SES light/Quad Driver Module code help...

Anyone ever get a quad driver code on 95 Riv? If so what fixed it? I changed EVERY eletrical part on the car save for the wire harnes. Even changed some parts more than once.


Dave

I had a Quad driver 1 code and changed out the boost control solenoid and it fixed the problem. which quad driver code are you getting. quad driver one controls the boost solenoid evap purge solenoid and I believe the tc solenoid

jhodges wrote:

I had a Quad driver 1 code and changed out the boost control solenoid and it fixed the problem. which quad driver code are you getting. quad driver one controls the boost solenoid evap purge solenoid and I believe the tc solenoid

Id have to rescan it i dont recall for sure but i think it was like 1680 or something. It's a OBD 2 code

Dave

I was just gonna make a thread about this...Last night I my service engine light came out, so I pulled into a parking lot and plugged in my scanner...and it pulled a code for the "Quad Driver Module QDM 2 Fault" Now This code has popped up before and I had the boost solenoid changed at Buick back in the summer of '06....can it be that it went again after a year and a couple months? WHat would cause it to keep failing?

Also using Seafoam in my Riv the night before this happened wouldnt cause this code would it? I only added it to my gas tank as per the directions on the back of the can.

BCS's do seem to go more frequently than we'd like to admit. I think the QDM 2 is the BCS/Evap/TCC.

Is this something that can be easily changed in the driveway, or does the blower have to come off and various other things to access it?

Bad news .. DTC 1650 QDM2 is Shit and TCC soleniods only.

Hey I'm having the same problem but I'm having a quad module 3 error along with cam/crank error (99 total) so I changed the cam sensor and it went down to 3. What causes the quad 3 on a series one?

Hey all, alright where do we begin..I noticed about 2 weeks ago the car just randomly began to shut off, mostly at lights and when I start it up. I took it and got it scanned, and it had a quad module 3 error along with a cam/crank error as well. The guy told me the quad was most likely the ICM and I switched that out, but a few days later, same thing, car cutting off. So we scanned again, same quad module error with 99 cam/crank errors so I picked up the two sensors from AutoZone and replaced I believe the cam sensor ( passenger side, lower end of motor?) and when we started it up, it was significantly louder and rougher than before. After a few minutes, it levelled out some but was still loud. However before we drove it we scanned it and we went down to 3 errors on cam/crank. So today Ive was noticing it running rough, and the SES light was on, and when I was on the freeway the car shuddered hard, like it wanted to cut off and continued driving normally. Anyone know what is causing this, and also where do I locate the crank sensor on the 3800 Series I? This car is getting on my nerves and Im ready to have it disappear.

Have you checked all your plugs and wires recently?

Sorry, I don't have much experience with the S1.

yeah the motor was put in march, and I used Bosch Double Platinum no gapping plugs and I have a set of new wires on there. The guy was asking me whether or not I had new plugs and wires done too...maybe I'll check those as well and see if something is loose or worn.

Any chance somebody swapped a few plug wires around while going after the crank sensor?

he jacked the car up and took the wheel off and replaced it. it was at the bottom of the motor. crank or cam, i forgot which one, but i believe it was cam. im going to try changing the plugs and wires next and see if that makes a difference. he also listed a weak fuel pump or regulator as a possible culprits since the scans show nothing else wrong other than the cam/crank error.

After replacing the sensor, do you know if a CASE learn was done with the scanner?

- check that the plug wires were put back on in the right order.

- don't cheap out on plug wires. Just the same - don't bother replacing wires again until you check the ones you have with an ohmmeter - just to see that they are not busted somewhere.

- the *crank* sensor is the one on lower passenger side behind the flywheel that you pull off the wheel/fender liner to get to. Cam sensor is elsewhere

- why did you use the Bosch plugs? just curious about your reasons, everyone seems to have different reasons for different plugs.

- fixing this may be as simple as taking the car to a GM dealer who has a TechII and doing the CASE learn. If you replace the cam or crank sensors and don't do the CASE learn... well... the car won't run right for a (long) while.

Albertj

Case learn can accomplished by independent shops using scan tools other than the Tech 2 also.
I did mine with a Snap On tool.

I heard someone saying something about a CASE learn. What exactly is that? Is it programming the computer to read the new sensor?

I used the Bosch plugs because it said that they were some of the more top of the line plugs for the car, and at $9 a pair, I would hope so. Thats until I saw they had the NGK plugs, but I wasnt ready to commit almost $50 for some plugs.

However, on a sour note, the car is on life support! It barely starts, and as soon as it does it sputters and shuts off. I was told that the fuel pump or the fuel filter desperately needs to go by my stepfather and his mechanic brother and son both. They said that that was the reason for it shutting off since the scans showed no more errors with the motor. It had to be a weak fuel pump, that died last night. But on a good note, I went to the pull-it-yourself junkyard a few hours ago and found a 1995 Riviera SC in there with a mint interior. I tried to take the taillight but found out they wanted $45 for it and Im not paying that much. Im taking the SC and the fuel pump, as well as the calipers though.

I got the fuel pump out and installed, but no difference. it still has trouble starting up. Im going to change the fuel filter, plugs and wires out next because I think the rough idle/run might be from just that. After that, Im going to begin making funeral arrangements.

A CASE learn calibrates the cam and crank sensors, but not available for '95. It's a '98 and newer thing, maybe '97s too.

oooh ok. yeah i have a series one so im left out in the cold

My 95 had problems similar to what your describing. I have a actron 9150 scanner and the codes were all over the place. I had quad driver 4 module code? I changed everything and my problem ended up being a coil.
One of the best things I purchased was a subscription to alldatadiy.com $16 for a year i think but it has been a life saver!

Yeah he told me that the likely culprit was the module underneath the coils so we changed that but there was no difference in it too much..im going to have my uncle test out my coils then. they only have 75K on them, but im not taking any chances. i already am planning on changing out plugs this weekend anyways...