oil pressure switch which is mounted in the adapter (which needs to be transferred to the new adapter). Also, I know it's tricky to see, but in the below pic, you can see a little steel "cup" sticking out of the engine block where the adapter bolts to. There's a spring behind that cup. That's the oil pressure relief "valve". Careful not to drop them on the floor, as it will roll away. I had to install the new adapter with what seemed like 3 hands lol. I had to hold the new gasket in place (with all 4 bolts in the holes), and try and push that valve in enough to get the bolts started. Once 1 of the bolts was started, I was able to "walk in" the adapter little by little, corner by corner evenly, until it was touching the block. You don't want to tighten one corner at a time, otherwise you'll jam up that relief cup and probably break it.



Once the adapter is on, oil pressure switch installed (with new thread tape), and the trans output sensor plugged back in, installing the new pick-up tube and pan is the easy part. You can go ahead and bolt the new pick-up tube into place, then bolt the pan up. Last thing installed should be the Oil Level Switch. It looks like this when completed...All of the plastic shields fit back into place without any modifications.



Notice how the new oil filter adapter moves and angles the filter away from the pan. I also like how it seems more shielded behind the pan.



Don't forget to get new gaskets for all 3 parts. I think I spent a total of around $130 for the whole set-up.
You will also gain a 1/2 quart of oil capacity by installing this pan. Where the factory Riv pan is angled to fit the oil filter, the new pan is square, adding oil capacity. Not sure what else to write, as there is already a write-up on changing the gasket.

 

Question everyone! I read through this write-up real quick because I'm replacing my original gasket tomorrow, and was wondering what the deal was exactly with the RTV sealant. I got a new tube of it, but my gasket says it is an improved design and doesn't recommend RTV. Just to put some on the 4 corners of the block.

Should I really put RTV around the entire gasket anyway or just leave it dry as it instructs?

Picked this aluminium oil pan at pick n pull Hammond, Indiana off a 000 Bonne. It wasn't this clean when I got it, believe me. I think the coolant got in the oil cause there was 1/2 inch of sludge on bottom of the pan. Still gotta get the pick up tube and oil filter bracket .

Z-type wrote:

Question everyone! I read through this write-up real quick because I'm replacing my original gasket tomorrow, and was wondering what the deal was exactly with the RTV sealant. I got a new tube of it, but my gasket says it is an improved design and doesn't recommend RTV. Just to put some on the 4 corners of the block.

Should I really put RTV around the entire gasket anyway or just leave it dry as it instructs?

I did mine a few months ago. i put rtv around the whole pan.

brettfavreisamonster wrote:

Z-type wrote:

Question everyone! I read through this write-up real quick because I'm replacing my original gasket tomorrow, and was wondering what the deal was exactly with the RTV sealant. I got a new tube of it, but my gasket says it is an improved design and doesn't recommend RTV. Just to put some on the 4 corners of the block.

Should I really put RTV around the entire gasket anyway or just leave it dry as it instructs?

I did mine a few months ago. i put rtv around the whole pan.

Yea, i usually smear a thin layer on a clean pan (even go to the extent of wiping it down with rubbing alcohol on a rag) then press the gasket in. I'm gonna let it dry for a day on the oil pan. I still need to get the pickup tube. Does anyone know if its absolutely necessary to replace the oil filter bracket? Im getting it cause I read somewhere you need it as well. Only because I'm upgrading to the aluminum pan. Looks good

I'm looking to put an '04 LeSabre pan in my '96 SC.

I pulled the pan and pickup tube at the local yard the other day, but for the life of me could not get to the 4th bolt on the filter adapter due to the engine bracket. I have one on the way from Michigan.

My question to those who have done this - how long did it take? I got a quote from a shop today saying 5 hours!

And if anyone has done this on a '96, does the oil level sensor (a one year only part as mentioned in a prior post) transfer to the new pan easily?

ubushaus wrote:

I'm looking to put an '04 LeSabre pan in my '96 SC.

I pulled the pan and pickup tube at the local yard the other day, but for the life of me could not get to the 4th bolt on the filter adapter due to the engine bracket. I have one on the way from Michigan.

My question to those who have done this - how long did it take? I got a quote from a shop today saying 5 hours!

And if anyone has done this on a '96, does the oil level sensor (a one year only part as mentioned in a prior post) transfer to the new pan easily?

Only took me a couple hours or so, but I also work at a shop and use a lift. The pan damn near falls out of this car.

As for the sensor, I cannot say.

Well so I went to do my oil tonight and was very upset to find out my drain plug will not tighten or come out, it just spins in place. I guess my only option is to replace the pan as I've tried to wedge a screwdriver/ pull and spin with vice grips... it wont budge. I'm thinking if anything the tack weld on the insert broke. So I guess my option is to just replace the pan. Anyone have some tips on doing it? Do I need to lift the motor? How much of a pia is this job?

It isn't all that easy. The oil pan gasket on this engine is "structural". It doubles as a splash shield. The oil pick up tube goes through it. In order to successfully remove the oil pan, you must separate the gasket from the pan. Sometimes this can prove quite difficult. I've had them damn near weld themselves to the pan.

That being said, it is not supposed to be a hard job, no. The oil pan pretty much just falls off.

So on these cars we dont have to lift the motor like the grand prix and w body cars

h20man wrote:

So on these cars we dont have to lift the motor like the grand prix and w body cars

I merged your topic with this existing thread as it should help answer your questions.

If you have a small enough hose, you may be able to use something like this to pump the old oil out. https://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html This should make it easier when you change the oil pan.

h20man wrote:

So on these cars we dont have to lift the motor like the grand prix and w body cars

No. Take off the plastic shields around the Starter to access those few 3/8" bolts that are tucked up by the trans. The rest are gravy. The hardest part is going to be getting the pan/gasket separated.

When my pan "went", I replaced it with an Aluminum pan from a 2005-ish Bonneville. Also had to install the Bonneville oil filter adapter (relocates the filter to fit the pan). Just sayin....cheap mod that's easy to do.

EDIT: I just realized we're in that thread! Scroll up!

Aluminum oil pan on Ebay, no pick up tube or filter adapter though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pan-2005-Buick-Pontiac-3800-casting-number-12597244/111914262468?hash=item1a0e9c1fc4:g:cLMAAOSwB4NWzIcT

Recently I replaced my oil pan. Had to
Be careful, not only plastic bottles jump and dance in the middle of the road.