FAQ: Rough / Slow / No Start - Symptoms, Causes, Solutions

Do you mean the kit includes the Gasket Maker or a gasket.
You shouldn't use a Gasket, just the anaerobic gasket maker.
If it comes with a gasket throw the gasket away.

If you could give me a link to their site I'd appreciate it as I'd like to buy a kit also and change mine in the future as it is starting to wear and only going to get worse.

OH, sorry bro!

here's the exact kit I bought!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-3800-Buick-Riviera-Regal-GS-Supercharger-Coupler-Kit_W0QQitemZ280439830088QQihZ018QQcategoryZ33741QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

a red tube of gasket "goop" is what comes with it

also everyone, I put a new fuel filter in car and some Heet and have had no starting problems at all...

Now I wonder:

18 gallon tank and the last time I filled up low fuel light was on and I put in 17.2 gallons... I ALSO BOUGHT GAS FROM A BRAND NEW MOM & POP STATION WHICH WAS REFURBISHED. So, could crappy gas from the station along with an almost empty tank clog a filter enough to stop engine cold?

Runs like a top now, just needs s/c coupler

Anybody see that terminal block on RockAuto?

Jack the R wrote:

Anybody see that terminal block on RockAuto?

What terminal block?
Are you talking about the trickle charger or the unit that allows you to disconnect your battery with a flip of the lever for storage.????
The last time I saw one of the battery disconnect devices was in the Eastwood catalog or J.C. Whitney and at Advanced Auto on the shelf, don't know what they cost but I did see them in stock, same thing at NAPA.

The terminal block under the hood. I like Albertj's idea -

albertj wrote:

I was thinking about this some more. Why trash a cable that's perfectly good (the one already in the car) except one end. Duh... so how about installing a positive terminal block under the rear seat somewhere, then get one of those welding crimpers and crimp ring terminals on. One terminal gets crimped onto the end of your old cable (cut the end off and replace with ring terminal) and the other terminal gets crimped onto a 1-foot or so long piece of battery cable. Or just buy a piece of cable around a foot or 18" long with the ring terminals already crimped on? Heck, I bet you can already find a terminal wire with a covered zinc/lead or brass battery connector on one end and a ring terminal on the other, that has 12" or 18" of #2 gauge cable, somewhere. WalMart, an audiophile place, or a marine parts place. Anyway... the other end of that battery cable then has another ring terminal, to which you attach the battery terminal connector via the bolt/wing nut. Or get a battery cable with conventional battery connector on one end and ring terminal on the other. Then you don't have to buy a battery terminal with the stud. Just put ring terminals on those black wires that are now on the positive cable, and connect them to the positive terminal block.

nice and neat...

IF you go to a GM dealer you can get a positive terminal block just like the one under the hood, with cover and everything. GM p/n 25607779. It would be like $11.00 at the dealer, or $6.14 plus from Monster. You may want the nut 11502812 and screw 16516859 also. Or - splurge - go to a full-line hardware store (just about any big Do-It Center) and get stainless steel ones (they are common hardware metric #10 x 1.5).

Get it? old cable gets cut and a new ring terminal goes on the end instead of the terminal that's on it. The other wires off the old terminal just get ring terminals as well, whcih can be crimped on with a hand tool. . They all connect to the terminal block, with POSITIVE silk screened on and everything, that you buy from a GM dealer and install in the battery well. From that terminal block run a single wire to the positive terminal of the battery.

Then wha-la, you are done! Man... why didn't I think of this earlier?

Albertj

Yes, I like that idea also. Will work good for you especially with the Optima battery.
If that is the only OEM part you need then get it from the dealer and avoid shipping cost's.

And I've seen the pre-made cables with ring terminals on the ends or one top post type cable end and a ring terminal on the other end, in various length's and diameter's at Wally World and my local auto parts stores.
Another option for having custom cables made is to go to a shop that fixes lawn mowers, snow blowers, etc. They generally keep different diameter cable in stock with all the various cable ends and can make one up for you.
They will be more expensive than finding a pre-made cable at Wal-Mart or your local auto parts store, but in case your local Wal-Mart doesn't have what you need that's a good alternative.

if you think its the coils, the easiest way to tell is to pul the 2 wires of each individual coil. one coil at a time, and have someone try to start the car. if you see electricity flowing between each tower then that particular coil is good. if not then replace coil. i would also have the icm(ignition control module) tested while you are at it. it is very possible that the cps(crank positioning sensor) was damanged during the harmonic balance transfer. there are no adjustments for the cps. i would reccommend that you have a fuel system clean done on the car. grab 2 cans of sea foam. pour 1/2 into the gas tank and the other 1/2 into the crankcase. then tkae the other can run it thru the vacuum hose from the master cylinder. a couple of parts stores actually sell the cup with the biult in hose to get sucked into the vaccum hose. take a bottle of throttle cleaner(make sure it safe for electrical some are not) and a bottle brush and clean the throttle plate. you will need a set of the snap ring pliers to remove the honeycomb on the throttle. clean the hell out of the plate by opening the plate with the throttle cables. once you have everything done rev the engine up to about 3k on the rpms and watch all the thick white smoke blow out of the tail pipes. i would also consider replace plugs, wires, and pcv. there is a pcv its cover up by a plate the on top of the s/c, should be 2-10mm bolts. you will need a small flathead screwdriver to pull it out.

Natesriv wrote:

also everyone, I put a new fuel filter in car and some Heet and have had no starting problems at all...

Now I wonder:

18 gallon tank and the last time I filled up low fuel light was on and I put in 17.2 gallons... I ALSO BOUGHT GAS FROM A BRAND NEW MOM & POP STATION WHICH WAS REFURBISHED. So, could crappy gas from the station along with an almost empty tank clog a filter enough to stop engine cold?

Runs like a top now, just needs s/c coupler

You mean all the dying, stumbling problems are gone? And didn't the car just get a new fuel filter in the last couple weeks?

If so, my bet is water in the tanks at the 'newly refurbished' gas station, and now you're getting rid of it with the HEET...

wait, pull the plugs and see if it arcs between the posts? Mmmmm....I'll pass on that one

New filter, yes... and it's running just fine.

I did buy a new coupler and I hope that is the cure for the shimmy/shake at idle in drive....

Only thing on that end of car NOT new would be power steering pump...

How hard to change that??

Natesriv wrote:

New filter, yes... and it's running just fine.

I did buy a new coupler and I hope that is the cure for the shimmy/shake at idle in drive....

So it isn't running just fine, you still have the idle problem in gear? I don't want to shoot you down, but the coupler is not the cause. It makes a little noise when the load changes (like when you shut it off) but it weighs nothing and the blower is doing nothing at idle except recirculate (full vacuum = full bypass.)

I could see the belts causing a shudder, but I assume at this point that you've checked all the pulleys and tensioners for good health. Hey guys, could one particular bad mount cause an idle shudder in gear, but not in park?

The steering shudder is a common problem on these cars, and they issued 2 TSB's about it. However, on my car, replacing the pressure hose as directed didn't fix the problem. I had to find another way to reduce it, {LINK}. Perhaps you do have a real funky pump... As far as replacing it, the usual "tight spot" issues may apply, but the main thing is that you have to put the car on stands and take it out the bottom. Except for the two mounting bolts that you hit with a ratchet from the top, it may be easier to get the hoses off from below as well.

Nate,
Have you checked to see if the power steering pump was tightened down properly from when they loosened or removed it last time.
I remember asking you that way back when.
What was it you had the shop do that necessitated the loosening and moving the power steerring pump.?
The Lower pulley, harmonic balancer or water pump. Any one of those requires loosening the power steering pump and moving it out of the way.

I've started collecting parts for this mod -



I found the 2 guage cable at Tractor Supply, but they didn't have the crimping tool

Also, the postive terminal block is a discontinued part, unavailable from the dealer. Anybody want to pull one from a yard? Or should I go through Monster ($10 S&H on a $6 part) or Ed Morad?

Or I could try to find out if there's a yard around here. I don't think there's anything worth bothering with inside a couple hour's driving distance, but maybe I'm wrong.

Morad might be a good idea at least he won't cream you on the shipping. The part might be a buck from a pick & pull.

There are other later model GM cars with the battery not under hood, that probably have a similar terminal block. Plan B or Plan C might be to ask the parts counterman to look one up. I wonder if such a part might show for (for instnace) the 2005 DeVille. Maybe there is a positive terminal block most likely on the frame rail or inner fender, unless they integrated it into the fuse block. I admit I can't find it in GMPD. Also - truthfully - just about any decent (preferably covered) automotive battery junction block will do. The ones for the '60s Camaro are available for about $7.- I am getting the impression that a NAPA or CarQuest could probably provide such a thing for short money.

Good luck

Albertj

BTW once I turn up a terminal block, how do I mount it?

Jack the R wrote:

BTW once I turn up a terminal block, how do I mount it?

In general, sheet metal screws and rustproofing.

The terminal block will have 1 or more holes through the base (I think the OE block we were discussing has 2), you run sheet metal screws thru those into the floorpan, and since it is the floorpan once you are done reach under the car and paint the protruding screws and surrounding metal with rustproofing.

Albertj

Jack the R wrote:

BTW once I turn up a terminal block, how do I mount it?

When you go to NAPA ask them to look in there electrical catalog. Explain what your looking for also. They will let you look thru the book if they don't already know exactly what you want.
Anyway, they probably won't have it in stock but can order for you.
Once you get the terminal block then it will become much more apparent how to install.
If you have any questions once you have it in hand, post some pic's. It will be very easy to figure out the best mounting method.
Probably just going to use some self tapping screws into the floorboard under the rear seat near the Battery, correct.

Edit: I guess i was writing this at the same time Albert was.

NAPA says they don't have anything like a terminal block. Ed Morad doesn't have it either. Any other ideas?

Jack the R wrote:

NAPA says they don't have anything like a terminal block. Ed Morad doesn't have it either. Any other ideas?

One idea is go to a pick & pull and take one off some unsuspecting donor car. '90s and later Buick LeSabre, BMW 5xx and 7xx series, Olds Aurora, I think the Olds Alero too, Pontiac Bonneville are some that come to mind. Some Cadillacs too but I forget which ones.

Albertj

JR,
Do you have a "pick n pull" yard available to you.?

Next time you go to NAPA ask about Napa P/N 782-1143,
It has two connections with recommended wire size of #2-8 and uses a an AMG fuse from 100-300 amps.
Technically its a large fuse holder but might provide the type of connector your looking for with fuse protection.
I'm looking at it in a catalog they gave me that is dated for 2008. The part should still be available.
You just need to look at it and determine if it will serve your needs.
Do you just need something to provide a battery connection near your Battery using one cable on each end or even two cables on one end.? If so, this may do what you want.

I picked up my hammer-style crimper from Fastenal today. The box says made in Mexico, but it has China stamped on the crimper. Never seen that before.

Rick - Nope. No Pick n Pull stores in Ky or TN.

I don't think there are any yards in the county at all.

There used to be one a county over - gonna burn more gas than what the part's worth to get it.

I added some stuff to my last post. And added an image from the catalog of the fuse holder below.
Not the best image, but the best I could with my crappy scanner.
BTW, how much did Fastenal charge you for that hammer type crimper.?
I can try and get you the terminal block if I'm clear on what you need.
Refresh my memory.

See Below for Fuse Holder

It took me a bit to remember how to do this.

The only problem i can possibly see with this is what size are the terminal studs.
Should be OK though based on the specs of accepting a #2-8 AWG connector